If you car is cold.
Your Engine will rin Pig Rich
Which lots of unburn Fuel on Cats
Cats go bad if lots of unburn at lower Temp.
AIR pump comes in blow air, which lean out the Exhaust unburn ratio, plus help cats come ideal operation TEMP!
Just leave it there. You wont gain a squat by taking out!

 

Thanks Fred for clearing that up but you didn't answer the main question. Do it need it???

And MisterHussein........it's just big and in there. I'm putting my motor back together and if I don't need it why put it in?

 

Some people, Mir included, "claim" that not having the AIR pump will cause premature failure of the cats. I personally have never seen any evidence of that. My approach - at least when my car was street driven - was to build an 800HP nitrous motor with full, functioning emissions - EGR, AIR, EEC, cats, etc - and to pass NJ rolling emissions. The stuff doesn't hurt performance in any way, except for a few # of extra weight. Only when my car became a "track only" car, did I remove any of that stuff. But that's just my personal preference.

 

Thanks Fred but in my position. If you were throwing a motor back in would you put it back?

 

well if you dont need to worry emissions, than there is no need for the air system to be there... i dont have to worry about emissions and i just ordered my pcmforless tuning, in which i told him to delete these things from my pcm. they will have no function. and as it was said before, it takes up a lot of room in the engine bay and it makes it look "ugly"... what i want to know is how to remove the air pump, and after that how and with what do i plug the hole where the pump once was????

 

Unhook the pump suction line from the air inlet duct. Cap the inlet duct connection with a 5/8" vacuum cap. Unscrew the AIR pipes from the exhaust manifolds. Plug the holes with a pair of M22 oil drain plugs (M18 on dual cat cars). Unplug the pump, making sure there is a good fuse in the circuit. On 93-95, that eliminates the SES light/code.

Three bolts hold the pump to the front of the engine (94 and later - 93 is different). Remove the bolts and the pump. Then start removing the hoses, hard lines and check valves. The only tricky part is the aluminum line under the front of the engine. That usually has to be cut in 1/2 at the bottom of the engine to remove the line.

 

Injuneer, You wont see it. But if you look one CAT with AIRPUMP and with no airpump you will see the SOME difference. Plus your HYDRO carbon will be SKY HIGH, when your engine is cold, compare to with With AirPump.
I love AIR so much, I have AIR stuff plugged in my car, and I have ORY What a waste
S.J.S. , You dont have to have it. Its only COLD Engine AID to warm up your cat and bring HydroCarbon down.
but if Emmision inspector is going to go by the Emmiosn Diagrham, he may fail ya. If you have 96+ PCM you need to reprogram your PCM

 

Oops, listen to fred not me. My explantation what how I thought it worked just from trying to figure it out, guess I was a little off. Now I know.

 

I'm with Fred on most of this stuff. I removed mine simply because I don't feel it does enough to be worth the trouble. Removing AIR gives some more space and removes minimal weight. Keep in mind that GM performed a recall on the '95-'96 ('97?) so you could get it fixed and updated free of charge.

Mir Hussain, that doesn't sound like a very scientific test. The fact of the matter is that even though extra fuel is being dumped on the converters, they haven't reached ignition and so there is no elevated temps to destroy them... in fact that's what the AIR system does. It will take longer for the cats to reach light off temp without an AIR system, which does marginally increase cold start pollution. I should also add that when I removed my AIR system I leaned out the cold start AFR.... only to help emissions and save gas

Two major things kill cats, elevated temps from excess O2 and fuel, and also contaminents such as lead.

 

Dont forget shotguns and 22s! haha

 

im pretty sure u can pass emmissions if u get it tested when the car is already warmed up or there is no sniffer test.at the local midas(pa)they dotn have a sniffer and it will pass inspection b/c the dude deosnt know something is missing anyway.i have one question though.i removed the air pump and all the rubber lines but i thoght the pipe going into the drivers side header is the egr or sumthin.can someone tell me if i can get rid of that too?does it run to the pass side header>?my emial is ledfootz28@hotmail.com if someone can walk me through it.

 

Hmmm.......
Let see if I can explain to you in different angle.
Think of a convection oven or hair dryer; or even newer freezer.
When air pass through it accelerate the temperature xfer.
That is why you can cook food faster in convection oven compare to conventional oven, due poor heat Xfer
Get it ameigo?

 

Where do I get those Oil pugs???

 

if its pumping clean air into the cat, wouldnt the o2 pick that up, and make the car run ultra rich since its thinking its running lean? (due to the extra air thats coming in...)

makes no sense

 

errrrr
When an Engine is in COLD state, PCM disregard the 02 and MAF become speed density