Picked the car up 6 months ago and started repairing old parts (suspension, steering, sensors). 3 months in I replaced bank 1 and 2 front O2 sensors and got an array of codes. I've uploaded the list of codes I was getting. While idling rpms will jump from 1,050 to as low as 800. There was an audible misfire as well. My first decision was to take the wiring harness out and repair it, as it was cheaper alternative to buying a painless wiring harness. I went through replaced wires ( Both O2 connector, CPK connector, and the Knock connector). I tested and stripped every wire on it to make sure I replaced any wires that had damage to them. Sensors I replaced(Water temp sensor to PCM, CPK sensor, both O2 sensors, and the Knock sensor.) They were all in rough shape and needed it. Parts I've replaced since getting it.(Water pump housing, Radiator, Optispark) Recently I finished the project got the engine harness put back in and I'm having the same problem. I have checked the fuses and all grounds and cannot hone in on the problem.

 

Have you actually driven the car since the work was done? Many of the DTC tests can’t be run until the car is driven, and some will not run until the car has experienced a specific number of “drive cycles”. If I had to guess, the list is telling you which DTC's have not been run. P0100 appears to be the exception, and it failed.

 

Yes I have. I’ve been out twice for no more than 10 minutes each time. I stopped due to the severity of the misfire.

I’ll also add that the spark plugs and wires were replaced. Spark plugs are iridium .45 gap and only a couple months old.

 

There is a specification for a “drive cycle”. Your short drives may not have met it. It’s an annoying feature of OBD-2.

Have you been able to pin down which cylinder is misfiring? Have you checked the power to the fuel injectors - key on, 12 volts to the pink wire in each harness connector? Check for the PCM supplied ground that fires the injector with a noid light? Did the car sit unstarted for an extended period of time? 10% ethanol fuel can damage the fuel system components over an extended period of time.

Does a visual inspection of the spark plugs indicate a cylinder that is running very lean or very rich?

 

Whatever device you are using is reporting the OBD2 test status, not actual faults."Tests have not passed" just means you have not driven far enough or under the conditions for the test yet. If you are not in a state that required emission checking, just wait longer or forget about it. If you are in a state that requires emission testing, just drive farther. Lotta folks in California call it the Vegas trip ;-)
MAF sensor inactivity is the only code current.

 

WTH is with these first post responses like this that keep popping up? They are all the same and are of no value. Must be some AI generated BS.

 

They are SPAMMERS posting via an IP from Bharti AirTel in India. They create what they appear to feel is an “Americanized” name and open a fake account. At this point I’ve identified about 50 accounts. Earlier they would copy and paste a response from an earlier post in the old thread. Odd…. posting for the first time in “New Member Intro” they (being new members) welcome a new member, and were usually copy and pasting my standard post of “Welcome to CamaroZ28.com ! ! !”.

I usually manage to delete these posts within a couple of hours. Their objective seems to be to embed links to illicit websites, using a very tiny and light gray font, in the hope that we won’t notice. There are a couple other groups posting from Turkey or using VPN.

Unfortunately we seem to have more SPAM posts than legitimate posts these days.

 

Bloody hell!

 

Even more interesting in this thread is the fact the thread starter has failed to follow up. He’s signed in as recently as 11/15. Gary and I apparently wasted our time trying to help him. Maybe I should just close the thread.

 

Our fault. The name "stelth" should have been a warning. Dang us with our innocence ;-)

 

So sorry for the gap between responding college and work have most of my time ate up. I appreciate the help and knowledge you guys are lending me. This weekend I looked at everything you said. The cylinder I found misfiring was number 6.The spark plugs that I have are TR55IX and it is running really rich for sure. I changed it out and the misfire was gone. I checked the power to the injectors, the battery was sitting at around 11.88 V after letting it run the voltage to the pink wire were as following. #1 11.65V #2 11.28 #3 11.68V #4 11.14 #5 11.60 #6 11.08 #7 11.28 #8 11.03. I had the car in the on position and to note the battery is only 3 months old. I picked up a noid light tester everything had a solid pulse. To my knowledge the previous owner of the car took the car out every other weekend and couldn't recall when it sat for an extended amount of time.

I also took the ICM off to get tested it was bad, I put a new one on and there was no notable change. (This was before I pulled the spark plug out). The code scanner I've been using is a Zurich wireless scanner. I got ahold of another scanner and I didn't have any codes after driving around for about an hour. (After I had changed the spark plug.) While driving the misfire wasn't gone but it wasn't as intense and power and idle was still rough. I used the live data part of the scanner and found that the Bank 2 sensor is sitting at the lowest voltage 0.001V and not moving at all. (While idling). I swapped the sensors and confirmed it was not the O2 sensor causing it. Off the gray connector of the PCM is a JET tuner it has no identifiers or part numbers on it. However, when I take it out and plug the gray connector directly to the PCM. I get small movement from the Bank 2 O2 sensor 0.05V to 0.45V. (While idling).

 

0.450 volts is the correct reading for a cold O2 sensor. That is the bias voltage supplied to the sensor by the PCM. The sensor has to heat up to about 600°F before it works. When the sensor warms up, the thimble, exposed to ambient air on the inside and exhaust gas on the outside generates a voltage that adds to (rich) or subtracts from (lean) the 0.450 bias voltage. The normal range of readings can extend from 0.000 volts to 1.000 (or very slightly above) volts.

Sounds like there was a short to ground in the JET module. That would cause the PCM to pour extra fuel into that bank of the engine = fouled plugs on that bank. It should have set a code. But maybe you don't have enough drive cycles on the vehicle to allow the PCM to identify the O2 sensors as “ready).

 

I took the JET module off and recorded what the O2 sensors were reading, so I could compare it to having the JET module on. But between putting it back in my starter took a dump. I'll add in what I got from a 2 hour drive with no codes showing up testing without the JET. I'm not sure if its crucial to have the JET module in but its possibly a drop in fuel tuner.

At an idle

Staying around 2k RPMs while driving

Staying around 2k RPMs while driving

Coming down on RPMs the spike is hard acceleration