Best headers that don't restrict ground clearance?
Best headers that don't restrict ground clearance?
MACS perhaps? I wanna do a cam and headers before spring breaks, but i don't wanna sacrifice ground clearance in case i lower it. Also, past the new headers, what is the new exhaust layout? If i do go with MACS, do i then get their y-pipe setup too or does someone else have a better one? Thanks
Simple, Hooker LTs and a 2-inch lift!!! J/k. Take my advice if you're doing a head/cam swap or you'll regret it. DO NOT get 1 5/8" shorties. I believe that includes BBK/Edelbrocks and MACs. They simply can't flow what your motor needs. I believe ligenfelter makes a nice tri-y mid-length header. Also, though expensive, I hear the Arizona Speed & Marine Long tubes actually have great ground clearance. If you want maximum flow, I'd go the extra step of converting to an LS1-style y-pipe and catback. This y- converges a lot farther back allowing more optimal flow where it's critical. Most companies w/ mid-length and shorties provide you w/ a y-pipe. If you get shorties that have their collector in the same position as the factory manifolds did, Borla makes a good ypipe as well as SLP. On that note SLPs seem to have great flow but are pricey. The benefit, Stainless Steel!!!
My AS&M's have no trouble with ground clearance and my car was lowered from SLP due to the Bilstein suspension. I also have the Random Tech Y pipe with High flow cats. It is a pricey, but great setup.
Originally posted by 94SLUG
No LTS only shorties or Mids. I agree do not get 1 5/8. 1 3/4 and which make flows and installs the best. I think in summit they have hooker shorties 1 3/4.
No LTS only shorties or Mids. I agree do not get 1 5/8. 1 3/4 and which make flows and installs the best. I think in summit they have hooker shorties 1 3/4.
why not LT's?
why not 1 5/8?
I lost ZERO (yes like the number between -1 and 1) ground clearance with my dynatech long tubes
they sound great and flow well too
13.2@106 with them, catback and gears
Originally posted by shoebox
Personally, I don't think you need 1 3/4 headers unless you have had head work done. Just MHO.
Personally, I don't think you need 1 3/4 headers unless you have had head work done. Just MHO.
untill they make a cure for the mod buy- why not
?more seriously, someone on the corvette forums did a before and after dyno.
His bottom end was the same (+-5hp) and after 3500rpms his power gains were pretty nice

JMO though
our exhuast ports realy realy realy suck ***
I have heard good things about the Dynatech's so far as clearance and performace but nightmares about fit/install; of course you hear that about all headers when they first come out. Thats is what led me to the AS&M/RT setup. No ground clearance issues, lots of previous experience, coated inside and out, and GENERAL agreement that they simply put out the most HP of anything short of long tubes put me into these despite the price. Open them up right at the Y-pipe like I did (straight part of the cutout going out, ypart going to the rest of the system) and it sounds like a nascar stocker, simply the deepest, throatiest sound I have ever heard come out of a car. I have a pre install dyno, I get a post this spring.
Originally posted by treyZ28
They way I look at it-
untill they make a cure for the mod buy- why not
?
more seriously, someone on the corvette forums did a before and after dyno.
His bottom end was the same (+-5hp) and after 3500rpms his power gains were pretty nice
JMO though
our exhuast ports realy realy realy suck ***
They way I look at it-
untill they make a cure for the mod buy- why not
?more seriously, someone on the corvette forums did a before and after dyno.
His bottom end was the same (+-5hp) and after 3500rpms his power gains were pretty nice

JMO though
our exhuast ports realy realy realy suck ***
Personally, I don't think you need 1 3/4 headers over 1 5/8 headers unless you have had head work done. Just MHO.
Originally posted by SSTAT
I have heard good things about the Dynatech's so far as clearance and performace but nightmares about fit/install; of course you hear that about all headers when they first come out. Thats is what led me to the AS&M/RT setup. No ground clearance issues, lots of previous experience, coated inside and out, and GENERAL agreement that they simply put out the most HP of anything short of long tubes put me into these despite the price. Open them up right at the Y-pipe like I did (straight part of the cutout going out, ypart going to the rest of the system) and it sounds like a nascar stocker, simply the deepest, throatiest sound I have ever heard come out of a car. I have a pre install dyno, I get a post this spring.
