Any one with a 12 Bolt Moser please Read
Any one with a 12 Bolt Moser please Read
How is the ride with your moser 12 bolt? is it same as stock? do you need better shocks that stock?
My moser seems to ride a little rough. but i did install the BMR pan hard rod and control arms at the same time. but since the install im getting this knocking sound when i hit hard bumps and it vibrates at about 80 and up. the drive shaft was also balanced and got new U joints. and last week i replaced the wheel bearings and that helped a little.
Any one else expirencing a diffrent type of ride? thanks for any replys!!!
My moser seems to ride a little rough. but i did install the BMR pan hard rod and control arms at the same time. but since the install im getting this knocking sound when i hit hard bumps and it vibrates at about 80 and up. the drive shaft was also balanced and got new U joints. and last week i replaced the wheel bearings and that helped a little.
Any one else expirencing a diffrent type of ride? thanks for any replys!!!
I did a lot of research about the Moser before I bought a 12 bolt and everyone agreed there was a certain amount of whine from the rearend. Instead of setting it up at Moser, I set it up locally and the whine is hardly noticeble except a little more on the decel. I am very happy with the Moser product !
Did you check the driveshaft length? Several people have run into problems by not having the stock DS length shortened when using the Moser 12-bolt. If you've got the DS bottoming out in the tranny, might explain the knocking and vibration.
You also might want to look at the bolts at the top of the torque arm mount, and see if they are hitting the tunnel on heavy bumps.. another common problem.
You also might want to look at the bolts at the top of the torque arm mount, and see if they are hitting the tunnel on heavy bumps.. another common problem.
aaaahhhhhh that sounds like 2 good places to look!!! thanks
how long should the drive shaft be??? moser said i didnt need to shorten it.
and if the bolts are hitting how do i fix that???
thanks again Injuneer
how long should the drive shaft be??? moser said i didnt need to shorten it.
and if the bolts are hitting how do i fix that???
thanks again Injuneer
Originally posted by FormulaW66
aaaahhhhhh that sounds like 2 good places to look!!! thanks
how long should the drive shaft be??? moser said i didnt need to shorten it.
and if the bolts are hitting how do i fix that???
thanks again Injuneer
aaaahhhhhh that sounds like 2 good places to look!!! thanks
how long should the drive shaft be??? moser said i didnt need to shorten it.
and if the bolts are hitting how do i fix that???
thanks again Injuneer
You need at least 1/2" clear before the DS bottoms out against the tranny when you push it in from the "normal" location. That is for a bolt-on motor. Once you go to a power adder, you want at least 3/4" to 1" clear on the DS.
The TA bolts hitting the DS tunnel isn't unusual, and if you have an aftermarket TA, the mounting bolts for the rod ends to the rear brfacket are probably going to have to be reversed, so only the bolt heads are on the side that can hit. Did it with my Strange.
Originally posted by Injuneer
The TA bolts hitting the DS tunnel isn't unusual, and if you have an aftermarket TA, the mounting bolts for the rod ends to the rear brfacket are probably going to have to be reversed, so only the bolt heads are on the side that can hit. Did it with my Strange.
The TA bolts hitting the DS tunnel isn't unusual, and if you have an aftermarket TA, the mounting bolts for the rod ends to the rear brfacket are probably going to have to be reversed, so only the bolt heads are on the side that can hit. Did it with my Strange.
ill check the DS length this weekend. thanks for the help. if there is anything elses anyone things of please post!!!
Originally posted by 96SilverRam
Injuneer, what are you measuring ?? The measuremnet from the tail shaft of the tranny to the edge of the driveshaft snout. The amount you can see between the two ?? You have me wondering now ?? Mike
Injuneer, what are you measuring ?? The measuremnet from the tail shaft of the tranny to the edge of the driveshaft snout. The amount you can see between the two ?? You have me wondering now ?? Mike
Might seem like a lot, but when you launch, the LCA's are going to compress the bushings, and the axle will move forward relative to the body. The more torque you are putting to the rear wheels, the more its going to compress (discounting rod end LCA's). The "length" of the DS (or actually the insertion of the splined tube into the tranny) will also change as the body moves up and down over the rear axle assembly - you can also remeasure the clearance with the axle at full drop to see if it changes. And who knows what direction the motor is going to move when it torques. Gotta have some free play in the shaft or it is going to do damage.
