I saw on some parts site that you could run stock retainers with the 918 springs...is this true/safe?

 

What the hell is the part number for the shimss that fit the beehives?

 

I didn't use any shims for mine and haven't heard of any.

 

So without shims just how are you supposed to adjust these things?

With just the Seats?

 

I made sure to get the +.050 locks to ensure I won't have coil bind. If you want a lower install height, get the regular locks.

 

I used Comp Cams Shim Kit p/n# 7453 when I installed the 918s with Scorpion 1.7 RRs. the complete parts list I used is here.

Thomas.

 

Ya well I checked it out this afternoon since I had to check out a header leak, decided to pull the driver side valve cover. Not too bad, but you can tell the round steel washers on the roller rockers are hitting the tops of the valve locks and the retainers. The locks are forged steel and the retainers are chromoly steel (thank god!). It basically looks like no damage was done, but I don't feel good about it so I am going to swap to the non-self aligning rollers with guide plates. I wish I knew about this about a year ago, I went thru dozens of posts and never read any problem with the SA rocker arms and +.050 locks. It's just something I overlooked. I have around 3-4K miles on the new valvetrain.

Any suggestions on NSA roller rockers and guideplates? I do have the crane chromoly pushrods, I believe these are hardened.
Thanks

 

Chromemoly > hardened. I went with the 1.6 Pro Mag RR with a larger 7/16" stud. I didn't want to chance anything. Oh, and GMPP guideplates.

 

That's the route I was thinking. I think the Pro Mags have the best reputation. Supposedly the bodies are warrantied for life.

I already have the arp 3/8" rocker studs, would it be worth it to upgrade to 7/16"? I wonder if the 3/8" are sufficient.

Do the center bolt valve covers need clearancing?

And why GMPP guideplates? Is it part #14011051?
Thanks-a-lot

 

3/8 studs should be sufficient, but it depends on what cam you're running and how hard it is on the valve train. If you think you're ok with a mild cam, then go for it. The valve covers will need to be clearenced some, do a search to see where. GMPP guideplates are the only ones that will work CORRECTLY on the LT1.

 

Just a follow up:

All the locks (keepers) on the intake valves were slightly damaged, grinded & grooved on the very tops where the valve spring retainer is located. The exhaust locks were barely touched. The tops of the valve stems looked perfect. It's a good thing I caught this, it probably would have caused major problems later on....

So far I noticed that one of the lifter retainers/clips has a small crack, it doesn't look too bad, but it has caught my attention due to all the bad talk about these lifters lately. Obviously this is an engineering flaw in the lifter which needs to be fixed. We should all get our money back on these things, but you know how it goes, racing parts are not warrantied.