LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Anyone sell or suggest kits of mods that go well together and real results?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 29, 2007 | 02:08 PM
  #31  
Zigroid's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 948
From: Stroudsburg, PA
If I could start all over again I would go...
4.10s
pacesetter LTs (get emissions legal ones and plug the holes so that if you need to put everything back, you can), pacesetter Y-pipe, stock catback (IMO dont need cutout for what you want)
1.6 roller rockers - I always heard you could use them with stock springs? it only bumps the lift up to ~.480". these would be the last one the list of boltons though.
cold air intake. that SS intake just doesnt look like it would flow nearly as well as a CAI that runs in front of the drivers side tire.
depending on mileage... plugs (TR55s), wires (I liked my taylor over the valve cover wires), possibly optispark if necessary.

then Id move on to suspension. lower control arms, swaybars (not sure how the SS differs from other F-bodies though, may be better from the factory), new bushings and such.

there really isnt alot of power-gaining bolt-ons to do. I wouldn't be scared about a cam swap though. something as simple as an LT4 hotcam kit would yield some nice gains and make the car alot more fun without sacrificing streetability.
Old Oct 29, 2007 | 03:15 PM
  #32  
danhr's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,109
From: Pittsburgh, PA
removing air/egr doesn't give you any hp.... takes off weight and cleans up the engine bay though.

you have the FACTORY hurst shifter, which, if memory serves me correct, is DIFFERENT than the AFTERMARKET hurst shifter. why bother wasting money on a short stick? just take a dremel to your stock shift handle... that's what I did. I didn't even rethread the handle and it worked out fine.

stock catback will work with long tubes, it will just require an s pipe i think...
Old Oct 29, 2007 | 03:46 PM
  #33  
flexus's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 305
From: Romania (Europe)
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku

This LT4 hotcam kit looks interesting, as it has pretty much everything you need, including RRs, doesn't it ?

It looks nice for last addon before getting the PCM tune And i've read it's streetable (corvette streetable) too.

Wouldn't this be ok for me ?
Old Oct 29, 2007 | 04:19 PM
  #34  
danhr's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,109
From: Pittsburgh, PA
hotcam is pretty worthless imo.

minimum for a cam swap in my book is a cc305. it's just as streetable as the lt4 and makes more power
Old Oct 29, 2007 | 04:33 PM
  #35  
96LT1TX's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,035
From: Houston, TX
www.ws6.com
that is one website, go to modifications. There are hundreds of these websites I am sure. The main thing for a beginner is headers and full exhaust, and the bolt-ons like elec wp, gears, pulleys, cold air intake (if you are not ram air), clutch if your a manual or stall if auto... etc. The pulleys I wouldn't suggest, but that is just me.
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #36  
White96Z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 242
From: Vegas
Originally Posted by danhr
removing air/egr doesn't give you any hp.... takes off weight and cleans up the engine bay though.

you have the FACTORY hurst shifter, which, if memory serves me correct, is DIFFERENT than the AFTERMARKET hurst shifter. why bother wasting money on a short stick? just take a dremel to your stock shift handle... that's what I did. I didn't even rethread the handle and it worked out fine.

stock catback will work with long tubes, it will just require an s pipe i think...
The point of the short stick is to get rid of the rubber bushing between the stick and the actual shifter mechanism. It's not the same as cutting the stock shaft down.
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 10:29 AM
  #37  
danhr's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,109
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by White96Z28
The point of the short stick is to get rid of the rubber bushing between the stick and the actual shifter mechanism. It's not the same as cutting the stock shaft down.
my bad, i thought the short stick still retained the rubber bushing.
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:08 AM
  #38  
flexus's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 305
From: Romania (Europe)
Couldn't i just take the stock stick out and manufacture myself a replacement aluminum piece to replace the rubber ? There's places i can make any shape from pieces of metal, given some sizes.

About the lt4 hot cam kit, if it's useless/not worth the money, what other kits would you recommend for a totally streetable and sometimes going to races car?
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 11:34 AM
  #39  
Vicious95Z28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 568
From: Elkton, Va
Originally Posted by White96Z28
I think you'll find this is the general concensus from people who have ACTUALLY driven M6 cars with 4.10's...
Yep, I love my 4.10's with the M6 but I'd be willing to give a set of 4.30's a shot. The deeper gear will make it more drivable. I didn't go with the 3.73's back in the day when I did my gears because I didn't see where there could be a great deal of difference from the 3.42.
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #40  
flexus's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 305
From: Romania (Europe)
Will installing 4.10 affect speedometer? How do you fix it? Will PCM tune take care of it? Any other way to fix that?
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 06:19 PM
  #41  
Compstall's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,442
From: Tacoma, WA, USA
W/ your '96 you can just get the PCM tuned for the gearing.
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 06:38 PM
  #42  
danhr's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,109
From: Pittsburgh, PA
like i said... the minimum in my book for a cam swap is a comp cam 305. It is very streetable and makes more power than the lt4 cam.

a buddy of mine runes one in his caprice and it's very tame and sounds/runs great
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 06:42 PM
  #43  
flexus's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 305
From: Romania (Europe)
Any links for this cam? Maybe in some kit with everything else needed for it too? Or what else you need when you install a cam?
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 07:05 PM
  #44  
Compstall's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,442
From: Tacoma, WA, USA
Originally Posted by danhr
like i said... the minimum in my book for a cam swap is a comp cam 305. It is very streetable and makes more power than the lt4 cam.
Barely in some cases, if any. The specs are nearly identical to the Hotcam. Hotcam is cheaper, otherwise find a different cam for your money like the LPE 211/219 or something. My $.02 -- this arguement can go on forever, so I'm done here.
Old Oct 31, 2007 | 12:13 PM
  #45  
flexus's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 305
From: Romania (Europe)
According to this site http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_camdata.htm :

LT4 hot cam 218 226 .492 .492 .525 .525 112
Comp 305 220 230 .510 .510 .544 .544 114

I'd say the hot cam is a better choice for me, not too far apart values but comes in a complete package, still a good upgrade to my stock camaro LT1, and if i come out cheaper too...


Anyway i've been thinking of starting the modifications in 3 moves:
1. 4.10 Gears, LT headers, keeping SS intake but replace elbow, install airfoil, get a TB bypass kit, maybe the short stick someone suggested AND A TUNE.

2. Upgrade suspension / stiffness + get 2 new 17" SS wheels to go on the back with wider tires (i have 16" wheels now, 8.5 wide).

3. Cam package (probably lt4 hot) along with anything else that might need changing inside, and a new tune, probably going to happen a while after the other stuff as it's a lot of money all by it's own.

How does this sound ?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:10 AM.