I need your help. I recently did a brake job on the rear axle and replaced the rotors. Ever since I am getting the squeal when I make a hard left turn. I have seen this problem described on this board and I already have the GM shim on order to recenter the caliper to prevent the dragging that is causing the squeal sound.

I also believe I have too much end play so I removed the axles and I found the C locking clip on the left side has a little wear so I am replacing them. I would like to confirm that the slot in the axle where the locking clip sits is not too wide and that the button on the end of the axle is not worn too thin but I can't find any specs. Does anybody know these two dimensions or possibly have a new axle they can measure for me? I hate to put this back together without making sure the axles are OK.

 

The service department at the local dealer has no specs on the axle. Does anybody have info on this or know where I could find it?

 

Anybody?

 

I have the same question. Same circumstances.

Wade

 

Eventually I put the axle together with new C clips and used the shims behind the brake caliper mounting plates to correct the squeel caused by the caliper not being centered over the rotor. The problem was solved but no one could ever tell me the axle specs. Does anybody know?

 

There was another thread I just looked through that talked about the shims. The best explanation seems to be at:

www.go-fast.org/z28/diagnostics.html

"Squeak from rear on sharp turns:"

Do you recall the size for the caliper bracket shim? The above webpage gives a GM part number (#26034667) but I figured I would just head over to AutoZone.

Thanks!

 

That link pretty much sums up what is here. I don't think you will find that shim anywhere but the dealer. I'm sure you will tell us if you do, though.

 

Thanks for diagram! Makes sense.

I read other threads where changing the axle c-clip was discussed. While that may work as well, I just did axle bearings & seals a few weeks ago, along with the f/r pads & rotors. Since that was the first time doing that particular job, I think I've used up my alotted "car time" for a while with my wife. Caliper bracket shims I can do quick

Wade

 

Quick? You do know that the axle has to come out to put the shim in, right? Personally, I might attempt cutting the shim on one side and fitting it over the axle tube, so I would not have to pull the axle out.

Another pic

 

It wasn't too bad. It took me more time to find the solution than to do the work. If had to put the shims on again, I would say it would take about 2 hours but only because I have done it once already. I would say 3 hours if you have all your supplies (gasket, gear oil, rear additive, recommended optional axle seals, shims, etc.) ready to go.

Just make sure you measure the distances with a depth guage before you start to make sure you need the shim on both sides. It comes two in a pack from the dealer, one for each side.

The service manual calls out the part number but that number was superseded by a new number.

Use the number that Shoebox gave you...

 

Hmm. Better pic. Originally, I thought the shim might go between the mounting plate and the caliper assembly to close the gap, like a washer around bolt #45 on the opposite side of the mounting plate #46 (referring to the diagram numbers).

Yeah, now that I see it, I doubt AutoZone would have that shim #44.

Is there any reason you couldn't just shim the between the mounting plate and caliper? Seems to accomplish the same thing, or is that another form of engineering

Seriously though, is there a structural reason why you couldn't just shim between the bracket and the mounting plate?

 

Shoebox, thanks for the diagrams and explanations.

Instead of the GM shim, I purchased a universal set of shims from the auto parts store. I used a 1/64 on each of the caliper bracket bolts between the bracket and the caliper to achieve the same effect of re-centering the caliper. 1/64 was a little less than the width of the GM shim when you do the math, but it worked fine for my application. The package of shims had a number of larger sizes I could try if 1/64 hadn't worked.

I also used the CRC orange goop on the back side of the pads.

Wade

 

So where exactly would i put the shims?

 

If you are following the factory procedure, you need to remove the axles and the caliber mounting plates and place the shims against the flange on the end of the axle tube. Then you reinstall the mounting plate to the end of the axle tube so the shim is between the flange and the plate. Then reinstall the axle and the rest. Make sure you measure the distances shown in the service manual before and after to make sure the caliper is centered where it is supposed to be.

It is an easy job and gives you an excuse to change the rear oil.

Good luck.

 

I didn't pull the axle again because I had just done it a few weeks earlier and didn't want to go through the hassle/expense so soon. I had used up my allotted car time for a while with my wife.

Effectively, you are moving the caliper bracket outward to recenter. I put the shims between the caliper bracket and the plate that the bolt goes through to hold the caliper in place.

Otherwise, it would just be a washer for the caliper bolt right

It makes sense when you look at it. Just think about where the GM shim goes and what it would do as far as repositioning the caliper and you'll get it. Hard to explain in words ...