whats the deal...also what hole do people usually use on the bmr relocation brackets...with stock springs...

thanks,
shawn

 

UH OH

I had the EXACT SAME COMBO of relocation brackets and Lower Control Arms.

What happened with my car is that the relocation brackets caused the control arms to pull the rear end a few inches forward, thus reducing the slop in my driveshaft and forcing pressure on the pinion bearings and transmission when accelerating and breaking respectively. I took the brackets off for now, because i have yet to get a solution to the problem. I have sought a lot of tech support but nothing concrete yet.

I STRONGLY suggest that u take the RLBs off for now, at least until one of us can find a solution to the problem.

 

no, no it only bangs when i go over bumps.... sorry i should of been more exact.... when i take off etc...its perfect...only when i go over bumps or potholes...

 

Hard to understand how the LCA relocation brackets could move the rear end "a few inches forward".... that would put the tires into the 1/4-panels, and drive the driveshaft deep into the tranny output shaft, since there is only 1/2" free-play in the stock driveshaft slider.

Properly designed LCA relocation brackets have the holes arranged in an "arc" that matches the path the axle end of the LCA follows as it drops. As a result, there should be no change in the axle location as a result of moving the LCA's up or down. I know the Spohn brackets are designed like this, and I would suspect that Bret is more than smart enough to figure this out for the BMR design..... .

 

I HAVE THEM ALSO THE PROBLEM IS THE BOLTS NEED TO BE TIGTER TORQUE THEM TO 80 FT PDS THAT SHOULD FIX IT IF NOT CALL BMR

 

Well, I may have exaggerated on the few inches. But u CAN notice that the wheels are closer to the quarter panel, and i had the car up on a lift and i could see that there was not enough slop in the driveshaft.

Is there something about the Lakewood Lower Control Arms and the BMR Relocation Brackets that cause an improper fit? I would really like the get the RLBs back on. Do u have any ideas Fred? I tried emailing BMR with no response. Should I call them, or Lakewood? Thanx for the help.

 

Its just a matter of simple geometry... not high tech. Are you sure you got the brackets fitted properly to the stock brackets, and not tilting backward somehow? Was your car serioulsy lowered to begin with? That will compress the DS into the tranny all by itself. LCA relocator brackets should correct the problem, not make it worse. Do you have an aftermarket rear axle assembly, like a Moser 12-bolt, which can cause DS length problems?

 

We've got Lakewood LCA's as well as LCA Relocation Brackets, no banging at all.
Ours are welded in brackets.

http://www.transamws6.com/pics/05-2003/fuelpump1.jpg

 

I had the same problem when hitting bumps when i put on new lca,s and relocation brackets. It was a stripped bolt on 1 end of the lca when i put it back together. Just recheck the bolts. I needed to just add some washers to mine so the nut could catch some good threads

 

My car isn't lowered or anything like that. I still ahve stock suspension all the way around. However, the stock springs are pretty old, and i have noticed that my car sits lower than my other friends stock Z28. I still have a stock rear end axle with 3.73 gears and a torsen diff. I plan on putting in a 1LE driveshaft soon, if that has any affect. Is it possible that the RLBs were welded in improperly? Right now i just have the lakewood arms in, and the RLBs are sitting on the shelf, cuz im afraid of doing severe damage.

 

TTT

 

Have you even checked your bolts to see what they're torqued down to??? It's like you're ignoring the guys who mentioned that, and it sounds to me like that's your problem. At least acknowledge their advice... geez..

Even IF your rear suspension was moved forward a little, there shouldn't be anything popping in there. But as Fred said, the the RLB's should have the lowering bolts in an arc, so that shouldn't be your problem.

 

umm i'm not ignoring anyones advice, I HAVE WELD IN RLBs and I DID CHECK THE BOLTS on the opposite side. The tensions of the bolts would have nothing to do with the rear end being pulled forward either

 

What ever you say zen master. Give BMR a call and ask them what typically causes clunks like that.