About to put a rag in the gas tank of my Z28
#1
About to put a rag in the gas tank of my Z28
Hi guys I'm new to the forum but I can't seem to get an answer anywhere and I'm hoping somebody here might be able to help me before I decide to blow my car up.
I have a 94 Camaro Z28 LT1 A4.
Over a year ago I ripped the motor and tranny out of my car and rebuilt it over the past year, I got it all back together in February, it purred like a kitten. Haven't put it on the road yet cause I still need tires and February isn't really a good time to put a Z28 on the road in upstate NY.
About 2 weeks ago, I bought the OBD1 USB cable and TunerCat and the $EE definition file, I got everything so I could tune the computer, go figure I plug everything in, and the computer starts out in open loop but the thing ran like the biggest back of elephant crap and eventually stalled out. Next day, ran fine, didn't change anything on the PCM just read everything to make sure it was running good. Then, I get a DTC 50 (low voltage or whatever), thing stalls out, cranks cranks cranks no start, test the alternator, its shot.
I goto Autozone order an alternator, next day the present me with 2 alternators for my car, neither of which match my old one, nor do the bolt patterns match up. I have them look up an alternator for a 94 Corvette figuring that those alternators they showed me weren't for an LT1. They show me have them pull up a picture for me, matches perfectly, I have them order it, I brought the core with me so I could compare the bolt patterns everything seemed fine and matched.
I put the alternator in, charge the battery, try to start it, cranks, cranks, cranks, but doesn't turn over. When I did the rebuild, I put in an MSD opti, MSD ignition coil, and a new ICM, among other new parts including an A/C delete pulley, I checked the engine out realized that my belt was a little tighter than it was with the old alternator, and also noticed when I crank, the belt slips off the guides for the A/C delete pulley, even if I
So I guess my question is, could this be messing up my start, is the alternator in fact different from a Camaro? Any hints, answers, or even suggestions for me to things to check would be greatly appreciated because I'm seriously about to blow it up cause I feel I wasted a year + of work cause everytime I fix something something else completely craps out.
I have a 94 Camaro Z28 LT1 A4.
Over a year ago I ripped the motor and tranny out of my car and rebuilt it over the past year, I got it all back together in February, it purred like a kitten. Haven't put it on the road yet cause I still need tires and February isn't really a good time to put a Z28 on the road in upstate NY.
About 2 weeks ago, I bought the OBD1 USB cable and TunerCat and the $EE definition file, I got everything so I could tune the computer, go figure I plug everything in, and the computer starts out in open loop but the thing ran like the biggest back of elephant crap and eventually stalled out. Next day, ran fine, didn't change anything on the PCM just read everything to make sure it was running good. Then, I get a DTC 50 (low voltage or whatever), thing stalls out, cranks cranks cranks no start, test the alternator, its shot.
I goto Autozone order an alternator, next day the present me with 2 alternators for my car, neither of which match my old one, nor do the bolt patterns match up. I have them look up an alternator for a 94 Corvette figuring that those alternators they showed me weren't for an LT1. They show me have them pull up a picture for me, matches perfectly, I have them order it, I brought the core with me so I could compare the bolt patterns everything seemed fine and matched.
I put the alternator in, charge the battery, try to start it, cranks, cranks, cranks, but doesn't turn over. When I did the rebuild, I put in an MSD opti, MSD ignition coil, and a new ICM, among other new parts including an A/C delete pulley, I checked the engine out realized that my belt was a little tighter than it was with the old alternator, and also noticed when I crank, the belt slips off the guides for the A/C delete pulley, even if I
So I guess my question is, could this be messing up my start, is the alternator in fact different from a Camaro? Any hints, answers, or even suggestions for me to things to check would be greatly appreciated because I'm seriously about to blow it up cause I feel I wasted a year + of work cause everytime I fix something something else completely craps out.
#3
Yes I have, no codes present, however still tinking around with it I realized it won't crank when in neutral, only park, when I hold the key and neutral and nothing happens my radio goes off and my lights on the dash come on, such as low coolant, brake, abs, etc. Dunno if that'll help but it did start in neutral before this happened.
#4
So what your saying is it doesnt turn over at all?? OR it cranks or turns over but doesnt fire??
