LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

94 lt1 "T" coolant line and how to get rid of it.

Old Jul 19, 2009 | 01:28 PM
  #1  
Trannykiller's Avatar
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94 lt1 "T" coolant line and how to get rid of it.

Ok so here's the story... I bought a 95 lt1 to put into my 94 lt1. I orignally thought the radiator hoses and such were the same. But I found out that there is a couple of differences. The "Y" hose coming from the upper part of the radiator (http://shbox.com/1/93-94_hoses.jpg Hose#14) I am going to put on a singe large hose for a 95 (http://shbox.com/1/95-97_hoses.jpg Hose#14) and then (luckily I have the smaller hose Hose#13) will just run the smaller hose from the wp to the top of the radiator's other side.

My only problem left is the "T" hose that has the bleeder valve on it. (http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses_93-94.jpg Hose#9) I need to get rid of that extra hose to have the lines set up in a 95 setup.

Anyone have suggestions as to block it? Have done it before?
Old Jul 19, 2009 | 03:27 PM
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You replace #4 with the 95-97 part that does not have the "T" or get creative on how to close that off.
Old Jul 20, 2009 | 05:18 AM
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Why not just continue to use your 94 hoses? The only difference with the connections to the engine should be the angle of the coolant nipple on the passneger side of the throttle body.
Old Jul 20, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Injuneer
Why not just continue to use your 94 hoses? The only difference with the connections to the engine should be the angle of the coolant nipple on the passneger side of the throttle body.
We looked at that, but I think that would be more trouble than its worth. We would have to change the steam vent tubes on the back of the cylinders (which is all back and bolted in the car now), and then the line that runs to the vented opti spark from the manifold. We would have to change back to a non-vented, and I dont want to do that.

I'm thinking a creative way would be to get a pipe screw and "screw" it into the "T" and jb weld it. Not sure if this would suffice for the heat and pressure it would see???

For a new pipe with out the "T" i would have to buy the whole assembly, and not just the connector. Not sure. This is the only stupid thing holding us up, in running the car.
Old Jul 20, 2009 | 08:35 AM
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Part #4 has it's own part number or you could get one from a salvage yard.

Can't see what the heater hoses have to do with the opti vent system. ???

When people do the TB bypass, the steam line and hose ends up just like your 94 has, so I don't see an issue there, either.
Old Jul 20, 2009 | 09:43 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by shoebox
Part #4 has it's own part number or you could get one from a salvage yard.

Can't see what the heater hoses have to do with the opti vent system. ???

When people do the TB bypass, the steam line and hose ends up just like your 94 has, so I don't see an issue there, either.
Yeah I dont know what I was thinking/writing. Its not the steam tubes its the drivers side of the manifold, the 94 has the loop tube back into the manifold, while the 95 has the tube that comes out to the optispark? one to the steam tube that would have been where the "t" hose would have gone into on the 94, and another line I can't think of right now.

I think maybe the junk yard would be the best bet. If we get just the connector how would you suggest putting it in? Clamps?


I'm sure you've probably answered something like this before.
Old Jul 20, 2009 | 05:14 PM
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You're confusing vacuum lines with coolant lines with other lines.

The short U-shaped hose on the drivers side of your 94 connects the PCV valve to the vacuum connection a few inches behind it. The 95 will have a line that runs from the PCV valve to the connection on the front of the manifold, right under the throttle body. You can stick with the 95 setup. Don't change it. It has nothing to do with the coolant system/hoses.

Ditto on the Opti. The vacuum line from the Opti routes to the connection on the side of the intake manifold where the PCV vacuum used to connect. Leave it alone - use the 95 configuration. Has nothing to do with the coolant system/hoses.

The difference between the 94 and 95 coolant routing is the fact the steam tube from the back of the heads is routed directly to a connection on the radiator, right below the fill cap. On the 95, the steam tube is routed to the throttle body, then the throttle body line routes to the connection on the radiator.

The connections on the engine and the radiator are the same in both cases. Only the hoses are different. Use the 94 hoses you already have, or buy a 95 set of hoses. Doesn't make any difference.
Old Jul 22, 2009 | 07:06 AM
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Ok so I got my own screen name and was posting under my boyfriend's (trannykiller) to try and help come up with some sort of solution. Forgive me for the confusion, and my own confusion of figuring where the lines go, I'm not very good with names. But thanks Shoebox, i'm great with diagrams, and your's really helped us out. Also thanks to Injuneer for correcting my jumble of words.

what do you guys think about this? putting in a coolant flush "T" and taking the bleeder out like the guy has below? Or do you think running a hose from the firewall directly to the waterpump would be fine? We just want the cheapest option that wont end up killing all the work we did. Plus the fact that i'm going to be wanting to take it, and i dont want to be stranded somewhere

Old Jul 22, 2009 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by *Emilia*
.....what do you guys think about this? putting in a coolant flush "T" and taking the bleeder out like the guy has below? Or do you think running a hose from the firewall directly to the waterpump would be fine? We just want the cheapest option that wont end up killing all the work we did. Plus the fact that i'm going to be wanting to take it, and i dont want to be stranded somewhere
Confused more than before. The picture of the Gen 1 SBC in a 3rd Gen doesn't help. I still don't understand why you don't just use the correct SET of hoses - either the 94 or the 95? What's the point of hacking up the hoses and adding a flush "T"? That isn't going to increase reliability or cost less.
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