Several manufacturers are now breaking in with synthetic oil. 2 vehicles that come to mind are the corvette and the viper. The previous problems of rolling the asparities instead of sheering them off has been eliminated. ALL engines breaking in will show metal in the oil. It's simply a matter of how much metal.

 

I used conventional pennzoil 10w40 for the first 300 miles (easy driving). Oil came out clean and there was no metal on the plug. I filled it back up with Mobil 1 10w30 because that's what everyone recommends. Then I waited till the end of the summer (about 1500 miles - with hard driving), when I drained the oil, there were pretty large metal shavings on my plug as well as a film of greyish magnetic stuff. This had me alarmed so I switched back to conventional beginning of this summer. Drianed it at the end of the summer and oil and plug were clean, so I drew to the conclusion that I should stick to conventional pennzoil.

But now I'm having second thoughts about the pennzoil since you guys are saying it's not the best choice. Furthermore I don't want my motor to look like this in a while...
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...light=dirtiest

 

My only comment about Pennzoil is that on my old '92 Ranger, I have run Pennzoil 10W-30 and Purolator filters exclusively for 358,000 miles and have never been into the engine yet. Three water pumps, three clutches and two transmissions, but the motor keeps on running, it even has the original timing chain. I am kind of **** about the oil changes, I never go past 3,000 miles.

Chris

 

I ran Castrol GTX 10-30 for about 3 or so oil changes in my LT1 Camaro, then I switched to Royal Purple 10-30 with about 80K on the clock.

 

what thickness do you guys reccomend like for a castrol gtx? 0w-30? 5w-30? 10w-30? this is for a non winter car in MA

 

I have always liked 10-30, unless you live in a really cold environment I don't see the point in running a thinner base oil.

 

Castrol GTX works great for me