Was finishing up my heads/cam swap last night and went to adjust my rockers using the following method...

Piston #1 @ TDC
Adjust:
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8

Rotate crank 360* (piston #6 should be at TDC right?)
Adjust:
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7

Problem is, after i did the first set, and turned the crank 360*, most of the rockers i just tightened were loose.. What gives? I was half asleep so i may have just did it wrong,,

What does it sound like i did? Maybe had the wrong poston at TDC?



Thanks

 

I'm a fan of the engine running method. It's nowhere near as messy as people say since at idle you don't have a ton of oil coming out of the valve cover area.

Back 'em off one by one till they start clacking, slowly turn the nut until it stops clacking and then give it your preload.

 

Even for first startup? I was thinking i should adjust the valves with the car off for the first start and then once it's running ok, adjust while running.

 

I made sure none were "falling off the studs" loose, when the car started up it was fine to work with.

 

alright i shall do that. if i end up covered in oil i'm going to cry.

 

Suck it up If they're on too tight, the car won't start, just FYI.

 

What lifters did you use and did you use 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn , or 3/4 turn preload?

 

OEM style comp lifters, I went 1/8 turn.

 

I went 1/2 turn past zero lash. No problems here.

 

I just did my rockers and had the same issue. Leave what you just did as a "ball-park" setting, fire up the engine with the covers off and then readjust them with the engine running. And FYI, even after I adjusted mine with the engine running, the rockers still are a tad "loose" in that the move side so side a little if you push on them, but they are always netted to the push rods. I also went 1/4 turn and I have GMPP 1.6 and OEM lifter.

 

I don't really like the running method, everytime i have done it oil came out, and cleanup sucks. I always do the one cylinder at a time method where you watch for the exhuast lifter on a cylinder starts to open, then adjust the intake valve, then turn the motor over until the intake valve fully opens and is just about closed, and then adjust the exhaust valve. This is the way I have done it on everything and has worked good for me. I think this is also one of the methods on shoebox's tech pages as well.

 

THats normal. They will be tight as your first adjust them. As you turn it over by hand though, the lifters all bleed down. They will get that "play" in them from side to side. Nothing to worry about.

Do it with it running. Its 10million times easier, Just spin them all down till the poly lock is down and there is no play. Go 1/4 turn past, and your good to start it and readjust.

Also, once you set the preload, tighten the polylock with an allen, then turn the whole poly lock just to snug it up and ensure it will stay tight.

 

Running method takes about uuuuh, 2 minutes per side if that. It's really not that messy.

 

Use a piece of cardboard to keep the oil from flying everywhere. Works like a charm.

 

Yup. I also use the motor running method. I always start up a new motor without valve covers so I can jump in and tighten any loose ones or loosen any tight. I usually go 1/4 turn past 0 lash