Alright, I am about to begin ordering my bolt-ons for a small build-up over winter. I plan on getting the following:

Mac mid-length headers with offroad y-pipe
Hooker Aerochamber Cat-back
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers
Summit Electric Water Pump
Intake Elbow (stock one is torn etc..)
2800 Stall Torque Converter (recomendations?)
Better tires
Hotchkis 1" Lowering Springs
Hotchkis Front and rear sway bars (1 7/8". 1" respectively)
Subframe Connecters (BMR?)

I think that will be it for this winter, and should net me mid to low 13's I hope. What do you guys think?

 

An electric waterpump isn't really a power adding mod, so do that only if you think you need it for some reason or another.

Also keep in mind that if a mechanical (stock) pump fails, it may leak, but it will still turn and get you home more or less safely if needed, but if an electric one fails (and they do fail) you're screwed. If you don't find out quick enough, it can get really nasty. Now this is not to discourage you from purchasing one, but just to let you know of some of its downsides.

As for the stall, don't waste your money on cheap brands or restalled stockers. An example of a good one would be a 2800 Precision Industries Vigilante stall. You will also need a transmission cooler for it.

Everything else looks good. (if that's what you want to do )

 

you should be in the 12's...first of all id get a stall 3000 or over and why are you getting roller rockers but no cam

 

If you're going with an off-road Y, you might as well just get longtubes. If cost is an issue, skip the waterpump and roller rockers until (or if) you do a more aggresive cam. I would hate to do a water pump and then decide a year down the road to do a cam. Too much extra work.

 

Good point Brian. I would definately do the rrs though. I picked up 3-4 mph in the 1/4 from my rockers. I was definately surprised.

 

I would also reccomend a tune from Madwolf. He does excellent work, and my car is proof of that.

 

I have been kind of iffy on the EWP, and I think I will probably forego it for now. As for the off-road pipe, I can switch in a catted y-pipe later when emissions roll around, don't think longtubes can be done emission legals on dual cat cars (stock location on cats..?) Plus from what I have seen the Mac's give great results, and I have also considered the SLP shorty's. Now that I think about it, I may just do heads and cam this winter, what do you guys think of LE1 heads with a 224/230 cam and 1.6 rr's. I am working on a deal with someone for Hooker LT's and y-pipe for my car for cheap, I may just go with that for the great price. We will see...

 

Didn't see it but a CAI is a good starting point....

 

Id forget the water pump, and if you dont have cold air definitly add that to the list in place of the water pump. Keep the rockers on the list, thats definitly worth while even without a cam. A simple program from pcmforless will help a bit, and if your getting subframes get the Kenny Brown Double Diamond, best ones on the market, only thing comparable are the SLP subframes of similar design. And while your definitly adding a lot of power i dont think youll make it to the 12s. Low 13s is probably what you will see. Another bolt on or two will get you in the 12s.

 

What do you mean you won't gain from a Electric Water Pump? There's 10 rwhp untapped there. That's a signifigant gain. Now is it worth the risk on a daily driver that's a judgement call.

 

EWP's aren't as 'tride and true' as the stock mechanical WP's are. he can make those gains somewhere else and save himself the hassle of having to replace the EWP every couple years. That and you can pick up a refurb stock replacement WP with a lifetime warranty for $110 at OReilly's. Put it in and forget out it.

 

Assuming you have already done the cheap ( free ) mods then a shift kit is cheap and actually better in the long run. Strut tower braces are also alot more effective than people think. PCM4less ecu tuning is also a relatively cheap and effective mod and will prove to be better for MPG.