Originally posted by LYSFASTZ
So Fred which one is the better rear end in your opinion? And why?
So Fred which one is the better rear end in your opinion? And why?
-completely "plug-and-play". Fully assembled, lubed, run-in
-no alterations to any other parts required. DS length is stock, LCA clips are same weight as stock, brake mounting plates already installed.
-no noise from my Strange. Setup was near perfect.
-proven to stand up to 800-950HP with no problems.
-no need for new sway bar mounts since axle tubes a stock diameter.
-stock like TA mount
The big downside to the Strange is the long wait for delivery. When I bought mine, it was promised in 30 days by T. Byrne Motorsports, and it arrived in 30 days. There was a problem with Strange failing to install the reluctor gear on my HD posi, and they bent over backwards to replace the complete carrier (the gear is machined into the carrier, not bolted on), at a shop of my choice, with absolutely no cost to me, and with a full guarantee on the shop's work.... I couldn't believe how apologetic they were for their error. Beyond that "problem", it is a totally care-free unit.
Stock TQ arm will hit the left Parking brake cable holder. If your car is lowered it is bad if stock not so bad at all.
The stiffer ride comes from the axle tubes not flexing like the stock ones did. I noticed it the moment I pulled the car out of the shop.
Good luck!
The stiffer ride comes from the axle tubes not flexing like the stock ones did. I noticed it the moment I pulled the car out of the shop.
Good luck!
Originally posted by 96SilverRam
agree with injuneer about Moser hitting the tunnel housing. I had to reshape the tunnel a little bit to get mine to stop hitting at the housing.
agree with injuneer about Moser hitting the tunnel housing. I had to reshape the tunnel a little bit to get mine to stop hitting at the housing.
I am the one that posted the Moser 12 bolt warning. Basically the stock shaft shattered the output shaft of my transmission.
1. My DS was shortened just shy of an inch.
2. The clunking probably is not the DS but the sway bar hitting the TA cover. I am looking to find a larger sway bar but Sphon sells a sway bar spacer kit for the moser rearend. My still hits on larger bumps unless I drive the car like a low-rider "sucks!" but I will fix this once I find a better rear sway bar that is large enough to not hit the cover or buy the spacer kit.
3. I have moderate whine from my rear end. It also vibrates relatively bad over 85MPH. I am having my gears checked and/or reset by a local shop. Moser said any setup problems from them would be paid by them to my local shop to do the repair. I know plenty of posts that mention gears setup too tight from moser. Once reset correctly, the rear end whine is gone and vibrations are down. If your running 3.73 or taller gear, expect some vibrations at high speeds. That is a trade off, faster takeoff = lower top end speed.
I love my rearend but I am sure I will love it more once my gears are reset
. It would of been nice to be warned of the sway bar and the DS issues on the front end. The DS problem cost me 2500 for a rebuilt tranny but it was an excuse to get a perf rebuild on it with hi perf parts in the tranny, pressure boost and a shift kit 
Let us know what you find! Good luck and feel free to email me at vogel18@comcast.net if you want to talk about our experiences on this axle and trade information.
1. My DS was shortened just shy of an inch.
2. The clunking probably is not the DS but the sway bar hitting the TA cover. I am looking to find a larger sway bar but Sphon sells a sway bar spacer kit for the moser rearend. My still hits on larger bumps unless I drive the car like a low-rider "sucks!" but I will fix this once I find a better rear sway bar that is large enough to not hit the cover or buy the spacer kit.
3. I have moderate whine from my rear end. It also vibrates relatively bad over 85MPH. I am having my gears checked and/or reset by a local shop. Moser said any setup problems from them would be paid by them to my local shop to do the repair. I know plenty of posts that mention gears setup too tight from moser. Once reset correctly, the rear end whine is gone and vibrations are down. If your running 3.73 or taller gear, expect some vibrations at high speeds. That is a trade off, faster takeoff = lower top end speed.
I love my rearend but I am sure I will love it more once my gears are reset
. It would of been nice to be warned of the sway bar and the DS issues on the front end. The DS problem cost me 2500 for a rebuilt tranny but it was an excuse to get a perf rebuild on it with hi perf parts in the tranny, pressure boost and a shift kit 
Let us know what you find! Good luck and feel free to email me at vogel18@comcast.net if you want to talk about our experiences on this axle and trade information.


