Engine has developed a light knock, putting a screwdrive to the pan and listening it sounds like maybe the #1 or #2 cylinder? Drained the oil and cut the filter open and there a fair amount of metal in there.

Engine was built by Nutech about 4 years ago. Because I too had some issues the engine sat for almost two years on the stand, proper stored. And I made sure everything was oiled and I primed the engine multiple times before it went in the car March 2005. Since then I run about 5-10 minutes every two three weeks just to keep everything lubed and the battery charger. I've driven it about only has about 700 miles and 8 passes on it. I spin the motor to 6200RPMs and see 10# of boost.

I've had various issue with this motor from day 1! Does anyone have any ideas why a bearing would fail like this? would you take a chance on this block again or have the parts put into anouther block? ( I still have the original short block from the car). Can the maincaps be reused in another block or would I need new ones?

I need to look at the paper work buy I think he used Clevite bearings? Is there better?

other internals are:
Callie Stealth crank
Lunati rods
SRP/JE pistons
4 bolt caps (Milodon sprayed)

 

id pull the motor and have the block looked at, its a lot of work putting splayed caps on a block, you will get so much money into machining a new block your probably a lot better off just redoing the one that you have now depending on what it did, maybe nothing is wrong with the block and its a rod bearing.

 

I'd stop now while you still have something to work with.

 

Do not run it anymore, you will ruin that nice Callies crank.

Take it to a different builder - 700 miles and that many passes is barely broken in.

 

You could run some of the coated clevites thats what I am using they are pricey though. but with as little as you ran that it was something else not the bearings fault it failed.

 

Thanks guys. The car is 100% parked! And I sure hope the crank is fine!

What happened was that I live 1 mile from the drag strip. I started the car as normal, let it warm up for about 5 minutes then drove to the track. On the way there I put the car in 2nd gear and ran it up to about 5,000 RPMs just to clear it out. I pulled into the track and heard a light ticking, thought it was a rocker arm or my SC pulley coming loose again. So I didn't run it. I drove it home the 1 mile, put it on ramps and pulled the SC belt off and the valve breathers. Figured the noise wasn't a rockerarm or lifter so I crawled under it and found it was coming from the pan. That's when I drained the oil and found at the shavings, which I assume is the babbitt from the bearing(s).

 

Well I finally had time off work and I pulled it apart, and it's a real mess! The main bearingas are spun. Must have been going bad for a while and I couldn't hear it over the noise of the supercharger? Never lost oil pressure but the center bearings are wipes so badly the oil grooves are also gone. The crank is chewed up badly as well. I'm going to take it to a different builder and see if they can determine if the block is worth reusing or if I should build another block?

I'm sick!

 

Are you going to have your p600b checked?

 

That sucks. I hope you have better luck with this next one.

 

Sounds like a bad splayed cap install with not enough bearing crush(align honed main housing bore too large)

 

Yes, everything is being torndown and checked. Looks like allot of metal frags where pumped thru the engine.

Is that something that can be repaired or is the block worthless? I do have an engine builder that is going to go over it.

 

This is somewhat bothersome as I'm also running a Nutek shortblock. I've put about 2500 miles on it so far w/out any issues. I hope you get your setup back together w/out any issues.

 

Your machinist will let you know what the damage is, I'm just guessing - if it is a bad line hone, the caps can be clipped and the line hone re-done.