If it just doesnt TURN OVER or just CLICKS nothing, then starter is where you start. If it turns over but doesnt fire, check one of two things off the bat, fuel and spark. Then if you have both of those and still no go Timing or something in the PCM.
Good luck.
If it just doesnt TURN OVER or just CLICKS nothing, then starter is where you start. If it turns over but doesnt fire, check one of two things off the bat, fuel and spark. Then if you have both of those and still no go Timing or something in the PCM.
Good luck.
#5
Did you swap your old alternator pulley to the new Corvette alternator, or did it come with one? The Corvette serepentine belt spacing off the front of the engine is different than the F-Body, if I recall correctly.
#6
Venomous: It cranks but doesn't fire in park, doesn't crank at all in neutral. If it is there anything specific that could throw off my timing or should I just tweak the timing screw on my MSD 8183 Opti and have somebody else try to turn it?
Injuneer: No I didn't swap the pulley it came with one, if it is offset is there a place where I can buy the stock pulley by itself? Would this cause a no spark situation it rotates but the belt just rides on the guide of the A/C delete pulley.
Injuneer: No I didn't swap the pulley it came with one, if it is offset is there a place where I can buy the stock pulley by itself? Would this cause a no spark situation it rotates but the belt just rides on the guide of the A/C delete pulley.
#7
Not cranking in neutral means there is something wrong or mal-adjusted with your park/neutral switch.
The alternator has nothing to do with no spark. It should start with no alternator even present (with a good battery). An alternator's job is to recharge the battery and supply power for accessories after the engine is already running.
Have you actually checked for spark recently? A no start condition requires you at least check for proper spark and fuel pressure.
Crank and turn over mean the same thing to me. Fire (fires up) and start mean the same thing. I get confused when people say "it cranks, but won't turn over".
The alternator has nothing to do with no spark. It should start with no alternator even present (with a good battery). An alternator's job is to recharge the battery and supply power for accessories after the engine is already running.
Have you actually checked for spark recently? A no start condition requires you at least check for proper spark and fuel pressure.
Crank and turn over mean the same thing to me. Fire (fires up) and start mean the same thing. I get confused when people say "it cranks, but won't turn over".
#8
I agree, the alternator should have nothing to do with the engine not starting. When the engine is "turning over" it should be cranking, start or no start. An engine not turning over can be compared to a frozen engine, or a bad starter click click click click click
#9
I have checked for spark, I have no spark at the MSD ignition coil, I even replaced the ground wire.
I looked at the wiring schematics for the car and I noticed the TCC goes to the Coil could this be effecting both my neutral start and my spark?
I looked at the wiring schematics for the car and I noticed the TCC goes to the Coil could this be effecting both my neutral start and my spark?
#10
I don't know what schematic you are looking at, but the TCC has nothing to do with the coil and has no connection. You need to do some testing. Might be just a fuse.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test
#11
I was looking at the Haynes manuel, if I remember right it was a pink wire, I could have jumped a wire and mistaken it for that, I'm at work at the moment I'll double check when I get home.
Shoebox: Ha, I said box. My neighbor is gonna help me test it when I get home because he has a digital tester and I don't. But thanks for the direct link.
Shoebox: Ha, I said box. My neighbor is gonna help me test it when I get home because he has a digital tester and I don't. But thanks for the direct link.
#13
I got most of my parts from summit just the parts that would work just as good (ie radiator hoses, fuses, relays) and the alternator cause it had the warranty and it was on sale.
I actually looked on the website and they had the part on the website listed but it wasn't on the local autozones computers, funny thing is they didn't have to get this one from the hub because it was actually in stock. They gave me the normal one which fits the way my original one did, didn't tighten the bolts up all the way because its now pouring out, but tight enough to know the belt is back the way it was too.
I also got $6.00 back.
As for the testing can't really do that today cause of the rain either but my neighbor gave me his digital meter so I can do it if the rain stops or tomorrow when its sunny.
I actually looked on the website and they had the part on the website listed but it wasn't on the local autozones computers, funny thing is they didn't have to get this one from the hub because it was actually in stock. They gave me the normal one which fits the way my original one did, didn't tighten the bolts up all the way because its now pouring out, but tight enough to know the belt is back the way it was too.
I also got $6.00 back.
As for the testing can't really do that today cause of the rain either but my neighbor gave me his digital meter so I can do it if the rain stops or tomorrow when its sunny.
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