I'd do some go-fast stuff before the SFCs. Not really crankin' enought HP/TQ to worry about chasis/body damage from lack of SFCs. But, that's just my opinion.

 

Anyone know if the double diamond kind will fit with longtubes and dual exhaust?

FYI, there's a guy on ebay that sells the SLP for $179 I believe.. if I get dd's I'll definately be getting them from this guy.

 

why not save yourself some money and just get a couple steel square pieces of metal that fit and weld them in. Any metal shop would have that. That's what my dad did on his '71 camaro.

 

I have Double Diamonds from www.sybersport.com. Email Darren at info@sybersport.com and he will get you the best price on them. Tell him Grip sent you.

Much cheaper than SLP or Kenny Brown and same high quality.

 

Some of you may or may not be interested, but Spectacle Solutions has DD SFCs for a resonable price. I spoke with the owner a year or so ago at a F-body meet and he was a real nice guy. I have never seen any of these SFCs in person, but you can go to the WTFBA site and post in the forums for input. There are some guys over there that have them.

 

Can you run triangulars with long tube headers? I have never seen undercar photos of these two combined.

 

I did a T-top conversion and holy crap! So many rattles and so much flex!!

 

The double diamond SFCs from Sybersport.com helped alot and made me stiffer than when I was a hardtop.

Night and day difference.

You feel more confident driving your car. Especially if you have alot of torque.

 

From the looks of the Sybersport.com SFCs...you're gonna lose A LOT of ground clearance...as for DD SFCs interfearing with long tubes I don't think it would matter much other than losing even more ground clearance once you have a y-pipe fabricated.

-B

 

I don't agree at all. SFCs are one of the first mods I would do. They make a big difference.

 

Yea, upon further thought, there's nothing like a nice stiff slow Camaro for the Mustang boys to pick on That, and I forget that I bought a hardtop for that reason...and most everyone else overlooks that for the luxury of Ttops. I wouldn't take a T-top car down the strip (or atleast not LAUNCH it) without SFCs though.

 

Why not? I used to have a 91 Formula that ran 7.9s in the 1/8th(no 1/4 mile track in the area) on slicks with spray. It started life as a hardtop, but had t-tops put in by a previous owner. I didn't have SFCs and had no problems. Not that I'm downing SFCs or anything, they'll actually be my next mod, but it's not that big of a deal to run a t-top or vert car without them.

 

I just know with all the dash and console rattle (not to mention rear deck and doors) I get now...warping just enough to get the T-tops going would drive me batty. I mean, I've got friends that run their T-top 4th Gens all the time. Me, I'd be a little easier on that thing until I had some assurance of stiffness.

My hardtop car? Screw it...SFCs are on the "to do" list, but there's plenty of ET-trimmin' mods before that. I think after the valvtrain, gears and cam I'll probably move to chasis and suspension. Want SFCs, Chromoly LCAs, and tubular Kmember.

 

You should always do your chasis stuff first. Build the car around a solid foundation, that way you don't end up twisting the car beyond safe. These cars flex a hole bunch. The guys that have SFC's will tell you that they make a HUGE difference. Strut tower braces also work very well the SFC's too. When building race cars, I always do the chasis work first then move on to the rest. Just my .02 worth.

 

speakin of SFCs, just received the BMR boxed SFCs today. feel like a nice strong design. looks good on my couch, need to get them welded in sometime.