96 ss hesitation
have it scanned for trouble codes and let us know if anything comes up. best to see what the computer has stored first, could save some bucks. whens the last time it had new plugs and/or plug wires?
96 ss hesitation
I had scanned the pcm and found no codes,also the plugs and wires have only 15000 mi on them.
I also noticed that when I'm stopped with car in gear sometimes the idol is a little rough.
I also noticed that when I'm stopped with car in gear sometimes the idol is a little rough.
agree with 94camaroz28 it sounds like it could be an opti starting to go. u could check the idle air control valve and see if its all gunked up and sticking. is it running rich? smelling gas in the exhaust?
I'd do a lot more investigation before jumping to the conclusion that "it's the Opti".
First, provide a more detailed description of how the engine responds. Does this happen at all RPM when you press down on the accelerator, or only at specific RPM? What grade of fuel are you using? Is it better or worse when the engine is hot? ....cold? Does this happen mainly when you go WOT, or at all throttle positions while accelerating?
Some quick checks:
-look for a tear in the rubber bellows between the MAF and the throttle body, or the lower edge of the bellows not fully on the lip of the throttle body.
-check the TPS voltage as you slowly rotate the throttle blades. Should move smoothly from less than 1V at closed throttle to almost 5V at WOT, with no voltage dropouts or spikes.
-check the fuel pressure, including the affect of removing and reinstalling the vacuum compensation line. A leak in the vacuum line will eliminate the manifold vacuum correction of the fuel pressure.
First, provide a more detailed description of how the engine responds. Does this happen at all RPM when you press down on the accelerator, or only at specific RPM? What grade of fuel are you using? Is it better or worse when the engine is hot? ....cold? Does this happen mainly when you go WOT, or at all throttle positions while accelerating?
Some quick checks:
-look for a tear in the rubber bellows between the MAF and the throttle body, or the lower edge of the bellows not fully on the lip of the throttle body.
-check the TPS voltage as you slowly rotate the throttle blades. Should move smoothly from less than 1V at closed throttle to almost 5V at WOT, with no voltage dropouts or spikes.
-check the fuel pressure, including the affect of removing and reinstalling the vacuum compensation line. A leak in the vacuum line will eliminate the manifold vacuum correction of the fuel pressure.
The car only hesitates only when I accelerate mostly when full throttle but it will hesitate at normal driving but that noticeable car idles good in park but in gear it will
Have a little rough idle but not too bad I checked for vac leaks but didn't notice yet but on the throttle body elbow before going into the maf there's a little piece of plastic of the elbow that has been rubber taped closed so check that next. Thanks guys for your help I will report back
Have a little rough idle but not too bad I checked for vac leaks but didn't notice yet but on the throttle body elbow before going into the maf there's a little piece of plastic of the elbow that has been rubber taped closed so check that next. Thanks guys for your help I will report back
Air leaks BEFORE the MAF sensor won't throw anything off and cause misifres. It just means you're feeding the engine dirty air. The connection BEFORE the MAF sensor would usually be the air supply line for the AIR pump. If the AIR pump has been removed, someone might have plugged it up.
I had checked all the vac lines checked maf connections are good the ss air cleaner is making a good connection. Could it be throttle positioning senser because the engine runs good when driving.
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95z_28_camaro_4_Ivan
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
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Oct 3, 2015 07:27 PM



