I don't have a 460e, 6 manual.
What is the module behind the kick panel on the passenger side floorboard?

I went through my steering column parts and went through each key cylinder until I found the mate to the VATs.
Now the security light turns off after 4 flashes, but she still won't turn over.
What do I check from here?
When I was putting the column back in, I have a connector that I can't figure out where it goes.

Brake light connector and ???
I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

 

Signature added... My over site.
I have been working on getting the correct key/VAT combination. The pellet turned out to be 3.74k ohms.

Putting the column back together.
(I fixed the sloppy column tilt as well.)

You have to trace the starter circuit from the battery to the starter.
Have you checked the fusible link for switched 12V power to the ignition switch (see schematic linked in post #3)?
-> No I have not.

Have you checked for 12 volts at the correct pin (see schematic) on the ignitions switch, with the key in the start position?
-> No I have not.

For the following, with the key in "starts" position - Have you verified 12 volts past the clutch start switch?
-> No I have not.

Have you checked for 12 volts out of the Theft Deterrent Relay?
-> No I have not. Obviously, I don't know the TDR, from the BCM, form the AMC(jk), or their locations.

Do you have 12 volts at the purple wire on the starter solenoid?"
-> I don't know.

?????
Have you verified 12 volts at the starter, black wire from the battery?
-> No I have not. In an earlier post, I asked about the black wire.
-> answer -> The black wire (with ring lug) bundled with the knock sensor wire, purple starter wire,
and the passenger side O2 sensor wires get grounded to the engine block.. From Shoebox:

So is the black wire ground or +12v. I had originally grounded it to the starter, moved it to the block.
But looking at the schematic, it goes to the "B" side of the starter solenoid.
Am I correct, or am I misinterpreting the schematic?
?????

Have you verified the starter ground to the block?
-> if the starter is bolted to the block, is it not grounded?

I will have time to check these all out tomorrow and get back to you.
Thanks again.

 

What I told you about the thin gage black wire with the eyelet is correct. It is a ground from the PCM to the block. The thin black wire doesn’t come from the battery.

The “black wire from the battery” is the heavy gage wire that runs directly from the battery.+ terminal to the starter - the main power wire. In addition to reading 12 volts, all connections at the battery and at the starter need to be clean. The wire needs to be inspected for corrosion damage to the wire strands near the battery, since that would limit the current available on the circuit.

If the starter surface and the block surface are clean, free of grease, dirt or corrosion, you have a good ground. It takes 10 seconds to check with a meter.

 

I took a quick look, the heavy gauge cable (wire), from the battery to the starter is red.
(In my many years of working on cars, I have only seen a black positive wire once on a 1940 Ford 9n tractor, it was positive ground.)
Yes, it has 12v to it.

There are 4 wires coming out of the starter loom,
the knock sensor wire with connector,
a small gauge purple wire to the starter,
another small gauge wire, ground to the block.
A large gauge red/black wire to the large terminal in the starter solenoid.
The surfaces between the starter and the block are clean.

Do you know what the blue connector goes to?
I reread my message, and I could tell I wasn't clear in my inquiry.

I'll be able to get the voltmeter to better troubleshooting tomorrow.
Thank you for not giving up on me.

 

The blue connector goes to the clutch start switch. Connect it or jump it and you may get starter engagement (if nothing else is wrong).

 

I guess that's my error on the positive battery to starter wire color. I assumed you would be using Shoebox's 1995 starter wiring diagram I linked in post #3, and that shows a black wire. The 1994 diagram does correctly show red. My error. Sorry for wasting your time.

Looks like Rob/Shoebox found your problem.

 

Never a waste of time.
I always appreciate someone's input especially when I don't know what I'm doing.
I have followed a couple of threads on here, where someone asks for help, member's reply, then they just disappear.
Basically an askahole.
Definition: Someone who asks for help or advice, then does what they want and ignores the advice.
Especially after looking through the threads on here, You sir have posted many suggestions, if not walked through to completion.
There are a couple of other members on here as well who replies I see, also contribute a whole bunch as well.
If it wasn't for you members who post your suggestions and troubleshooting tips, this site and the hoppy for these cars would be dead.
Thank you for your suggestions.
As for the color of the cable, the factory might have been black, NAPA replacement might have been red. (I thought about that after, AFTERMARKET).
Thank you again for your help.

Going to try Shoebox's tip.
I'll let you all know how it goes.

 

There are two switches on the clutch pedal assembly. One is the cruise control cancel, and the other one is the starter switch. Sounds like you only have the cruise switch connected.

 

Gentlemen,
Many thanks for the troubleshooting tips.
Each one played a part in the solution to getting my project to crank over.

One issue was, I did not move the VATs over from the donor car.
The next issue was, I did not have the clutch safety switch plugged in.
The last issue was, I did not have the ignition switch aligned correctly, the ignition start wire was not being engaged when the key was turned to the start position.
Next is fresh fuel and an actual start-up attempt.
But I am that much closer, thanks to you guys.
I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks again.

 

Glad we were able to help.