I had them saved on my summit wish list, but when I went to move them into my cart I accidently deleted them.

I just want the bolts, not studs and what ones I am suppost to get.

I thought they were these, but I can't remember now http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

Or should I get the 12 point ones http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

And one more thing, I did some searching and found that the torque specs and how to properly "break in" the bolts had a few different answers.

I don't have my old head gaskets and I don't want to ruin my new ones by torquing and loosening and retorquing the bolts, but whats the proper way to torque these bolts down for the first time. I aslo heard to torgue them to 22 #s, then 44 #s, then 65 #s for the final torque.

Please let me know

 

Get the first ones, the hex style.

Your almost correct on the torque specs, final is 75. And make sure you do it in a circle moving from the center out-word clockwise.

No need to "break-in" these babes .. just torque and go... depending on the abuse and your preference, some say to go back after a few heat cycles to re-check torque.. but i've never had an issue with ARP bolts and Fel-pro MLS gaskets. Even with ~10psi of boost

 

VK where did you see 75?
Reason I ask is when I did the H/C on my car I found plenty of people doing 65 lbs. So that is what I TQed mine down to.

 

Thank you very much. But I'll ask about the 75 too, since I have always read 65, but I'll take your word for it I'm using Fel-Pro gaskets and am planning on using the ARP moly Lube, and ARP thread sealer to be safe on the torque specs.

Thanks again

 

why is the hex better? i read in another thread to get the 12 point. which is better and why?

 

More important is to make sure to clean out threads in block with a tap all the way down, blow out grit and oil with brake clean, then spotless clean and dry with air.

Oh... and pony up for the ARP head studs, they are worth the cost, and only require 50 ft lbs total.

 

I'm not getting studs, I have heard of way too many people having problems with them and if I have a problem with the heads or head geaskets I don't want to have to pull the motor again just because I used head studs (read somewhere that you can't get the heads off in the car). I know that the studs would be superior, but I'm not going to do them this time, mabye when I add some boost and new bottom end I'll opt for the studs

 

I forget where i heard 75. Either ARP or one of the many lt1 "experts" ive talked to over the years. But i'm sure if your not spraying 300 shot or running 25lbs of boost it doesn't matter.

 

ARP's catalog has a complete writeup on this and they recommend "breaking in" the bolts by tightening and loosening them 5 times. Just read it last night.

 

Yeah, but I don't wnt to ruin my new head gaskets by loosening and retorquing my bolts. Can I just tighten them down in stages to break them in? Like 22#s, 45#s, then 65#s?

 

Use an old gasket,buff the new threads on the bolts(with wire brush on a bench grinder),run a tap in all bolt holes,then run in and out 3 times to seat threads to each other.
Put lube/sealer on bolts and use ARP instructions.

 

I did what you are suggesting. I am just telling you what ARP recommends. They explain the theory behind why they recommend this. If I get some time, I'll post part of their article. There is some interesting detail about what causes bolts to break.

 

I just torque my arp head bolts down to 40,50,60,70 75 and did one more final pass at 75 and all is good...