Anyone with an Autometer A/F ratio gauge
The gauge is essentially worthless. Trust me, take it from someone who knows. Unless you're going to invest in a wideband O2, theres no need for it.
It is basically an indicator of whether you are in open or closed loop. Other then that, it's just a light show.
If you want some worthwhile gauges, get one of these:
-Fuel Pressure
-Oil temp or Cylinder Head temp
-Trans temp (autos)
-Vacuum Pressure
These can actually provide you with some useful information and can help you monitor crucial areas.
OK, people like you either aren't actually reading and/or thinking about what I'm saying here, or just don't care to think about ways other than their own.
Once again, I DO NOT use my gauges as precise measurements or tuning tools. For what I'm using the gauges for, a dyno tune would be a complete waste of money, more so than a giant rear wing and 13" Daytons for the car. A dyno tune only is a chance to ensure that the engine is running to it's fullest potential at the time of the tune. It does absolutely nothing in the way of informing me of future malfunction or outright failure.
Once again, I DO NOT use my gauges as precise measurements or tuning tools. For what I'm using the gauges for, a dyno tune would be a complete waste of money, more so than a giant rear wing and 13" Daytons for the car. A dyno tune only is a chance to ensure that the engine is running to it's fullest potential at the time of the tune. It does absolutely nothing in the way of informing me of future malfunction or outright failure.
OK, people like you either aren't actually reading and/or thinking about what I'm saying here, or just don't care to think about ways other than their own.
Once again, I DO NOT use my gauges as precise measurements or tuning tools. For what I'm using the gauges for, a dyno tune would be a complete waste of money, more so than a giant rear wing and 13" Daytons for the car. A dyno tune only is a chance to ensure that the engine is running to it's fullest potential at the time of the tune. It does absolutely nothing in the way of informing me of future malfunction or outright failure.
Once again, I DO NOT use my gauges as precise measurements or tuning tools. For what I'm using the gauges for, a dyno tune would be a complete waste of money, more so than a giant rear wing and 13" Daytons for the car. A dyno tune only is a chance to ensure that the engine is running to it's fullest potential at the time of the tune. It does absolutely nothing in the way of informing me of future malfunction or outright failure.

The gauge provides an annoying psychedelic light show, and provides little useful info. I can't imagine the annoying visual effect of having a pair of them with LED's dancing in an arc. I can get the same info with my ScanMaster, and check on ~20 other engine sensors and PCM operating parameters at the same time.
A wide-band is a good investment, unfortunately a bit on the expensive side. A narrow-band A/F ratio gauge is a gimmick.... a pair of them... well....
Scanmaster - like all laptop based tools - great, but I can't imagine anything being more intrusive than a laptop sitting in front of me on the dash displaying 20 different things on the screen. The only things I want detailed readouts on while I'm driving is speed and RPM. Everything else - high, low, or OK. I prefer to watch where my car is pointed than what a bunch of gauges are telling me.
As far as the A/F, I'd be perfectly happy with two LEDs, one for lean and one for rich. If I want to know detailed specifics, then I hook up the datalogger and look at it after a run. I don't have a dancing light show - the stoic parts of my gauges are blocked off. I occasionally see amber and red LEDs blip, I see it as no different than having a radar detector on the dash.
As far as the A/F, I'd be perfectly happy with two LEDs, one for lean and one for rich. If I want to know detailed specifics, then I hook up the datalogger and look at it after a run. I don't have a dancing light show - the stoic parts of my gauges are blocked off. I occasionally see amber and red LEDs blip, I see it as no different than having a radar detector on the dash.
Scanmaster - like all laptop based tools - great, but I can't imagine anything being more intrusive than a laptop sitting in front of me on the dash displaying 20 different things on the screen. The only things I want detailed readouts on while I'm driving is speed and RPM. Everything else - high, low, or OK. I prefer to watch where my car is pointed than what a bunch of gauges are telling me.
As far as the A/F, I'd be perfectly happy with two LEDs, one for lean and one for rich. If I want to know detailed specifics, then I hook up the datalogger and look at it after a run. I don't have a dancing light show - the stoic parts of my gauges are blocked off. I occasionally see amber and red LEDs blip, I see it as no different than having a radar detector on the dash.
As far as the A/F, I'd be perfectly happy with two LEDs, one for lean and one for rich. If I want to know detailed specifics, then I hook up the datalogger and look at it after a run. I don't have a dancing light show - the stoic parts of my gauges are blocked off. I occasionally see amber and red LEDs blip, I see it as no different than having a radar detector on the dash.
Scanmaster - like all laptop based tools - great, but I can't imagine anything being more intrusive than a laptop sitting in front of me on the dash displaying 20 different things on the screen. The only things I want detailed readouts on while I'm driving is speed and RPM. Everything else - high, low, or OK. I prefer to watch where my car is pointed than what a bunch of gauges are telling me.
