What do you suggest? I'm using long tubes...not sure if I want to use ARP with those little clips. Almost everyone I know that has them never ends up getting all the clips on.

What else is good?

 

I use the Stage 8 locking bolts and was able to get all the clips on. You need to dremel some of the clips down to make them fit. Just depends on the headers.

I would recommend using the Stage 8's. I was using only the ARP 3/4" bolts and on my passenger side they would constantly come out. On one trip I lost three bolts and quickly switched to the locking Stage 8 bolt. No problems now.

On my drivers side I still have the ARP bolts in and they work fine. Every 6 months or so I give them a quick tightening. No leaks at all on the drivers side.

 

I second the Stage 8's with locking clips. Just like norcalstreet said you will have to file or dremel some of the clips depending on the orientation of the bolt when it is fully tightened. The clips are aluminum so they file very easily. These are what I am using. Another benefit is the allen key on the inside, it makes it very easy to get at.

 

Have you guys seen the split lock bolts? I think I am going to try a set of them. s/s set runs $58...no clips...looks fairly straightforward.

http://www.go-breslin.com/Splitlock.html

 

Yes, the allen key was a life saver for the bolt on the very rear of the header plus it makes it easier to tighten them when you have limited space. If you strip the bolt you can still tighten it with the allen key. Even if you don't use the clips it's worth using the Stage 8 bolts alone simply because of this feature.

 

Yeah, you buy em and let us know how they work.
I think the idea is solid but just remember you can,t tighten the bolt itself with the allen head, it is just for locking the bolt in place.
I too saved some time and curse words with the allen heads on my Stage 8s, and no I did not get all my little clips on either, 2 of them I just did not feel like messin with and checking 2 bolts every once in a while versus 12 will save some time.

 

stage 8. grind the retainers down a bit and they slide right on. i can have all the clips on in an hour.

 

I am also runninf Stage 8 bolts and I love them... I also got all of the clips on all I did was use a pair of side cutters to modify some of them slightly and they work out great.. might I also add.. you may want to put some type of copper grease or high temp anti-seeze on them.. just incase you ever need to take them off again.

 

Damn, how much are you people spending on bolts?!?!?! I bought a $3.99 set of header bolts from autozone. 3/8 by 16 thread with a 7/16 hex head. Absolutely no problems at all. I put some orange high temp RTV on the exhaust gasket, torqued the bolts down pretty tight and have had no problems.

John

 

I used a 2" stainless allen bolt with a 1" brass sleeve.
Works excellent, looks good, and are very easy access to tighten.
Kevin

 

I bought the cheap ones from autozone because jegs told me to only get 3/4" arp's. Because my copper gasket crush area didn't overlap with the primary i overtighted one trying to get rid of the leak. It broke, my fault though. I also used grade 5 3/8x16x1" 7/16 allen head bolts from the hardware store because the regular headed bolts were too close to the SLP primaries. Grade 5 is plenty of bolt for a header.

 

Stage 8
#8911 are 3/4" long are ones I use

#8911-A are 1" long

gonna pick up #8950 for collector bolts

 

I was wondering why everyone was having to grind on the locks on the stage 8s.Im guessing bigger primaries. I got all mine on no grinding. I had to turn the bolt a 1/4 turn on some of them. Also if you flip the lock alot of times it will fit. The hex in the lock is turned a little compared to the side. Im using slp shorties. I had to use some needle nose pliars that have the angled jaws to get some of the c-clips on.

Brad