ah ok i understand now, thanks for the article. Most people tell me that 4.10 gears are to much for an M6 thats going to be a daily driver, they said i would get killed with gas mileage and even in 6th on the highway i'd be in high rpm's. I've heard 3.73's are the way to go for a daily driver/mostly street car. Anyone have 4.10's on a daily driver?

 

There's only a 10% difference between 3.73's and 4.10's as far as RPM's go. If a 3.73 car is going to cruise at 2000 RPM on the freeway, then a 4.10 car will be right around 2200. Actually, I found that it makes 6th gear much more useable since you can cruise in 6th at 50MPH or so...

 

I'm one of those 7 rwhp guys.

Like another said, what may be perfectly acceptable to one guy as "streetable daily driver" (i.e., GM 847 cam) may seem totally rediculous and over the top to another guy. That's all in the eyes of the beholder.

Personally, I envision the perfect daily driver as a car with something like a Hotcam or similar, ice cold A/C in the summer, doesn't need regular valve adjustments, and passes emissions w/ flying colors on ANY given day without having to jack w/ the tuning or run alcohol to pass.

Additionally, I think it would be tough to find a "power package" from a company that hasn't slightly fluffed up the numbers. One way companies can overinflate the AVERAGE numbers is by using a power-adder engine w/ their parts. Any motor w/ a power adder (i.e. blower, turbo) is going to show a more significant gain with/without said parts than an N/A motor. Large displacement engines, strokers, or engines w/ top notch components are also going to find their weakest link most prominently.

The best way to find real-world gains is by talking to people that have actually used and tested the parts you're looking for individually, either on a dyno or track.

 

"Don't fear the gear"

I have 3.70's in my m6 and I hate it. I'm swapping them out this weekend for 4.30's. 4.10's are PERFECT for a daily driver m6.

 

I think you'll find this is the general concensus from people who have ACTUALLY driven M6 cars with 4.10's...

 

Well now things are starting to light up a bit.

First i need to clarify a few things: I own a SS ! Part of which means: i already have a hurst shifter, i have TA written on the back of my diff, my catback is sporty out of the factory, i have stock CAI - but i'm thinking of changing out the elbow that has the resonator, worth 100$?. Someone said i can get airfoil + elbow for 50$ off e-bay, LINK !

Also, i just bought a set of new BFG G-Force Sport 245/50ZR16 which are both legal sizing (police here haunt us about tires as they're too inapt to see any real technical mods) and best performance i could find for the cheapest possible price.

My car is registered legally as non-euro (we have euroX here to say level of pollution) so basically i can throw the headers out of the hood and it's still legal

I found a lot of useful advice in what you guys said so far. Here's a few things i find apply to me and will take into consideration:
- cam/head too much for my needs and desires;
- roller rockers - help out mainly high rev, gain horses, a good addon if you do it along with springs, 1.6 ratio, if it fits the budget and the time is right i'll probably go for it!
- long tubes + y pipe - definately one of the first, most probably pacesetter, i'm still thinking if i should kill and remove AIR and EGR systems, loose some weight since pollution doesn't matter; Will the y-pipe of this system match to my stock SS catback?
- cutout : electric ones are 250$, sounds a bit spicy to me... Manual ones? I'm thinking this could find a nice place somewhere between the y-pipe and catback. might actually be useful maybe. As i said i have SS muffler and not going to change it anyway.
- gears! apparently people think using 4.10 is both helpful and the only con is i get to 150miles at higher revs. I usually cruise 85-90mph highway at 2000-2200 rpms. These will get me to 3000 probably right? I'll loose some hwy mileage but 90% of the time it's city....
- about the tune. I live in "the kingdom of far far away". Getting my ecu to the us and back isn't worth the hassle when i can get a second computer sent to me for 300$. People do ecu tunings here for 300€ and they don't get another ecu :P I mailed madz28 and he said it's much more difficult to tune a '96 ecu, and getting a '95 one means 50$ laptop updates later on if i change other stuff, instead of another 100-200$ to send the ecu back and forth all over the planet. However once i install everything else i'm ordering a new ecu made for it, it's a must.

I think i got it all covered, so still a few questions to be answered but the picture is getting a little clearer

 

I hope going to a bigger throttle body won't lose horsepower since I ordered a 58 mm last night.

 

Since you already have the Hurst shifter, try out the TNA short stick. You can get one on ebay for less than $20 US. I really liked mine with that set up, but if you don't, it takes 10 minutes to change back to stock. as for the gears, if you're cruising at 2k-2200 on the highway with 3.42's, you'll be at 2400-2650 or so with 4.10's, so it's really not that bad. For tuning, you might want to check out Trifecta performance. They are one of the sponsors here and they will send out a PDA with your new tune and you can load it yourself without removing your PCM...

 

I've found the TNA short stick on e-bay for under 20$, it actually sounds pretty nice. I may go for it

About the Trifecta performance pcm tune, it costs 175$ plus shipping both ways, which will probably cost me about 100$. I'm thinking 25$ dollars and ending up with a second PCM is more worth it

 

Might re-read Compstal,I like the staight forward advice.My$.02

 

#1 About the 1.6 RRs. If you install them on a non-cammed engine, what else would be recommended/needed to install along with them?

I've found Pro-Magnum Non-Self-Aligning Roller Rocker Arms, 7/16" stud, 1.6 Ratio for 300$ for example and i think that's what most of you are using am i correct? What does self-aligning mean, would that be something i'd want? Does installing this kind of addon cause any problems? Need lots of maintenance? (someone said so).

I don't know much about mechanics but they have there lots of other stuff like: springs, retainers, guides, pushrods etc. Can you just install RRs or you need some of the other stuff too? What i'm doing is a non-cammed not too expensive upgrade.

#2 If i were to go with the Pacesetter LTs race version, no AIR and EGR, how would i go about deleting these 2 systems, you need some special kits/items or just disassemble and drive? Considering i'm getting my PCM tuned to accomodate these deletions, should i expect any problems? Any disadvantages to removing AIR and EGR?

 

Just out of curiosity, since you listed prices in euros, what part of Europe will this SS be terrorizing in the future?

 

#1 You will need to upgrade valvesprings when you go to 1.6 RR's. Depending on the valvesprings you choose, you may need retainers and locks as well. Since you've chosen non-self aligning rockers, guideplates are a must, and make sure you get the correct ones, because there are quite a few places out there that will sell you guideplates for a Gen I SBC, which is not correct for the LT1. Also be sure to pick up a set of hardened pushrods.

#2 You are fine deleting both EGR and the AIR system, although if it's possible, most people recommend leaving EGR intact. It does serve a function even on cars without cats. The AIR on the other hand is useless equipment if you go to an ORY. You can get delete kits from several of the sponsors here. They will just be metal plates that close off the passages for the EGR and AIR system. It's a pretty easy thing to figure out once you look at the delete plates.

 

x2.

 

I've read on wikipedia about EGR, i'm not sure what to think. Can anyone post some experiences about removing the EGR?

If i'm to keep it for some reason, i have to buy the emissions LTs and block off the AIR and use only the EGR port pretty funny... :P