I have heard good things about the Dynatech's so far as clearance and performace but nightmares about fit/install; of course you hear that about all headers when they first come out. Thats is what led me to the AS&M/RT setup. No ground clearance issues, lots of previous experience, coated inside and out, and GENERAL agreement that they simply put out the most HP of anything short of long tubes put me into these despite the price. Open them up right at the Y-pipe like I did (straight part of the cutout going out, ypart going to the rest of the system) and it sounds like a nascar stocker, simply the deepest, throatiest sound I have ever heard come out of a car. I have a pre install dyno, I get a post this spring.
Much easier than some shorty headers i tried to install.
Slipped RIGHT in from the bottom
My BBK 1 5/8s yielded NO gains at the track. That was in better conditions w/ drag radials on so that there was no issue of consistency. I went 12.87 in 75 degree humid weather w/ the logs and 12.90 w/ the headers, y-pipe, cat-deleted and a retune. 1 5/8s are too small to offer a good transition at the head. Why buy 1 5/8s when 1 3/4s are much more expensive. As for those of you that think you don't need 1 3/4s w/out headwork. Explain internally stock cars picking up 15-20 rwhp w/ Hooker LTs.....yet even dyno shops will tell you that most 1 5/8s shorties barely outflow the stock logs until you get into the 350rwhp area. Then its only marginally better.
Bottom line, go w/ 1 5/8s and you'll regret it down the road. Get 1 3/4s and they'll suit you now, suit you later and won't cost you much more at all.
Bottom line, go w/ 1 5/8s and you'll regret it down the road. Get 1 3/4s and they'll suit you now, suit you later and won't cost you much more at all.
Originally posted by LT1Brutus
My BBK 1 5/8s yielded NO gains at the track. That was in better conditions w/ drag radials on so that there was no issue of consistency. I went 12.87 in 75 degree humid weather w/ the logs and 12.90 w/ the headers, y-pipe, cat-deleted and a retune. 1 5/8s are too small to offer a good transition at the head. Why buy 1 5/8s when 1 3/4s are much more expensive. As for those of you that think you don't need 1 3/4s w/out headwork. Explain internally stock cars picking up 15-20 rwhp w/ Hooker LTs.....yet even dyno shops will tell you that most 1 5/8s shorties barely outflow the stock logs until you get into the 350rwhp area. Then its only marginally better.
Bottom line, go w/ 1 5/8s and you'll regret it down the road. Get 1 3/4s and they'll suit you now, suit you later and won't cost you much more at all.
My BBK 1 5/8s yielded NO gains at the track. That was in better conditions w/ drag radials on so that there was no issue of consistency. I went 12.87 in 75 degree humid weather w/ the logs and 12.90 w/ the headers, y-pipe, cat-deleted and a retune. 1 5/8s are too small to offer a good transition at the head. Why buy 1 5/8s when 1 3/4s are much more expensive. As for those of you that think you don't need 1 3/4s w/out headwork. Explain internally stock cars picking up 15-20 rwhp w/ Hooker LTs.....yet even dyno shops will tell you that most 1 5/8s shorties barely outflow the stock logs until you get into the 350rwhp area. Then its only marginally better.
Bottom line, go w/ 1 5/8s and you'll regret it down the road. Get 1 3/4s and they'll suit you now, suit you later and won't cost you much more at all.
YOU CAN GET A SET OF MAC'S FROM ls1speed.com FOR 389.00 AND HAVE THEM JET COATED FOR $160.00 BUT THEY COME WITH A HIGH TEMP SILVER COATING ALREADY THAT WORKS GOOD AND SHOULD LAST A WHILE, BUT JET COATING IS BETTER IF YOU GOT THE $$$$$$.


