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Yeah wow, seems odd to mention this now. If the PCM was submerged, there isn't much of the car that wasn't (unless it was pointing severely nose down). Could even be dried silt inside the opti, disrupting the timing windows.
Pcm was on the car but not the opti when it flooded. Car ran ok when i got it running but like i told one guy one of the hoses on the water pump started leaking coolant and then the miss came up. So i checked it and #7 isnt firing.
Might be the ecm, might mot be since it ran fine before the hose leaked coolant.
At any point have you put a scanner on the PCM, and pulled the misfire counts by individual cylinder? You might find there are other cylinders beside #7 misfiring, just not as frequently.
If needed, I have a PCM from my 1997 WS6 I can sell to you for $190 shipped if you're interested. It was tuned by PCMforless. I no longer need it because I'm now running a TorqHead 24x system with a different motor setup. I don't know what's done to your car, but this PCM is tuned for the following:
Comp Cams 280XFI XTREME cam .230/.236.
AFR LT4 195 CNC Competition Ported Heads with 1.6 rockers.
Stock throttle body.
6spd manual and stock 3.42 gears.
Long-tubes with rear 02 sensors deleted.
All of the emissions crap deleted.
19 x 13 rear wheels / 345-30-19 tires.
39 lb SVO fuel injectors.
I had an LT4 knock sensor in it, but I pulled it out and sold it. Therefore you'd have to install your existing knock sensor.
If needed, I have a PCM from my 1997 WS6 I can sell to you for $190 shipped if you're interested. It was tuned by PCMforless. I no longer need it because I'm now running a TorqHead 24x system with a different motor setup. I don't know what's done to your car, but this PCM is tuned for the following:
Comp Cams 280XFI XTREME cam .230/.236.
AFR LT4 195 CNC Competition Ported Heads with 1.6 rockers.
Stock throttle body.
6spd manual and stock 3.42 gears.
Long-tubes with rear 02 sensors deleted.
All of the emissions crap deleted.
19 x 13 rear wheels / 345-30-19 tires.
39 lb SVO fuel injectors.
I had an LT4 knock sensor in it, but I pulled it out and sold it. Therefore you'd have to install your existing knock sensor.
Your setup is pretty close but not identical to mine so i would need to send it off again and pay them full price for the tune.
I wish they'd(pcmforless) give me a harvey affected customer discount 🤨 since i didn't even get to use it much. Still not sure its the pcm. Takin off the optispark now.
Thanks though
97sswcubes
Last edited by 97sswcubes; Jun 16, 2018 at 02:12 PM.
You only have to remove the damper/pulley portion, the hub does not have to be removed. Typical problem is rust on the hub, sometimes requires a 3-jaw or a crow foot (96/97) to get the damper/pulley loose.
Hey guy i thought you said i didn't have to remove the hub?
Im there now and the opti doesn't clear the hub. I'll remind you my opti is the 96-97 model and the shaft on the opti doesn't let me clear the hub(its aftermarket with circle flange) . Any tips on how to squeeze it out without pullin the hub?
Last edited by 97sswcubes; Jun 16, 2018 at 12:17 PM.
Well i had to pull the hub a few centimeters forward to get the optispark off the engine. Optispark internals look dry and new. Only thing i could notice is the burn on the post in the cap. One of the post was just getting spark, up top. The rest had the burn lower. Could it be the rotor is crooked or the ring that turns the rotor? Here's a picture
Id appreciate further advice
97sswcubes
Left burn is lower from the top
Right is almost at tip of post. I wonder if that post could be #7?
Last edited by 97sswcubes; Jun 16, 2018 at 02:09 PM.
Hey guy i thought you said i didn't have to remove the hub?
Im there now and the opti doesn't clear the hub. I'll remind you my opti is the 96-97 model and the shaft on the opti doesn't let me clear the hub(its aftermarket with circle flange) . Any tips on how to squeeze it out without pullin the hub?
Apparently you think this “guy” is stupid for not knowing you have non-stock parts. I guess you covered that detail in the “...etc. etc. ....” part of your first post. How stupid of me not to realize that “etc. etc.” translated to “aftermarket (damper) with circle flange”. And yes, I am familiar with the details of a vented Opti and it’s drive mechanism.... but thanks for reminding me. If you took the time to look at the Shoebox photo of the 3-jaw puller I linked in my response to your question about pulling the hub, you would have realized I was talking about a stock component.
In the future, I'll ignore your posts, to avoid irritating you.
Apparently you think this “guy” is stupid for not knowing you have non-stock parts. I guess you covered that detail in the “...etc. etc. ....” part of your first post. How stupid of me not to realize that “etc. etc.” translated to “aftermarket (damper) with circle flange”. And yes, I am familiar with the details of a vented Opti and it’s drive mechanism.... but thanks for reminding me. If you took the time to look at the Shoebox photo of the 3-jaw puller I linked in my response to your question about pulling the hub, you would have realized I was talking about a stock component.
In the future, I'll ignore your posts, to avoid irritating you.
SMH....
Hey guy, obviously you misinterpreted my writing and flew in a different direction..
I was literally hands on workin on taking apart the car then realized i couldn't budge the opti off with the hub on. Then i immediately replied to you and quoted you on i could remove the opti with the hub still on. After i looked up other opti removals and realized i have an aftermarket hub. Not stock eared hub. I had just replied to you in a hurry hoping i would get a quick response and get the damn opti off my car.
No need to get upset and i apologize for not elaborating on all my aftermarket parts. I too forgot i had an aftermarket hub.