As far as the A/F, I'd be perfectly happy with two LEDs, one for lean and one for rich. If I want to know detailed specifics, then I hook up the datalogger and look at it after a run. I don't have a dancing light show - the stoic parts of my gauges are blocked off. I occasionally see amber and red LEDs blip, I see it as no different than having a radar detector on the dash.
As far as the A/F, I'd be perfectly happy with two LEDs, one for lean and one for rich. If I want to know detailed specifics, then I hook up the datalogger and look at it after a run. I don't have a dancing light show - the stoic parts of my gauges are blocked off. I occasionally see amber and red LEDs blip, I see it as no different than having a radar detector on the dash.
Obviously, you're happy with idiot lights.... and knowing that your engine is "rich" when you go WOT. Of course that A/F meter only tells you that its richer than stoichiometric, so if you are happy knowing that your engine is running at maybe 14.5:1 at WOT......
..... go for it. And you've taped off part of the gauge? This make no sense at all.If you like what you have, fine. You told us about it, andthe guy who asked the question is free to decide if he wants the same thing. You're entitled to your opinon. But don't start accusing anyone who doesn't happen to agree with you of being closed minded, or apparently to ignorant or stupid to see your point of view.
You can never have too much info about your engine.
Last edited by Injuneer; Mar 11, 2007 at 04:30 PM.
Scamaster
You can also see how much engine vacumn your pulling when you subtract the BAR from MAP.This item is amust on the lt1 cars as it is very helpful for monitoring KR. One ? about the scanmaster, when the injector pulsewith is different from the l/r does this mean that the injector(s) on that side are restricted or partially plugged?Any reply,s are most appreciated.
No... if the left and right injector pulse widths are different, it means the long term fuel corrections (BLM's) are different on the two banks of the engine.
Note also that you have to look at the average of the pulse widths over several seconds. Because the two banks of the engine operate independantly in closed loop, its possible that one bank is making the swing from lean to rich at the same time the other bank is working from rich to lean, so the pulse widths at any instant in time can be different. But over a period of several seconds, they should be close to each other. In power enrichments mode (PE, ~WOT) the pulse widths are more stable and can be compared side by side in any data frame. Remember though, the scanner does not take a "picture" of all the sensors at the same time. It steps through the data stream one element at a time, so there is a small time lag from one sensor's data to the next sensor's data.
Note also that you have to look at the average of the pulse widths over several seconds. Because the two banks of the engine operate independantly in closed loop, its possible that one bank is making the swing from lean to rich at the same time the other bank is working from rich to lean, so the pulse widths at any instant in time can be different. But over a period of several seconds, they should be close to each other. In power enrichments mode (PE, ~WOT) the pulse widths are more stable and can be compared side by side in any data frame. Remember though, the scanner does not take a "picture" of all the sensors at the same time. It steps through the data stream one element at a time, so there is a small time lag from one sensor's data to the next sensor's data.
And Asylist, you need to chill out. Especially when addressing Injuneer. He has helped more ppl on this board then you've had dumb ideas. We are giving you honest info; the A/F ratio gauge is worthless for your application. I'm sorry, but it is. Please do not insult senior members of this site and give bad/false information in an attempt to think you are correct.
I'm dating myself here since its been a long time since I've had my LT1 and the scanmaster, but I don't think there is anything specific for fuel restriction, other then a fuel related trouble code. There is a really good link to a LT1 Scanmaster guide floating around somewhere. Injuneer may know of it, or else try a search. It has VERY useful info on each function of the Scanmaster.
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http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/ScanMast.htm
There is nothing specific to the injectors, other than a check of the continuity of the injector electrical cricuits. If an injector fails electronically, you get a code for a faulty circuit. But it doesn't even tell you which injector, only that there is a fault somewhere on the circuit that supplies all 8 injectors.
If your injectors are plugged, reducing fuel flow, you'll see the long term fuel corrections (BLM's) going above 128. If they are leaking, it will sometimes cause the BLM's to drop below 128, since the excess fuel flowing out of the cylinders consumes some of the limited O2 in the exhaust gas, the O2 sensor sees that as a rich condition, and the PCM starts to pull fuel out. But its all "implicit", not explicit, and there are any number of problems that will have the same effects on the BLM's.
INJUNEER thanks again for the info. Idon,t have any codes for injector problems and thanks for the link.On pg 4 of the scanmaster manual it shows the range values but where would you find info. on the values that you should be trying to achieve? Thanks for any replys.
not to add fuel to the fire but i have one of the gages and its pretty much useless. i got mine when i first got a nitrous kit to try n monitor stuff but just driving it just swept back n forth and at w.o.t it was always rich. only thing i got from it was alot of compliments lol. ya have to make ya own decision about what ya want but if i were you i would go with the wide band setup. im trynna find a good price on one myself.


