I can't tell if I have a lifter (or lifters) that are collapsing but no matter how much/frequently I adjust my lash (zero lash plus a quarter turn), the engine just sounds noisy and the idle sounds... well *off*, not smooth....
I'm going to replace all the rockers with the new ultra Pro Mags (1.6 ratio, 7/16th stud) and put in some new, high quality, hydraulic roller lifters. Last time, I put in CC OEM replacements, but my machinist said the valve stem tips looked 'beat up' as he put it. When I pressed him on what could cause that, he felt like the lash was excessive while the motor was running. I've always kept the lash set the tried and true way but this setup, since I installed it, seems profoundly noisy. I've seen various posts thru the years that seemed to deem this lifter good and that lifter bad. What's the latest n' greatest?

 

I think if you're on a budget, the LS7s can't be beat. I'm running them in my 383 with great results. Hums like a sewing machine. Howards and Morel make high-end lifters, but it's doubtful you need something that overkill.

 

Thanks! I'll have a look at them.
UPDATE: Just ordered a set from ThunderRacing.

 

With a hydraulic cam "beat up" valve tips is from valve float because there is no lash there is preload, if it finds clearance for lash it did so when the valvetyrain seperated during float. On a solid it is excessive lash or valve float.


How do you find "zero" lash?

 

+1 on the LS7's. That's what I use.

 

LS7 lifters are now the standard GM replacements for all LT and LS engines...the other numbers have been discontinued.

 

I had the engine on a engine stand.

• Rotated the crank until a targetted valve was at full lift. Put a piece of tape on the Harmonic Balancer next to my pointer(bolted to the place where the air pump used to be)
• Rotated the crank one time till the taped point was again on the pointer. This put the cam on the middle of the base circle.
• Making sure the setscrew was loose, used my thumb and forefinger of my right hand to slowly tighten the rocker arm nut whilst twirling the pushrod for that valve with my thumb and forefinger of my left hand until I felt 'resistance'.
• I'd back the nut up a little and finger tighten it again until the resistance to pushrod rotation was again felt.
• I then took my 5/8th socket and rotated it tighter by a 1/4 turn.
• I then tightened the Allen set screw till it was fully tight.
• I placed a 5/8ths box end on the nut, put the Allen wrench in the set screw, pulled tension on the Allen wrench with my left hand then pulled the 5/8ths box end fully tight. This results in about anywhere from another 1/32 to 1/16th turn.
• repeat on the remaining 15 valves.

I've set the valves like this with the motor in and out of the car since I first put in my first mod (LT4 1.6 Roller Rockers) in 1997. It could be these rocker arms (CC ProMags) as well as the lifters. I'm going to do both (lifters and Rockers) at the same time.

 

"spin the pushrod" almost always ends up too tight. Bauer's valvetrain is usually either on the ragged edge of not working or outright floating right out of the box. Too tight a preload like you endup with with the "spin the pushrod" method makes the valve bounce even further off the seat than it would have with looser preload. I know you don't want to believe Bauer is anything but godlike but reality is the issues are well documented and blindly defending you mistake wont let you see it.

Zero lash is when the polylock hit the rocker trunnion. To confirm move the pushrod inline between the lifter and rocker while tightening the polylock by hand. Movement will stop when the polylock hits.

I am sure you will offended by my comments about your choice in valvetrain designer but read the rest of the post, I am genuinely trying to help.

 

Dwayne - no offense. I'm willing to try anything to get this resolved. When the polylock hits the trunion(I assume you mean the pushrod can't be articulated up and down any/all slack is gone?) and I tighten it down another quarter inch, on *most* valves there is resistance to my tightening the polylock. But there is usually anywhere from 1 or more (different motors) where it feels like there's no resistance to the tightening at all. Those ones are the ones that make me wonder if I have a sloppy/collapsed lifter. Do you know what I mean? The regular ones feel like I'm compressing the oil in the lifter but it's bleeding out while the other one feels like it doesn't have any oil in it. Odd... I'll try your method again when I go home and let you know what I find.

 

Got the lifters and Rocker arms today...
I'll install them tomorrow.