Ok, I have made no changes to my car and now all of a sudden It keeps blowing the 10 amp ignition fuse, It gives me no warning, the car just shuts off will driving down the road . I have checked the ground wires, and every thing related to power, I still at loss.

anyone have any Ideas?

 

It could be your coil or the ignition control module right next to it, or you just have a cut wire that's shorting. Here's a schematic from shoebox's site. http://shbox.com/1/95_ign_system_schematic.jpg

 

Well I have changed both of those. So now I'm going to have to go wire hunting

 

Just to be clear, you are talking about the ignition fuse under the hood, correct?

 

yep, the one under the hood, the 10 amp .

 

The crank position sensor is also on that fuse.

 

I'll check, I just did an OBD1 conversion and I thought that it doesn't look for that sensor? I noticed last night that it was pretty dirty with oil grime.

Hey shoe box, you would happen to know where I can get an A4 4l60e exploded view and diagram?

 

Ok, well I checked the wiring on the ICM, Coil, and crank sensor wiring from starter and nothign was burnt or melted. They all look good, I followed the wire ( pink) for this fuse out of the fuse box it runs back into the car under the dash, What else should I look at?

This is confusing me because it was fine up until I did an OBD 1 conversion. I also has my A/F gauge hooked to theleft O2 wire there and broke the O2 wire but that was fixed and sending asignal to the pcm. Datamaster proved it.

Any other suggestions on why this fuse keeps blowing?

 

The first thing to do is unplug the coil, the ICM and the CKP if it isn't already. Now check for too much current draw. If you are tired of blowing and replacing fuses, use the DVM as an amp meter in the fuse pocket. BE AWARE that the meters internal fuse is only good for up to 10 amps so you chance blowing the fuse in the meter if the current draw is over 10 amps.

If the problem goes away, you know one of the 3 items is bad. If the problem remains, disconnect c100. It's the black 10 pin connector located near the PCM. If the problem now goes away, the problem is a shorted wire somewhere between the connector and the 3 devices.

If the problem still remains, then there is a shorted wire between the fuse panel and the connector.

Hope that helps.

 

Ok, I have an idea on why this fuse keeps blowing??? I did the OBD1 conversion then this started happening, I have replaced the ICM and coil the last line off that fuse is the Crank sensor. Since the pcm doesn't read it on a OBD1 can this cause a short or power surge to blow this fuse. Will it hurt to disconnect it all together?

 

Just disconnect the crank sensor connector. It's not needed on OBD-I.

The DVM (digital volt meter) you borrowed from me doesn't have an Amperage setting. So mine will not work for that testing phase.

 

Ok, I'm getting tired of this blowing fuse issue!!!! Ok the icm, coil are new connectors and wires have been inspected and show on problems I have disconnected the crank senor, still blows fuses. I have even put a 25 ampfuse in and it blows that. It doesn't blow constintly, it blows twice with in 1/2 an hour then will be ok for a few days.


Does any one have any clue on this? could a bad 1-2 shift solenoid be the problem or VSS sensor? I have these codes and a service engine light is out. I'm just thinking of any thing at this point.

 

Did you do as I suggested above with the connector? Just looking at the wires on the 3 components means nothing. A short to ground can occur anywhere along the length of the wire. However, I understand that this is an intermittent problem and hard to find when it doesn't occur regularly.

Also try this, with the fuse out, find the side of the fuse contact that has 12 volts. Now put the meter lead on the other side of the fuse contact. Set the meter to ohms or buzz is even better. Ground the other meter lead. Now wiggle the wires from the underhood fuse panel all the way to each device. Your looking for when the readings change when you wiggle it or buzzing changes. Remember, don't put the lead on the side of the fuse contacts that has 12 volts.

 

Ok, I can get a meter to try that. I have been searching wiring diagrams looking for anything that cross paths with this F'n pick power wire.!!