One of my screws is stripped, impossible to get it out. The one going to the t-stat is fine and i've bled it a few times.

Replaced the wp gaskets and coolant while I replaced the opti. Car runs great besides the fact that its overheating now probably due to the fact that I can't bleed the other screw. When I turn the heat on no hot air comes out just room temp. So looks like no coolant is going through heater core.

So is there any other ways to do this?

 

When I drain my block, I always fill the block through the t'stat housing first, then replace the thermostat, fill the radiator and then bleed. If the threads are stripped, it seems a it could pose a compromise in the cooling system.The bleeder valve assy is not an expense item...compare that to a new opti should that valve fail on you.
Replace it. Your local GM dealer should have it.

 

It seems that the previous owner possible replaced the screw with an allen screw and thats why I can't get it out. The inside of the screw is stripped but the actual threads don't seem to be compromised.

 

you can get a coolant bleeder system .......i,ve seen them for like 20......it basically a funnel that connects tight implace of radiator cap...put in fluid past where it full run the car and it will keep itself full and allow the air to escape....used it at the last shop i worked at on every car including mine...they work flawless if you can find one

 

I only found those tools for 60 bucks at best. Anyone else have any more ideas?

 

Replace the bleeder screw.

I would bet you have a clogged heater core that is causing your no heat problem, though. You just need to flush it.

 

I agree with Shoebox, if you take notice, the heater core lines go up down and all around, wifes car had the same problem, I disconnected the hoses from the pump/engine and "purged" them with my gardern hose with a hose adapter, you should of seen all the sh..crap come out, I just hope it wasn't the inside of the heater core...stay strong heater core...stay strong.
You may wanna repeat this numerous times, mine reclogged after flushing and reconnecting. Before that, make sure coolant level is properly serviced, low coolant = no heat most of the time.

Good luck!

You can feel the hoses to get an idea of where the coolant flow is stopping when the vehicle is at operating temperature.

 

I fill mine at the t-stat as stated before then topped off at radiator. Never had a problem. Those bleeder screws are useless.

 

rudedog is right I met a guy earlier this year that's been doing the same thing since he's own the car. He has never bleed the system before.
-b

 

Try this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AirLi...QQcmdZViewItem

I have one, it's the best possible tool. Perfet bubble free fill every time. It works on all cars, so you can use it long after your f-body is gone. These retail for around $90, maby you can get a deal on the one in the link.