If the bumper is still bolted in then you will not be able to see the CAI filter even with the fog lamps removed, but plenty of air can still get to that area. The bumper does not seal this off, it only blocks the view.

Extra cooling to the rad/cond. Its possible to do this but not sure it would help and may actually hurt. Just behind the bumper is the draft panal (looking under the car at the condensor its the panal opposite at a steep angle) ,it could be vented but it may actually release air pressure from the area before it flows through the cond/rad.


Kevin

 

thank you "half price books", for that rendention of babble.if you push air in the system, it is much more effective than the motor trying to suck it from behind a bumper.stand in front of a fan , put your hand in front of your mouth...suck, now move it...suck.now which way did u get more air.

 

There is alot of room behind the bumper support im going to call it, I once had my hand up under the car in the cai area and was able to stick it out of the holes where the fog lights would sit so there is room i was just curious on how you it looked with the bumper support removed. This is what sparked my idea to open the holes up larger in the support to allow more air in. Thanks for the info.

 

i was thinking about the same thing.

 

If your pushing air into the system its no longer considered naturally asperated.


Kevin

 

The "Ram Air is a Myth" writeup is erroneous. It treats the airflow as if it was in a closed channel. It disregards the concept of "velocity head", and the fact that the increase in pressure in free air (not a closed channel) is utilized in the pitot tube to measure air velocity, and the resulting pressure increase.

Not that there is much "ram air" effect available to us mere mortals..... at 100MPH, using the concept of velocity head, it can be shown that the maximum possible gain from the increased air pressure is only about 1% of engine power, or 3HP for a "stockish" engine. At 50MPH, you would only see 0.25% (max) and that's less than 1HP for a stocker. The stock air intake is also a compromise, because it is located too close to the surface of the hood (the WS6 scoop is located in a better position), in the slow moving "boundary layer" that attaches to the surface of the hood. Add to that the lack of optimization of the intake port configuration, and ram air is not worth worrying about, for most cars.

The gains from ram air are realized though, for a Pro Stock car running 200MPH and pushing 1,350HP. At 200MPH, the maximum potential gain is 4%, and on a 1,350HP engine, that is 54 free HP. Look at the design of the Pro Stock scoops... developed in a wind tunnel. They are located at least 12" above the hood and its low speed boundary layer, and the shape of the inlet port had been optimized to maximize pressure recovery.

If Ram Air was a "myth", you wouldn't see the huge, elevated scoops on high speed race cars. Tell Gregg Anderson it's all in his imagination

 

I have to say that for a street car, even a really serious street car, the choice is purely about how you want your engine compartment to look. I would like a trans-am ram air style intake simply for the room it frees up in the engine compartment.

How do SS scoops and aftermarket scoops do with rain?

 

My 3'' SS Hood has been doing fine with water control. When i go to the carwash i try not to point the nozzel directly in the scoop but other then that everything is fine.

My intentions was to pick up a SS intake but after thinking about it and reading this thread it probably wouldn't gain much over my CAI with all the bends and all. So i will use it to just cool the intake manifold and release the hot air out of the engine compartment.

 

i think im just gonna cut the bottom of my cai hole out and make it open for cool air to get to the cai filter but im gonna make a custom scoop with a door that can slide over it when it rains so no water gets in the filter etc. im also thinkin about cutting out the fake scoops on the reg LT1 hood just to get some cool air in there too

 

I don't see how an ss or cai is any better then the other, they both seem to have a decent number of bends, I think probably the ws6 intake would be the best, but it seems like the gains aren't really worth it for any type of street car unless your looking for every little hp you can get.

 

ROck On Fred! :headbang fwiw my nostril's on my hood are there only to provide lift at high speed's... give's the illusion of me accelerating fast..

 

This is the oft-repeated argument on this board. SS hoodscoops(96-97) are different than the 98+ SS hoodscoops, as the air drops directly down instead of wrapping internal to the hood itself. That's why the LS1 WS6 posted better 1/4 mi. times, it's hoodscoop was direct and fed better to the airfilter.

For the 96-97 hoodscoops, the dyno will work directly opposite in producing power. The heatsoak will negate any free-flow, and since the ram-air will be negated by the dyno, it cannot be measured. The only measurements are when the car has broken past 60 or 70 MPH and begins to offset the vacuum.

Below is some minor calculations to consider:

1) On any given Revolution of the engine there is a maximum intake of 175 cubic inches of air consumed (350/2)
2) At 60 Miles per hour, the vehicle moves at 88 feet per second, or 1056 inches per second.
3) The opening of the Ram Air is approximately 3” X 8” or 24 square inches.
4) If the vehicle is moving at 60 MPH, then the Maximum Volume of air entering the Ram Air opening would be 25,344 cubic inches per second (1056*24)...
5) If the engine RPM is at 3000 RPM (= 50 revolutions per second) (4th gear @ ~60mph), then the Maximum Volume of air drawn into the eight cylinders would be (50 X 175”=8,750 cubic inches/second).

Ergo) If the vehicle is traveling at 60mph and is in 4th gear at 3,000 RPM and the ram-air inlet slot is 24 square inches, then the ram-air could potentially feed the engine upto 25,344 cubic inches of air per second, while the engine would be consuming only 8,750 cubic inches of air.

IN CONCLUSION, it appears that the RAM AIR can submit more air to the Air Filter than the engine consumes (with due regard to vehicle speed and RPM and compressibility) As to whether there is any positive air pressure exerted upon the air filter versus engine vacuum and whether any of that positive pressure can result in a power improvement is anecdotal at best due to the inefficiencies of the Ram Air, the filter, the air box, the intake manifold and cylinder design.

However, if the vacuum of the engine can be offset by some positive pressure, then the ability to draw air into an engine quicker lends itself to assume a positive benefit.

Besides, it just looks so cool!!!

 

so ram-air may show less power on the dyno... it ould be more benificial for the 1/4 mile...

would you agree?

 

When I went from stock intake with K&N filter to Ultra Z hood/intake, I did get a performance gain. But, as pointed out by Injuneer, that was most likely from straightening out the flow of the air.

 

Yeah cause Ram Air doesn't work on the dyno. If you have a fan while on a dyno it still wouldnt amount to much of anything.

Like I stated I found that article on the "myth of ram air" It didnt write it, but found it interesting reading and something to think about.

On the 3" cowl hoods I was under the impression that the hood is made to excavate heat from the engine area. Not to provide more air. Thus why the cowl faces the windshield.