This may be a little long so bare with me.

I changed out my starter last Tuesday and drove the car on Wednesday with no problems. The car was running fine prior to the new starter. Thursday on the way home the car sputtered and almost stalled a few times. There was no CEL so I thought it might be the coil. I have a spare so I swapped it out but it didn't change anything. The car was running ruff and had a miss. Over the weekend I had some time to mess with it to try and find the problem. When it did finely throw a code it ended up being an O2. I swapped the O2s and the code followed the sensor. Put in a new one and the ruff idle and miss stayed. Changed out the plugs and it smoothed out but I still have audible knock of 9 degrees (sounds like rockers are chattering or something) and an engine back fire at 2000RMPs on hard throttle. The only thing I did prior to all this happing was the starter swap. When I did the starter all I did was drop the Y pipe, disconnect the knock sensor wire, and the battery ground on the passenger side of the block and the two wires on the starter. The PCM wire might have gotten pulled/hit a little in the process but I'm not 100% sure. Could any of this be causing the problem or is it just a coincidence??? Open to options and opinions.

Thanks

 

In performing a starter swap which would have nothing to do with the engine running porr due to the only job of the starter is to turn the engine over. Dont look at you starter as the problem because its doing its job its starting your car. When you replaced the starter you could have maybe pushed aroung the spark plug wires maybe loosening one of them when you took down the y pipe. Also you could have hit or pulled on an o2 sensor causing it to go out or loosen it up and maybe allowing some oil or hz2 ot enter the plug in or maybe just moisture. Also you could have hit your knock sensor in its self id replace the sensors and i usually do both that way i know there isnt any problems check all the plug wires and make sure their not rubbing anything or frayed in any areas and that they are making good contact with the plugs and the distributor. Once this is done check for codes and i only say replace the o2 sensors cause you said it though a code. But definatley not the starter. If its anything else it should be throwing codes.

 

I didnt see but definately check the ground wires, pcm wires because this could definately cause your problem.

 

Why did you start a new thread, when you already had one covering the problem, and were getting responses?

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=751964

 

because I'm starting to think it has something to do with the starter replacement as that is when it all started and people tend not to read a whole post before throwing answers out.

 

I know the starter is not the problem but was thinking the ground wires around it might be. The plug wires weren't touched in this process as I have OTVC wires on the car. If it was false knock I'd be worried about the sensor, but it is not. I can hear it pinging when I get the knock. O2 sensor was replaced so far that is the only code I've got. Right now I'm wondering if the PCM wire or possibly the battery ground would cause this as they are the only ones down in that area that could have been affected.

 

You said you can HEAR the knock, so I would say the knock sensor is just doing its job which confuses me as to why you are checking the sensor's wires/connections If you are getting knock, you need to figure out what the problem is... You said the "rockers are clattering or something", so my first suggestion is to take the valve covers off and check/readjust the rockers (lash). You also stated in your other thread that you had a backfire through the intake... It would be really helpful if you could scan the pcm and make sure the MAF sensor is still functioning correctly w/ no erratic numbers because I have heard of several instances where a backfire has melted the sensors in the maf.
EDIT: you obviously have a way to scan the car since you know there is 9deg knock :duh: so check out the maf readings.

 

Also, you said you replaced the o2 because you had a code for it.. what code was it? was it a code stating the o2 was reading lean/rich or was it o2 failure? My guess is o2 lean, which means the problem probably isn't the o2 and that's why you're getting knock...