Even better, LG Motorsports I know carries the Dynatech LT with 1-7/8" primaries for only about $50 more than the 1-3/4".

 

AS&M all the way. THey come with the HPC coating (the best) and it comes with a Y-pipe coated inside and out as well. 1 3/4" primaries, mid length, and best of all, in a dyno test that broke 900HP, Fred said the AS&M headers outflowed the Hooker LT's by 40+ HP.until 900HP

Of course, the conditions and mods on each engine were different but worst case scenario one would ahve to assume that with 2 motors that can break the 900HP barrier, that the AS&M outflowed hooker's by at least 15HP up to 900.

 

Wheres the best place to get Dynatechs? I won't lose any ground clearance with them? How much would you lose with Hooker Full lengths?

 

Why does everyone knock 1 5/8" shorty headers? The winner of the GM High-Tech Performance Magazine's LT1 bolt-on shootout (January, 2003) was running Edelbrock shorties, 1.6 RR's, an off-road pipe and Flowmaster exhaust. He posted a 12.42 ET at 108.8 MPH, .24 seconds and almost 4 mph better than his closest competitor, (My aplologies if this post looks familiar - I posted almost the same reply in another thread asking for info on the "best headers"). If trap speed is a good indicator of power, then the oft-maligned Edelbrock shorties must be making good power on a bolt-on LT1. I have read numerous SBC build-up articles where 1 5/8" headers produced equal or only slightly less power than their 1 3/4" or 1 7/8" cousins. Also, Edlebrock, JBA and Hooker shorties are CARB approved - no need to bribe your local emissions inspector and no hassles when trying to sell your car.

 

I got mine used off the fS section luckily
hardly anyone sells their longtubes

I know combo motor sports carries or can get just about anything. I bet if you told them you were from Cz28.com they'd get it for ya.

I hacn't seen other places carry them.
One thing- no emissions hookups.
If you want that, get FLP.
They come with o2 bungs, AIR and egr fittings and maybe even cats

 

The absolute best header for ground clearance is: CUSTOM MADE ONES.

 

Actually according to Jegs about 3 months ago, the LT1 1 7/8's Dynatechs never made it to production. You can buy the LT1 Dynatech 1 3/4s from Jegs.
If the winner of the LT1 Shootout went that fast on 1 5/8s shorties, he probably would have gone a tenth if not 2 better if he was running long tubes. I'm not gonna sit here and listen to people tell me what they read in magazines that worked. I've been around dynos and at the tracks enough to know what works, what doesn't work, and what just works better. If carb emissions is a factor, then obviously you have to do what you have to do; but 90% of magazine articles that talk about using 1 5/8s headers point out that they're doing that to preserve low-end torque and that they want torque not necessarily hp. I've got a 3,000 stall and a cam that doesn't make power till 3K rpms. What do I want low-end torque for? My stall and 3.73s cause enough torque multiplication as it is for me to obliterate the tires through 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd gear if I just stand on it from a stop. So I'll give up 5 ft./lbs. under 2K rpms to make 20 more hp from 5800-6400rpms.
Stick a set of 1 5/8s up to the stock exhaust gasket. The exhaust gasket and the exhaust port on the head are much larger than the 1 5/8s opening. Specifically, in the case of the BBK/Edelbrocks, the welds on the inner flange choke it down to almost 1 1/2" and the shape of the flange doens't even match the LT1. I used a precision welding tip to put weld around the outside of my BBK flanges, then ground away the splatter-nasty factory ones on the inside and picked up 20cfm on U.C.F.s engine optimization flow-bench!!!!

 

Actually according to Jegs about 3 months ago, the LT1 1 7/8's Dynatechs never made it to production. You can buy the LT1 Dynatech 1 3/4s from Jegs.
If the winner of the LT1 Shootout went that fast on 1 5/8s shorties, he probably would have gone a tenth if not 2 better if he was running long tubes. I'm not gonna sit here and listen to people tell me what they read in magazines that worked. I've been around dynos and at the tracks enough to know what works, what doesn't work, and what just works better. If carb emissions is a factor, then obviously you have to do what you have to do; but 90% of magazine articles that talk about using 1 5/8s headers point out that they're doing that to preserve low-end torque and that they want torque not necessarily hp. I've got a 3,000 stall and a cam that doesn't make power till 3K rpms. What do I want low-end torque for? My stall and 3.73s cause enough torque multiplication as it is for me to obliterate the tires through 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd gear if I just stand on it from a stop. So I'll give up 5 ft./lbs. under 2K rpms to make 20 more hp from 5800-6400rpms.
Stick a set of 1 5/8s up to the stock exhaust gasket. The exhaust gasket and the exhaust port on the head are much larger than the 1 5/8s opening. Specifically, in the case of the BBK/Edelbrocks, the welds on the inner flange choke it down to almost 1 1/2" and the shape of the flange doens't even match the LT1. I used a precision welding tip to put weld around the outside of my BBK flanges, then ground away the splatter-nasty factory ones on the inside and picked up 20cfm on U.C.F.s engine optimization flow-bench!!!!

 

Actually according to Jegs about 3 months ago, the LT1 1 7/8's Dynatechs never made it to production. You can buy the LT1 Dynatech 1 3/4s from Jegs.
If the winner of the LT1 Shootout went that fast on 1 5/8s shorties, he probably would have gone a tenth if not 2 better if he was running long tubes. I'm not gonna sit here and listen to people tell me what they read in magazines that worked. I've been around dynos and at the tracks enough to know what works, what doesn't work, and what just works better. If carb emissions is a factor, then obviously you have to do what you have to do; but 90% of magazine articles that talk about using 1 5/8s headers point out that they're doing that to preserve low-end torque and that they want torque not necessarily hp. I've got a 3,000 stall and a cam that doesn't make power till 3K rpms. What do I want low-end torque for? My stall and 3.73s cause enough torque multiplication as it is for me to obliterate the tires through 1st, 2nd and part of 3rd gear if I just stand on it from a stop. So I'll give up 5 ft./lbs. under 2K rpms to make 20 more hp from 5800-6400rpms.
Stick a set of 1 5/8s up to the stock exhaust gasket. The exhaust gasket and the exhaust port on the head are much larger than the 1 5/8s opening. Specifically, in the case of the BBK/Edelbrocks, the welds on the inner flange choke it down to almost 1 1/2" and the shape of the flange doens't even match the LT1. I used a precision welding tip to put weld around the outside of my BBK flanges, then ground away the splatter-nasty factory ones on the inside and picked up 20cfm on U.C.F.s engine optimization flow-bench!!!!