LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

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Old Apr 7, 2004 | 02:55 PM
  #16  
gb95zconv's Avatar
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From: Woodstock,Georgia
Originally posted by MentalCaseOne


8) why the hell is your car on block learn cell 16?? isnt that for WOT?? dang you should be somewhere between cell 1 through cell 5 and even that I think its wrong.... cell 16?? I cant recall my cell blocks but I dont think 16 is right/// can someone correct me here??


Idle cell normally is 16. WOT is usually 15 or 18.
Old Apr 7, 2004 | 03:36 PM
  #17  
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Originally posted by ChickenScreamer94

Well since you were in open loop why is your right block learn 160? THat is maxed out, and should be 128 always in open loop. Typo? ....
In open loop, it runs in Cell 16 at idle, and Cells 17 and 18 when under load. It uses the BLM's that are stored in that cell.... and only locks the integrators at 128. Is doesn't lock the BLM's at 128 in open loop.... it simply blocks any further "learning". Obviously the 160BLM is driving the pulse width higher on that side.

2) The oxygen sensor readings are showing both an exact 453mvs with the engine running..the chances of you getting that scanner reading with both identical are slim to none, however hats the kind of reading you will get with the Key on Engine off after the O2's warmed up to working temp... (your reading is really fishy) were the O2s readings moving at all?? mine begin to move up and down in like 3 seconds...yours are dead center after three minutes??? something very wrong there..
The "timeout" on closed loop is a "variable".... seems to take longer in the winter than in the summer for example. He has been running 2min 27sec, so its a close call. But.... the 453mV is exactly what you get from the O2 sensors when they aren't working. Start the car cold, and you will see a number close to 450mV... that's because the PCM supplies the 450mV bias, and the O2 sensors are still cold and not generating any voltage of their own. Did you check the heater circuits for the O2 sensors?

3) since you are still in open loop there is no reason why the right block learn value should be anything other than 128 ( I suspect your PCM is fudged up......or something else is.
No. See explanation on first item above.

4) My Baro is in Volts... when I read yours I thought it was too high... are you at sea level? can someone remind me whats the max Baro in Killopascals?? I forgot
His BAR is 100kPA.... normal. His MAP reading is in Volts = 1.56V = approx 10-11"H2o = 35-38kPa... not that far off from a stock cam.

8) why the hell is your car on block learn cell 16?? isnt that for WOT?? dang you should be somewhere between cell 1 through cell 5 and even that I think its wrong.... cell 16?? I cant recall my cell blocks but I dont think 16 is right/// can someone correct me here??
Cell 16 is the IDLE cell. There is no "WOT" cell, although it will generally use Cell 15 if you are adding fuel, and Cell 18 if the BLM's were subtacting fuel. Sounds like some misunderstanding of how things work.

"Integrators" are the "short term fuel corrections. This is what the PCM sets "temporarily, based on O2 sensor feedback, and adjust each time it cycles through the control process, about 9 times per second. If it see that the INT's are above or below 128 for an extended time, it then alters the BLM, or "long term fuel correction".... a more "permanent" number that is stored used until another problem with the INT's occures.

Might want to reas this VERY carefully.

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm

In summary, your O2 sensors aren't working, and you have a serious problem on the right side of the engine with regard to fuel control. But looking at one frame from a "cold start" condition is next to useless. Run a data log that shows a few minutes of "normal", warmed up driving, and do a brief WOT blast to max RPM in one gear. Then post the results for people to look at.

Last edited by Injuneer; Apr 7, 2004 at 03:43 PM.
Old Apr 7, 2004 | 08:19 PM
  #18  
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Im idleing real rough like I have a cam .... but its stock im going too, check plugs,plug wires, maf,02 wires,and vacuum leaks , Isn't there spose to be a code thrown if the opti is going out , also my problem is at low rpm for the most part it seems too slightly go away the more gas that is pushed, stilll lingers , I'll let you all know I figure it out
Old Apr 7, 2004 | 11:38 PM
  #19  
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well i found a couple problems right off the bat , the first was that the third plug back on the passenger side was loose in the head i could spin it with my fingers, and one of the coil grounds on the coil was off replaced that , didnt drive it that much after that but it seemed to help for the time I drove it
Old Apr 8, 2004 | 06:01 AM
  #20  
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From: Hawaii
I hope my todays findings are related to your problem......

One day I parked in the morning... car running very smooth. Went I went back to start her same day at night... the engine was running very rough... and I herd this weird clickin noises in the back.... as it turns out it was backfiring.. It has been like that for four days, however today I got under her and removed the diver side cat to gain access to everything down there...

I found sparkplug number one had lots of dry deposits on it and the ceramic part was light brown but no carbon deposits... hard to describe but it look like rust. A careful look at the ceramic insert revealed a hairline crack on it.... Bingo!! I know this crack will cause the spark to happen away from the tip and inside the sparkplug area.... I have read this causes timin to retard a bit too... So I pulled all the other spark plugs and they look perfect!!!! and I mean clean and perfect!!!

I replaced the oil lever sending unit (leaky) two brand new AC delco oxygen sensors, did an oil change, and I will replace the spark plug wires (I did one side already).

I hope this fix my missing,, misfiring and backfiring.... oh and at one point it look like I had a vacum leak too....maybe this is related to the spark plug not working properly.

Just to let everyone know.

Marvin
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