LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

another p0100 problem.

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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 05:35 PM
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ws6 beat's Avatar
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another p0100 problem.

Hello all. I have a 1996 ws6. the engine was rebuilt by the dealer at about 86k. I blew a head gasket and had the heads rebuilt and added a hotcam kit from scoggin. I added pacesetter lt, electric water pump, flowmaster muffler, k&n filter, spec stage 2 clutch. I had to get the os extenders because of the long tubes. I have code p0100, I searched and found that the common culprit is the pigtail. I am getting 12V for the pink wire. the fuse under the hood isn't blown. I did find that the yellow wire had a voltage of only .86V. I'm not sure what this means. I did have the pigtail disconnected. Anyone have any ideas. pleas help i haven't drove this car in about a year and i miss my baby.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 01:03 PM
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ttt
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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If you know someone with the same type car swap it out and see if the code comes back. Otherwise you could just buy a new one and see if it helps. They aren't that much and seem to go out more than they should. I think the corossion is what makes them fail.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 03:34 PM
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You test the yellow signal wire with the MAF plugged in. Should be 5V with the key on/engine off. Engine running, the voltage will drop but the exact voltage isn't important. The signal from the MAF is a variable frequency riding on the voltage. When the engine is running, if your multi-meter has a "frequency" scale, you would see about 2,600 Hz at idle.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 06:44 PM
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I tested the yellow wire with it plugged in. I am getting 1V. My dmm doesn't have a frequency tester. when i wiggled it a bit or disconnected the harness from the MAF sensor car cut off. It didn't do this before. I'm going to order 2 new harness' and see if this fixes it. Will soldering be fine with some heat shrink or is crimping better?

Also i bought a new MAF from auto zone and that did not fix the problem.
Old Feb 8, 2009 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ws6 beat
I tested the yellow wire with it plugged in. I am getting 1V. My dmm doesn't have a frequency tester. when i wiggled it a bit or disconnected the harness from the MAF sensor car cut off. It didn't do this before. I'm going to order 2 new harness' and see if this fixes it. Will soldering be fine with some heat shrink or is crimping better?

Also i bought a new MAF from auto zone and that did not fix the problem.
Soldering is always better than crimping. And don't use AZ sensors, use GM. A way to test the MAF is to gently tap on it with a screwdriver handle with the engine running. If the engine stumbles or misses, the MAF is bad.
Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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Will do thanks green. for now i'm waiting for the connectors to arrive. I did however get another maf and the ses light was still on. maybe i need both.
Old Feb 15, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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Just an update. turns out the pigtails were the problem. thank you all.
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