So can I just use regular teflon tape on all the head bolts?

 

I always use the GM coolant system sealing tablets in my car when I do the engine and those seem to prevent any leaks. My car runs pretty cool too. I used the ARP sealant with ARP studs. When I put the studs in I had sealant on the threads and inside the threaded holes too before I screwed them in. After I screwed them in, I wiped up all the excess then put the gasket on. I guess it doesnt works so well for some people - it looks just like teflon based pipe dope to me.

 

It works like regular pipe dope. I buy pipe dope at Home Depot for a somewhat better price per ounce than ARP Sealant. Works fine.

 

I had a leaking problem with one of mine.

I just used a good amount of teflon paste and it looks to be mint.

 

Yes. 4-6 wraps should do it. Remember, there is some technique to using teflon tape. It's important to wrap the tape so it does not unravel as you are tightening your bolt.

jasonisdn: Yea, those are important .

 

I don't know how many people I have told to use this and they didn't listen. They used the ARP stuff and the studs leaked. #2 has worked great for us on many motors and never had one leak.

 

Just an update, I teflon taped the 2 that were leaking and no more leaks.

Now I am going to have to alway be checking the ones inside the valve covers though for leaks...

Kinda sucks.

 

we all learn something new everyday. ANYONE that says they know it all, is a liar.

 

Have they changed the ARP thread sealant lately? I have used it for years, on studs and bolts, with no issues.

 

I have had problems over the years getting studs to seal on LT1 engines. Have tried everything in the book. Permatex # 2, ARP sealant, teflon paste, teflon tape, aviation rtv, Holamar, and TA-29. TA-29 works the best from my experience.

I have noticed milder motors do not have that problem as bad as high horsepower high reving LT1's. I think the block moves around at high rpms and causes them to leak.

Tony Shepherd

 

I agree with Shep! I have seen the same exact things and have no real reason as to why the failures. It could be assumed that heat cycling plays a role in it and that they should be retorqued even though it is said to not be necessary. I have seen them leak down over time as well as loose coolant. I avoid studs on the heads at all costs. Now on the other hand ARP head bolts FTW! I use ARP stud kits in the bottom with absoultely no issues, it is only on the heads.