Sell good parts from the bent up motor to fund rebuild. That's basically what I did and the parts sold quick within like 3 weeks on craigslist. You don't have to do a full rebuild but maybe some machine work in your case though.

 

I'm really getting tired of buying things form CL. It seems I get burned everytime.

Oh well...I'll do what ever is necessary to get this crank into my original engine.......

This thing is driving me nuts!!!!!

 

I meant selling the good parts, but I hear ya buyer be ware on craigslist. Anyhow don't give up on it. How bad is the rust? Try emery cloth on it yet?

Now the bent up motor, how are the cam bearings?
Suffer any other damage or debris through system?

This is why I would stick with the new donor motor if you are confident it ran before storage.

 

I've tried to emory cloth it, still see the bad areas. Ran a round scotch brite pad on a wheel, still the marks are there.

The motor in the car runs great, except for a oil leak at the balacer / crank area due to the crank being bent. Can't stop the oil from leaking out. It's shame it leaks because it runs so well.

Either way, I'm going to keep the engine in the car, but replace the crank with the straight one from the shortblock.

I'll take it all to a local engine machine shop and let them put it together right.

Sooner or later, it'll be right.

 

Ah that makes sense for that condition. Okay so are you sure it's the crankshaft bent and not the crank snout? The snout presses onto the crank, the balancer presses onto the snout. The seal is between the snout and the timing cover. The only other leak would be the oil pan gulley thingy. The felpro oil pan gasket is all one piece, works awesome!!! Besides you'd be getting knock or codes right from main bearing damage?

remove/replace crank snout to inspect or discard.
Special puller needed, but you can buy a longer crankshaft bolt to push off from as a trick using a universal puller.

 

I think there may be a slightly unconventional use of terms here. The "snout" is usually an integral part of the crankshaft that has been machined down to accept the crank sprocket and the crank "hub", which is a press fit on the crank. The damper (GM still calls it a "balancer") then bolts to the hub, at least in the LT1 we are talking about.

Shoebox has a good diagram:

http://shbox.com/1/engine_front_diagram.jpg

 

lol well yeah it is an unconventional setup right. Hence the need for a special puller, but same difference really in function. It may also be called crank flange hub, or simply listed as harmonic balancer at autozone. Pioneer/Harmonic Balancer (872015) | 1995 Chevrolet Camaro 8 Cylinders P 5.7L SFI OHV | AutoZone.com

It does sound like the hub is damaged and not the crank. Improper removal or installation can cause that, and maybe extreme rust.

 

The crank "snout" is what is bent. That's the part of the crank that you can see before you press the hub onto it. I measured the crank at the edge, and the runout is .004".

Makes the hub / balancer wobble, causing the oil leak between the hub surface and seal.

First time in my life I have ever seen this.

Some moron who owned the car previously must have lifted the car up by the balancer and left it there for a long time - or dropped the engine on the balancer on a hard floor.

 

Oh you have checked it, okay sorry I couldn't tell. It was really hard to imagine since that is a short and strong piece to bend without damage to the bearing.

I would try to swap cranks like you were thinking, including the hub lol

 

That's the plan!!