Jw.. How effective would the headers and cam be with my stock torque converter? I want decent times at the track like low 13's or high 12's or so... Anyone know what a stock A4 96 ss runs in the quarter?

 

I think it's around 13.7-14.0 in the 1/4 mile

 

Thats not bad... If I just got headers and a cam say i ran like 12.9 or something with my stock torque converter.. Around what times would i run with say a 2,500 stall converter

 

with bolt ons you should be able to run low 13s maybe a high 12. the autos can leave better but the manuals pull harder on the top end. i dont see any problem with getting high 12s outa lt1s without heads or a cam. hell im shooting for 12.3s next season with a new rear and traction.

 

kssmyss what boltons do you have?

 

munson, just get a hotcam and nice stall and some 342-373 gears and good tuning, i really dont think you need headers right now either if your looking for a low 13 or high 12, the ram air VS.cai has been beat to death here, they both work just as well, ive been down the bolt on road many times and unless its a cam, gears, or a stall you wont even feel a difference most all the small things you wont really feel...

 

Alright, sweet... On my cam selection... How do I know which cam is best and adds the most hp?

 

all depends on if you want good driveability or not, a good choice for a cam is the hotcam or a cc306 is a good streetable cam, do a search and start reading about what would be good for you

 

damn near everything

4.10 gears, summit rear end gurdle, g2 subframe tubular connectors, lakewood boxed lower control arms, spohn lower control arm brackets, spohn adjustable pan hard bar, poly tranny bushing, taylor spark plug wires, SLP headers (94-95 single cat style), custom dual exhaust, underdrive crank pulley, harlan shift light, lous short stick, hurst billet plus, obd I conversion computer (from madz28.com/madwolf on cz28.com), accel 300+ ignition, MSD coil, CSI electric water pump, lt4 clutch and pressure plate, removed the baffles in the ss hood.

the above mods put me in the 12.8-12.9 range all year long with 5-6 passes being 12.83 with a best mph of 109.78. i was worried about popping the rear for the 4rth time so i kept alot of air in the drag radials as my 1.85-190 60s show.

i added the 1.6 rrs but smoked the clutch before i could get any times. the lt4 clutch doenst like 4500 rpm launches.

parts being installed over the winter

58 mm bbk tb
walbro 255 intank pump
AFPR (cant remember the brand)
AGX adjustable front shocks
AGX gas adjust rear shocks
spec stage II clutch
roller pilot bearing
polly rear sway bar bushings and end links
earls stainless braided brake lines
lt4 springs, retainers and locks
denny driveshaft
custom fabed 8.8 rear end

 

damn, thats alot of bolt ons

 

yeah it is but its fun pulling ls1s

 

Long tube headers will help alot, all bolt on will work fine w/ your stock stall...Id say Cutout-30$,Long tubes-600$, and a k&n filter 40$...and you notice a huge differance...throw a aftermarket stall on there(3000-3500 stall) and your lookin at a 12 second car

 

What would a stock 99 trans am run in the quarter mile anyway? I think they are rated at 310 hp

 

My friend's 99 formula runs consistent 13.35 with a cold air intake (not a lid) and a custom built y pipe and dynomax ultraflow muffler. Oh yeah, and a baby seat and stroller in the back. A stock LS1 is a marvel of modern engineering.

 

Congrats on the new ride.
Just remember...all the hp in the world won't do you a bit of good if you can't plant it.
I agree about the drag radials. I would also look into used Hotchkis stuff since you are on a budget.
One other thing...If you did get the "2 on the left" exhaust, leave it alone. It completely rocks for the sound. Have someone check for the "cone" in the pipe that goes over the rear axle. That would free up a few hp. If you have the standard Z28 exhaust, find a used "2 on the left" to keep it looking stock.