95 Z28 Sputtering then boggs down and stalls
95 Z28 Sputtering then boggs down and stalls
My 95 Z28, problem started after running out of fuel. Replaced fuel and air filter, ing control module and coil. Checked for vacum leak, none found. Any ideas where to go from here?
Re: 95 Z28 Sputtering then boggs down and stalls
Check the fuel pressure. The fuel pumps in our cars are cooled by the fuel in the tank. Its not uncommon for the pump to overheat when they run out of fuel, which would make the pump weak or not work at all.
Re: 95 Z28 Sputtering then boggs down and stalls
I limped to several places here in Deland Fl to have it scanned and was informed there meter only works on 1996 or newer. Found sparks arcing from the coil wire last night. May not be the main problem but I need to address that anyway. It appears I have to remove the radiator and water pump to access the oposit end of the coil wire. Is that correct or is there another way?
Re: 95 Z28 Sputtering then boggs down and stalls
It's been a long time since I had an LT1, but I don't remember ever having to remove the radiator to access the coil wire. You should be able to reach around. The water pump and Optiplex are way down there, but they should both be accessible from the side and under the car. Along with the coil wire. Replace the coil wire and consider new plug wires while you are down there. I ran MSD SCs 8.5s when I had my car, but they are a PITA to install. Consider a stock wire from NGK or AC Delco if you replace everything.
In terms of your main problem, if you ran out of fuel, I have to wonder about sedimentation (rare in a newer car), clogged fuel filter, or a damaged fuel pump. Checking fuel pressure off the fuel rail (near the firewall of the car) is a good way to start. Blip the throttle to ensure pressure maintenance (I think it should stay above 28-30 psi, if I remember right).
If pressure is low, start with the filter, then move to the pump if the problem isn't solved. A Seafoam treatment can help improve injector function, too.
In terms of scanning, you have a crossover year. You need an OBD I cable scanning OBD II system. If you can find someone with an Equus reader and full adapter kit, you can pull codes. Otherwise it needs to go to the Chevy dealer. Good luck!
In terms of your main problem, if you ran out of fuel, I have to wonder about sedimentation (rare in a newer car), clogged fuel filter, or a damaged fuel pump. Checking fuel pressure off the fuel rail (near the firewall of the car) is a good way to start. Blip the throttle to ensure pressure maintenance (I think it should stay above 28-30 psi, if I remember right).
If pressure is low, start with the filter, then move to the pump if the problem isn't solved. A Seafoam treatment can help improve injector function, too.
In terms of scanning, you have a crossover year. You need an OBD I cable scanning OBD II system. If you can find someone with an Equus reader and full adapter kit, you can pull codes. Otherwise it needs to go to the Chevy dealer. Good luck!
Re: 95 Z28 Sputtering then boggs down and stalls
I had the same problem with my car with a arching coil wire. My symptoms were as follows... very hard to start (took 20 seconds sometimes to get it running), and once it was running, it didn't rev past 4800 rpms. A replacement coil wire comes with the ACdelco wires from any auto store. That's important to replace.
FastandBlue is correct in that you do not need to remove the radiator to get to it. It is behind the water pump, but it can be reached without too much trouble.
Fix that and see if that solves the problem. If not, that fuel pump is still on the list of things to check.
FastandBlue is correct in that you do not need to remove the radiator to get to it. It is behind the water pump, but it can be reached without too much trouble.
Fix that and see if that solves the problem. If not, that fuel pump is still on the list of things to check.
Re: 95 Z28 Sputtering then boggs down and stalls
Fuel pressure should be 43.5psi at idle, with the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator. GM spec accepts 41-47psi. Reconnect the vacuum line and pressure should drop about 8psi, less drop with a more aggressive cam. At max load, WOT above 5,000 RPM, pressure should not drop below 40psi.
The 95 PCM is OBD-1, just like 94. Problem is it has a 16-pin OBD-2 style ALDL connector. You need an OBD-1 scanner with a 16-pin cable or a 12-pin to 16-pin adapter. The is a link to a free download of OBD-1 scanning software written specifically for the 94/95 F-Body LT1, in a sticky at the top of the "Computer Diagnostics....." forum.
The 95 PCM is OBD-1, just like 94. Problem is it has a 16-pin OBD-2 style ALDL connector. You need an OBD-1 scanner with a 16-pin cable or a 12-pin to 16-pin adapter. The is a link to a free download of OBD-1 scanning software written specifically for the 94/95 F-Body LT1, in a sticky at the top of the "Computer Diagnostics....." forum.
Re: 95 Z28 Sputtering then boggs down and stalls
I had the same problem and turned out that my water pump leaked onto my distributer and screwed up the wires and plugs. Replaced everything and runs like a champ! Hope this helps
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