Best Subframe connectors
Registered User
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,647
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Originally posted by blown383
From the looks of the Sybersport.com SFCs...you're gonna lose A LOT of ground clearance...as for DD SFCs interfearing with long tubes I don't think it would matter much other than losing even more ground clearance once you have a y-pipe fabricated.
-B
From the looks of the Sybersport.com SFCs...you're gonna lose A LOT of ground clearance...as for DD SFCs interfearing with long tubes I don't think it would matter much other than losing even more ground clearance once you have a y-pipe fabricated.
-B
Here's a pic
I have them on my car with Hooker Long Tubes and True Duals. They fit fine. I didn't lose any ground clearance and you can barely see them under the car. My exhaust is lower.
I also picked up some Spohn LCAs and Relocation brackets from sypersport.com. Awesome pricing.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 10
From: Concord, NH
I'd have to recomend the SLP's. Put mine in a couple of weeks ago with a BMR STB and WOW what a difference. I bought the bolt ins and everything went together real easy. I would go with the weld in SFC instead of the bolt in because I'm going to have mine welded anyway.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 986
From: texas
I ordered them from bmr's website... http://www.bmrfabrication.com. I called them and placed my order. their # is on their site under contact info. ordered on the 24th, received it today, the 29th.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 309
From: Chicago Area
Originally posted by unTAmedLS1
Gripenfelter your homepage has more pop ups then a porno.
Gripenfelter your homepage has more pop ups then a porno.
Content: My kbdd sfc's did make a big difference. Looking at the design though, I wonder how stiffer it would be if the weld could go the entire length of the sill vs. just a small part at the front and back.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 1998
Posts: 1,384
From: Los Angeles, CA
I'm talking about the specticle solutions DD SFCs...they look like they make you lose
1.5-2 inches!!!!!!
-B
1.5-2 inches!!!!!!
-B
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,309
From: sebewaing, mi
Originally posted by 96SS#1156
You should always do your chasis stuff first. Build the car around a solid foundation, that way you don't end up twisting the car beyond safe. These cars flex a hole bunch. The guys that have SFC's will tell you that they make a HUGE difference. Strut tower braces also work very well the SFC's too. When building race cars, I always do the chasis work first then move on to the rest. Just my .02 worth.
You should always do your chasis stuff first. Build the car around a solid foundation, that way you don't end up twisting the car beyond safe. These cars flex a hole bunch. The guys that have SFC's will tell you that they make a HUGE difference. Strut tower braces also work very well the SFC's too. When building race cars, I always do the chasis work first then move on to the rest. Just my .02 worth.
my car has a stock motor, replaced the rear, beefed the torque arm, control arm, sfc, and panhard are next before the cam is installed.
i plan to fab mine, just buy some square tube and weld it in yourself!!!
do strut tower braces really help much?
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 190
From: Long Island, NY
Anyone have and experence with the Hotchkis SFC's? They are already installed on a car I bought but the motor isn't ready yet so I have not driven the car yet. These are the ones installed in it now:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
Thanks,
Rob A.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...57#largerimage
Thanks,
Rob A.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 646
From: West Palm Beach, FL
I got the boxed BMRs. I like them a lot.
Here's a pic. They fit real good.
Here's a pic. They fit real good.
