o2 sensors wont make a difference if your going WOT. Im pretty sure at WOT it doesnt use them. Definatly get it tuned if you have not yet though, because there could be some extra power left on the table, then go from there.

 

It doesnt use the O2s at WOT, but it takes the last correction factor into WOT performance.

 

we went a few times, once from about a 50 roll, i started in 2nd gear.. i jumped ahead for a sec and then he was right back next to me...we didnt get a chance to go up too high, i think when we finished i had just hit 4th gear and was only about a fender ahead...i shift at around 6k or 6100 rpms..and im a good driver so it isnt that....all the other times from 55 or 60 id start in 3rd and it would be dead nuts even. And also i meant open loop..not closed. Also has a 160tstat, never gets near 180degrees...

edit - ill post the vids when i get home from school

 

heres the vid..sorry its so short, we barely got any good runs in b/c of traffic...on our closed course

 

That really sounds like a vacuum leak, get it fixed before trying anything else.

 

Shifting at 6k isn't helping your cause. You need to dyno the car and find out where the power is being made. Depending on how much head work you have, you should be shifting the car at 6400-6500 rpm. Notice how you were pulling on him in the beginning of the race? You shift at 6k and it drops you out of your power band and it gives him the chance to make things even. Doing a 55 punch in 3rd is just plain silly ; that is really putting you out of your power range. What gears do you have? The higher the gear, the more time you spend outside of your power range. Try again, from a 50 roll, in 2nd gear, and shift the car at 6500 rpm (or maybe even higher). You have the motor for it, why not give it a try?

 

I think sweet nailed it!

 

thanx for the info. i figured that i should be shifting a little higher. He wouldnt go from 50 b/c he said it was his dead spot. My car has the stock 3.42's. I'm pretty sure the rpm range for the cc503 is 1800-6200 i believe...I will def race him again from 2nd, up to the end of 4th. 4th gear is usually when i start pulling on people.
Hopefully the CAI that is on the way will help out a little also...i'm getting all the air out, but need to be able to take it in. How much of an increase should i see? most people estimate about 9-11rwhp

 

You need to get some 4.10's and wake the car up. With that kind of ratio (3.42:1), it takes longer for the car to rev through the gear, making your time out of the power band even longer.

The rpm range for that cam is given without headwork, so your peak should be even higher than that (depending on the amount of headwork you have). Put gears in it, dyno it, and post the results. We'll tell you what rpms to shift at.

 

Dre2013,
Whats up? from Ohio Myself born in Canton. Your car should be able to pull your buddys car with ease. My father has a 1996Z28 with 355/stockheads and cam. When I was putting 280 down with boltons I would pull him 2 cars tops to 120, now there is no comparrison with my heads and cam setup still running stock tune. Even running another buddy with 94Z28 headers/boltons he is not in the same ballpark. You need to check obvious knock sensor pulling timing, burnt plugs wires, improper valve adjustments, etc. I would love to meet you guys since we are about 2-3hours apart (in steubenville) You could even head this way and we could scan your TA with diag tool and go over her make sure nothing drastic sticks out. Also you could bolt my coldair on your ride see if its worth buying one or just make one. Friend might have a SLP coldair to get rid of since he sold that 94Z28.
Later,
Josh

 

hey whats up man, the cai should be here sometime today i am waiting on it to get here. I think the reason i didnt pull him is b/c we didnt get up to enough speed, and i was shifting too early. Right after i raced him i raced another friends 98TA with headers, stall, built tranny, ORY and a tune and we pulled dead even, that was with me shifting around 6200. It's got an LT4 KM, and new wires(which i checked the other day) so im pretty sure its not that. I'm def. down to meet up sometime when the weather is nicer

 

Only thing is that I also had the LT4 module and the thing still pulled a datscan verified 9*to 11* so I just wired the damn knock sensor out of the equation. You can use a 4700ohm resistor hooked to your PCM wire that went to your Knock sensor and just ground it. After I did this and scanned her it was not pulling any timing at all, you will not believe the difference in power My other buddy with the 94Z28 also had false knock and again my LT4 module in his car did very little in helping the false knock. We wired his car with the reisistor and it pulls like crazy for stock heads cam car. This same Z28 had mids,borla,coldair,fresh o2's plugs, and it was effected by false knock up to 5*-7*. Keep in mind that I did use 110 octane to verify this was indeed false knock. Also any little header leaks before the o2's cause hell on the power output also, huge difference fixing 2 little leaks at slip fit joint. Your car should just waste even a headers bolton ls1 car pretty good, I know the local bolton GTO guys hate my 12 year old POS. I might be up in canton during christmas time so email me (josh.manist@omeresa.net) and we will start b.s.ing shoot me one right now since I will be at work till 3:00.
Maybe I can call you and we will start going over your beast this weekend.
Later,
josh
Also remember I still run a stock tune on this thing, buds have GTP 11.90's at 109-111 spraying, pulleyed, blah blah. Another 5.0 running 12.10,12.15,12.12 on street tires. My old beat TA ran both of them down hard at the top of second third whatever so I think I have it running decent as we speak. Yours should be the same actually bigger cam in yours, plus I have some weight reduction done to it. Was 3790 now down to 3340 and still gutting

 

just had it out, feels like it doesnt really pull much past 6k rpms? gahhhhhhhhh

edit- im going to send the pcm out to ion @ madz28 here within the next few weeks, i was thinking about getting some 30lb svo injectors, would it be worth it? (i'll be running a 150 wet shot this spring also)

 

Yes the larger injectors will be a nice addition, make sure you get it tuned AFTER the injector swap. Buy them ,get the ECM tuned, install injectors with the new ECM tune.

 

The injectors would be nice, but I doubt you're maxing the stock ones out yet (probably getting close though). Do it in the order that WS Sick said. Also, a wet nitrous kit has nothing to do with injector size, just in case you weren't sure.