anyone help me out??
anyone help me out??
looking to buy some et streets for the back and some skinnies for the front for my 93z does anyone know what size will fit in the back without any modifing and possibly proper back spacing for weld pro stars so that everything fits under nice and neat and if you know backspacing for the front so that the tires dont look to sucked in
thanks
thanks
what size rim are you going with?
You can run 15x8 with 6.5 inch BS on the rear and that should be good.
Regular Weld Pro Stars will need spacers up front and brake grinding in the rear to clear.
I went with Pro Star XPs so I would not have to deal with this problem but the XPs are only available in 5.5 BS and with my 15x10 inch rim they stick out some. I have 15x6 on the front and they look right on.
Again this is with a bit heavier XP so if you go with regular 15 inch welds you will have to modify some to get them to fit no matter what size you go with.
You can run 15x8 with 6.5 inch BS on the rear and that should be good.
Regular Weld Pro Stars will need spacers up front and brake grinding in the rear to clear.
I went with Pro Star XPs so I would not have to deal with this problem but the XPs are only available in 5.5 BS and with my 15x10 inch rim they stick out some. I have 15x6 on the front and they look right on.
Again this is with a bit heavier XP so if you go with regular 15 inch welds you will have to modify some to get them to fit no matter what size you go with.
Also keep in mind that with the Prostars you will need longer wheel studs to pass tech at alot of tracks. Especially with the spacers on the front. Even the 2 1/2" long press in replacements won't come all the way through the lug nuts. Mike
I'll tell you what I did and you can decide if its the right choice for you.
Spacers - you should be able to get them alot of places, mine came with the wheels. 5/16 thickness.
Studs - from Summit, bought Moser 1/2-20 x 3" screw in. They have threads all the way to the end of the bolt, no lead in. They have a socket head. These I installed in the rear axle. You either have to pull the axles out or grind a deep groove into the caliper bracket (that's what I did) for clearance to install the stud from the back.
Due to order screw up I got something different for the front. I bought ARP 1/2-20 x 3" studs. They come with a 12 point head and have @ 1/4" lead in on the end. They are JUST long enough with the spacers. And quite frankly, I liked them better than the Moser studs. I removed the front bearing assemblies and installed the studs at the workbench. Much easier to work there.
To install these I bought a helicoil kit, drilled out the holes to the right size, tapped holes with helicoil tap, installed helicoils with Loctite and cut off the excess length, screwed in the studs with more Loctite and torqued to @ 70 lb/ft.
Then you need the correct lugs for the Prostars with 1/2-20 threads. Shank length is 1.301 I believe. I bought the wrong lugs and had to have them machined to fit. PITA.
Its alot of work. Unless you are pretty serious, I would recommend that you get wheels that don't require use of a longer stud. If you want I can email you pics of my setup. I'm changing tires later this evening. Mike
Spacers - you should be able to get them alot of places, mine came with the wheels. 5/16 thickness.
Studs - from Summit, bought Moser 1/2-20 x 3" screw in. They have threads all the way to the end of the bolt, no lead in. They have a socket head. These I installed in the rear axle. You either have to pull the axles out or grind a deep groove into the caliper bracket (that's what I did) for clearance to install the stud from the back.
Due to order screw up I got something different for the front. I bought ARP 1/2-20 x 3" studs. They come with a 12 point head and have @ 1/4" lead in on the end. They are JUST long enough with the spacers. And quite frankly, I liked them better than the Moser studs. I removed the front bearing assemblies and installed the studs at the workbench. Much easier to work there.
To install these I bought a helicoil kit, drilled out the holes to the right size, tapped holes with helicoil tap, installed helicoils with Loctite and cut off the excess length, screwed in the studs with more Loctite and torqued to @ 70 lb/ft.
Then you need the correct lugs for the Prostars with 1/2-20 threads. Shank length is 1.301 I believe. I bought the wrong lugs and had to have them machined to fit. PITA.
Its alot of work. Unless you are pretty serious, I would recommend that you get wheels that don't require use of a longer stud. If you want I can email you pics of my setup. I'm changing tires later this evening. Mike
Front:
Weld Pro-Stars:
15x3.5", 1.75" backspace. I used 5/16" aluminum spacers. Lingenfelter and LPE sell 2.67" 12mm studs with the correct knurl for the front. But 2.67" is the threaded portion. There is another 1/2" on top of that of unthreaded length. The threaded portion just barely meets NHRA requirements for "one diameter equivalent of thread engagement in the hex portion of the nut". It leaves you with the end of the stud sticking way out of a stock wheel. I also think the wheels are too close to the edge of the fender with the spacers. A 2.25" backspace wheel would be better if they made them, but I don't think they do.
I run Moroso DS-2 26x4.5" tires
Rear:
15x10", 7.5" backspace. Grind caliper fins. With the Strange 12-bolt, I was able to use a 3x1/2-20 screw in stud. Sticks out of the "street" wheel lug also. Tires were 28x11.5 Hoosier QTP's, and I had to move the axle back about 1/4" to prevent tire growth above 125mph from putting the tread into the sheet metal at the front of the fender/wheel opening. Other than that no problems. The similar 28" ET Streets are actually only 27.6", so it makes the fit even easier.
Here's the above combo.
Weld Pro-Stars:
15x3.5", 1.75" backspace. I used 5/16" aluminum spacers. Lingenfelter and LPE sell 2.67" 12mm studs with the correct knurl for the front. But 2.67" is the threaded portion. There is another 1/2" on top of that of unthreaded length. The threaded portion just barely meets NHRA requirements for "one diameter equivalent of thread engagement in the hex portion of the nut". It leaves you with the end of the stud sticking way out of a stock wheel. I also think the wheels are too close to the edge of the fender with the spacers. A 2.25" backspace wheel would be better if they made them, but I don't think they do.
I run Moroso DS-2 26x4.5" tires
Rear:
15x10", 7.5" backspace. Grind caliper fins. With the Strange 12-bolt, I was able to use a 3x1/2-20 screw in stud. Sticks out of the "street" wheel lug also. Tires were 28x11.5 Hoosier QTP's, and I had to move the axle back about 1/4" to prevent tire growth above 125mph from putting the tread into the sheet metal at the front of the fender/wheel opening. Other than that no problems. The similar 28" ET Streets are actually only 27.6", so it makes the fit even easier.
Here's the above combo.
i was thinking of installing 26x10.5x15 et streets on the rear and 26x4x15's on the front do you think those will fit didnt really want to go with the 28 in the rear or will going with the 26's all around make the stance of the car look funny


