I'm going to swap in a K&N air filter that attaches directly to the front of the throttle body and completely eliminates the air intake tube/elbow. What I'm wondering is, for guys who have done this, where did you mount your IAT sensor?

 

if anything your gonna loose power and some topend too. with the air filter right there it has no time to build up any "inerita" and thus wont have much flow once it hits the plenum. but if your stuck on doing this then just put the iat in the top of the cone on the k and n but dont get mad when you loose some power

 

What about your MAF????

 

Maybe he has a 93 and not have to worry about the MAF? We have no way to know. A "signature" with the basic info about your car.... year, model, tranny, any major mods.... generally helps people answer your questions.

What are you talking about.... "build up inertia"? The plenum is there to decouple the effects of the intake track from the intake runners. What inertia do you want to build? You want the shortest, most direct, lowest pressure loss path you can find. The stock WS6 setup is a good example.

Biggest problem I see is the filter is going to be pulling hot air directly off the back of the radiator and the rest of the engine compartment. That will cause you to lose power.

 

Agreed!

 

Might gain a little over a stock setup due to being freer flowing but nowhere near as much as possible due to the heat Fred mentioned. Ever notice your car feels more powerful when it is cooler out? Imagine it getting air easily over 100 degrees all the time once at operating tempature.

 

I have a 95 that's been programmed for speed density. The plan later on is to open up the hood scoop in my ram air hood and make it functional to alleviate the heat soak problem. I'm not too worried about top end power loss at the moment because it'll only be temporary. Would you see any problems with extending the IAT sensor wire to have it mounted in the place where the stock air filter used to reside? Thanks for the feedback.

 

ok this one is long but it should solve the problem. instead of hooking it up you can put a 4.7 ohm resister in the sockets. this will trick the computer into thinking the air is a constant 47 degrees. this way you won't effect your comp. by mounting it so close to the tb. below is where i got the idea.

http://www.f-body.com/forum/attachme...s=&postid=8872

pic
The whole purpose of this thread is to fool the PCM into believing the incoming air is colder than what it is... If you want to be acurate you must have your IAT as close to the TB as possible for speed density. For MAF usage, idealy you would want the IAT inside the MAF so your PCM knows the exact air temp as is crosses the heated filament and can more accurately measure how much energy takes to keep the filament at a given temp above incoming air temp (Z06 MAF).


If you want to Keep the PCM from retarding timing why dont you guys work on the signal from the Knock Sensor? I believe there is a post here that explains how to rig the resistors....

Another thought of mine... If the IAT gets heat soaked and the PCM thinks the air is hotter than it is ... wouldnt it retard the timing instead? someone here said It will cause the engine to knock and ping, that happens when you have too much timing...or bad gass but not when you remove total timing. I dont know how to explain the PCM removing timing and the car detonating at the same time (unless your fuel mix is too lean).
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How to conect in series... ok here it goes... you have two wires and one IAT, Imagine this picture, electricity flows from one wire all the way to the IAT, goes across the IAT and then it returns to the PCM. Now Imagine this path with a series resistor connected to it ready? electricity flows from the PCM to one wire all the way to the added resistor....then comes out of the resistor other end and flows to the IAT, then it flows through the IAT and finally goes back to the PCM using the other wire that remained untouched. got it?

One last thing... you wont feel a thing after you either replace the IAT with the 4.7k ohm resistor or connect the 500 ohm in series resistor... Only way to find out is if you can measure at what point the engine begins to pull timing and then compare one to the other.

sorry for the late reply.

Marvin[/QUOTE]


Bypass the IAT sensor with a 4.7K ohm resistor.

Here is a picture of the sensor
http://shbox.com/1/iat.jpg

Just unplug it, bend the resistor into a "U" shape, stick the ends in the plug on the harness end, wrap it in tape and stick it in a film canister for protection.

This will fool your computer into thinking it is always 52 degrees outside, resulting in better performance due to a better mixture. You know how your car always seems more responsive when it ic cold? with this mod it feels like that all the time!

The resistor can be purchased at Radio Shack for next to nothing. You'll get a package containing about 20 of them for $3.

 

Some really bad advice with the resistor.

Why would you want to trick a speed-density PCM into thinking the air is 47degF (or 52degF)? The PCM must know the exact inlet air temperature to compute the "density" part of the speed-density air/fuel calculations. You tell the PCM the correct IAT, an use your programming to get the correct A/F ratio. You don't "fool" the PCM.

As far as the location of the IAT for an MAF setup (and I realize now that "thesoundandthefury" is not using an MAF), the stock LT1 MAF has the temperature sensing built into it. It has to have that to know how much to heat the wires above the incoming air temperature, so it can calculate the heat loss to the incoming air via the Wheatstone bridge circuit. The Z06 MAF simply combines the external IAT with the one that is already built into the MAF, to reduce costs.

I run speed-density on my 94. I have the Ram Air hood, and the SLP version of the WS6 airbox (identical except for the "Ram Air" and "Pontiac" logos). Opening up the hood scoop baffles, opening up the air box cover, using a filler piece for the missing MAF, and the Fernco sewer pipe connector in place of the cheesy corrugated bellows that comes with the WS6 setup, I think I've got just about the shortest possible path, while insuring that the filter only sees cold outside air, and nothing from the engine compartment. I have the IAT sensor mounted in the stock WS6 location in the airbox.

 

so if this where not a speed density car would it still be dumb?

 

Let the computer make the desicions.

 

......thanks, that explains a lot

 

Kinda defeats the purposed.

 

Dont trick the computer if you have a tune on it it knows best, if it is hot outside the computer will adjust instead of dumping more fuel in there wich is doing nothing for you anyway. If it was cold outside colder than 52 or what ever the stat was you will run lean. It is best to just leave it be.

 

sounds good