I feel like a major moron here. Now that that is out of the way.

The reason my new engine would not start is because the opti timing was off. Let me explain.

My functioning GM opti I took off a previous running engine just needed cleaning and the bearing lubed and it would then be golden again. I took the opti completely apart including pressing the two piece shaft apart. I took the bearing seal off and packed the bearing with grease an re-assembled.

Here is what happened, I did not take into consideration that the two piece shaft that goes through the opti base MUST BE PROPERLY INDEXED or the ignition timing will be off. This is the reaon my old opti did not work on my new engine. I cant believe I wasted two full days as a result of this oversight. This clearly explains why I got the DTC 16 low res pulse error.

When I installed a brand new Accel opti the engine fired right up because the two piece shaft had never been tampered with.

I just indexed the two piece shaft using using the #1 on the back of the opti base as a reference point. I bolted the rotor button to the top shaft and pointed it at #1 location using the terminal in the cap as a reference point. I indexed the rear shaft and pointed it to the #1 on the back of the opti base. I then presse the two pieces back together.

I am thinking that when this process occurs during actual assembly of the opti in the factory that there is a range for the indexing to occur. I think if it is off a few degrees one way or the other then the PCM can compensate for this. Maybe I am wrong at it is super critical, this is what I need to know if anyone has the answer.

Using the above procedure this the engine is now running on this re-indexed opti spark. It will be a several days befor I can drive it. It looks like I have sved it.

Has anyone ever dove this deep into the opti and does this sound like I am now on the right track to saving this opti?

 

I have done it before....
I mark my stuff b4 I take it apart

Sounds like you got it tho, I have never had the mitsu pick-up go bad...just the cap .....

 

I will mark it next time, live and learn.
Again the engine is running but it wont idle and is missing, I still dont have it dean nuts on.


This is what I am talking about:


If anyone wants to sell me a used busted opti send me a PM. I just need the base and rotating shaft. I dont care about the cap, rotor and sensor. Just make sure the shafts have not been taken apart like in my photo above and the bearing is good.

 

The PCM has no way of knowing that the Opti is not indexed correctly. It can't "compensate".

 

They are designed to be sealed for life. No need to do this. Just buy a new bearing next time.

 

Most of the time, I like to keep my variables to a minimum. In this case, fooling around with the opti may have not been the best idea. You want a brand new engine to fire up right away.
There are many schools of thought, but driving it relatively hard (varying the load) ASAP for break-in seems to have the most backing right now. Excessive idling is not good for new engine break-in.

 

I'm also not sure why improper indexing would set DTC 16. Even if the indexing is off, as long as the optical module was healthy, it would still be putting out the correct low resolution data stream, and the PCM would have no way of knowing that the data stream wasn't indexed correctly to the cam and hence the crank. The PCM just looks for the low res pulse pattern, and if it can't find it in 2 revs of the crank, it sets DTC 16 and shuts down the fuel system.

I think you may have a problem with the optical module.

 

Nuff said then, alignment is critical. I bought a dirt cheap busted opti and have it on the way, it will be my reference tool plus the base will probobly get installed. I am going to build a jig so I can accurately reassemble the two disassembled ones that I have.

You still have to separate the two piece shaft to replace the bearing which requires re-aligning. The bearing has a removable seal that comes off cleanly in two seconds and can be repacked, I have done this lots on other machinery with non load bearing mechanisms.

It is possible that the sensor on the GM opti might be bad. I did a diode check on the leads against the known good one and the readings were not far off. Clearly what was going on for me was equal to installing the opti 120 degrees off resulting in the no start condition even though the dowell pin was in the right slot on the spinner. I also saw in the Haynes book that the altonator disconnected would throw the 16 code. Maybe that was it.

 

Well I think clearly it will be near impossible to salvage these two optis without a good one to work off of. The one I reassembled I think clearly has the timing way on the low side.

I have a used opti base on the way so I can build off of that. I am going to build a jig using it and try to re-align my two dismantled optis.

 

You didn't get it yet?
I had some extra stuff.....all you need is the pick-up, everything else is there, and works


Good luck

 

Did not show yet, I spent tonight putting the front end back together. It should show tomorrow. I really think I can reference off yours and get my other two back together.

I cant find anyone else that has done what I have done and was able to realign the spinner, but then again most dont take the opti apart to this level.

 

I don't think you will have a problem.....
You could just use the base...its still usable, If you could find the bearings and figure it out you could rebuild them from now on

 

Success,
The old opti showed up today. I stuck the stock cam in a vice and attached that worn out opti base with the rotor button screwed on. I then gaged the position of the rotor and applied that position to my opti and pressed the spinner back together. I think I am accurate to +- 1 degree and considering the opti has some slop when it attached to the timing cover before torquing that should be acceptable.

Before the re-alignment the engine ran like crap and after the re-alignment its runs great and actually idles. my second opti is fixed too.
Mdacton, Thanks for the help.

 

No prob bob

 

In my opti failures on my car its always been the optical sensor itself not the cap. Of course I do spin 6800ish.