I have an automatic 1994 z28

put in manual fan switch (light switch hotwired to battery)april 2013

recently the ignition cylinder had started acting up.
I couldnt turn the key. finnaly turned it over started driving for about ten minutes downthehighway and notice the speedometer spiking in speed and dropping.
the battery guage was doing the same.

it took a **** and died on me while shortly afterbthe gauges started to derp.

my questions.

whats best way to go about troubleshooting andbfinding out the problem?
almosy poaitive the switch played big roll in this . drawing thay current cant be good.
I thrre fan switch on the market for 70 dollars. does hook up and not drain the battery? or will flipping thatswitnch also run my battery lower than normal like my toggle/light switch?

 

bump

 

Shoebox has a guide to adding a manual fan switch. Will not cause the battery to run down.

http://shbox.com/1/fan_sw_diagram1.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/fan_switch_wires.jpg

The ignition cylinder operates the ignition swithc via a connecting rod. Shoebox also has info on ignitions switch problems:

4th Gen F-body Ignition Switch Replacement

 

1. Get rid of the fan switch. Reconsider why you really need one.

2. Re-evaluate.

3. Ignition switch failure is common. It might need to be replaced. Instructions can be found on my Tech Page.

[edit] Fred sniped me while I was typing

 

ok. so replaced ignition cylinder and battery for timw being.

went to start it and itll start but it will only running if you hold the key in the run position other wise ot just dies and the key goes back off .

whats the problem now?

 

The ignition cylinder is not the ignition switch. The cylinder operates the switch via a connecting rod. The switch is a more likely source of the problem. Again, Shoevlbox has an ignition switch diagnostic/replacement guide on his website.

 

ok. so I replaced the cykinder because I could turnn the tumbler with out the key being in it. one of the wires was grounded to the column. the vats system does work. I left the key in the ignition in the accessory position for 30 min. the security light went off. took key out and put it back in and the security light came on for 4 seconds and then went off. went to proceed to start the car and still the same problem it starts and runs but you have to hold the key in the running position. I appreciate all the input. thursday I'm going to put in a new ignition switch. and hope that fixes it.


is it possible to put in New switch with out taking out the steering wheel?

tips and hints would help a lot. I also need some help with wiring the fans so that it doesn't run my battery low. I dint understand it.

 

Rob/Shoebox's comment, from the replacement procedure link I posted above:

 

is the fan switch even necessary?

 

Read Rob's response in post #4.

The PCM controls the fans based on coolant temp and A/C usage. A healthy cooling system is capable of controlling the.engine temperature based on PCM control. If you wanted to run the fans at the track for quicker cool down ths switch might be useful.

 

ok . just got back from a long night in the garage.

I replaced the switch without taking out the column. I unbolted the column and replaced the switch. it was a b**** and a half. I adjusted it made sure battery was charged. tumbler ignition turns smoothly. however now my security light keeps flashing and the car wont start not crank it's just nothing. all lights come on accessories but no .


I took proper procedure in measuring the old key and got reading of .681
I purchased a key and tested it and got the same .681

new key, new igition switxh, and cylinder. now I damn security light blinking and wont let me drive my baby.

I need and evrrything explained in lamens terms. I know I know im needy. butb it's my only of transportation. quick fixes?

 

See if you can get the same resistance reading at the two wires from the key cylinder under the column. This is mentioned in the VATS troubleshooting info on my website.

 

Sounds like a wire came off the key cylinder.

 

ok so im attempting to bypass the VATS system in my car to see if that will help me. my resistor reading on my key is .681

im not familiar really with how this works. what I read from shbox I cant understand.

also I know nothing of resistors. would a 680k ohm work to by pass? where exactly should I put the resistor?
will I have to solder?

 

The units of measurement are important here. Your key measured .681K ohms, which is 680 ohms. Meaning, the 680K ohms (680,000 ohms) resistor you asked about is way too high, and will not work. You need a value in the range of 654 to 728 ohms (as per Shoebox's chart).

It should be clear where to place the resistor from this picture.

VATS Bypass