Getting some bad knock, could that be caused by needing to adjust the rockers again? I jsut replaced the coil again and so far it hasnt died which is good. Here are my scanmaster readings at idle. The car still isnt running all that good yet though. Would sound clips help?

MAF- 9 to 12
SP- 24-26
Lp-3.1 to 3.6
Rp-2.6 to 2.8
lbl-158
rbl-128
cel-16
Lin-128
rin-128
o2l-jumping 800 consistent at semi throttle
02r- same
ats-73
clt-101
tps-.64
tpp-0
iac-132
map-20 to 27
acp-.02
ccp-0

 

My car is doing the same thing almost. 3-4* of KR at idle, around 2-3* cruising, BLMS split pretty bad. I recently rebuilt the motor and put a cc306 and 1.6 rockers in. Sorry I can't help, let me know if you figure it out.

*This is with a new knock sensor and a new LT4 KM.

 

well first off you really shouldnt be able to read the O2 sensors in closed loop b/c the fluctuate so fast to maintain the proper AFR.

your MAP readings have me worried if they are really at 27.. thats practically ZERO vacuum! even 20 is a little high IMO for that cam. should be in the 16-18 range.

the KR could be causing from an improper tune but false KR isnt out of the question either. who did you tuning?

 

Bryan at PCM4less did the tuning. The braking is pretty bad from under 10 mph but from higher speeds it slows down nicely. I have a LT4 KM and I know the O2 sensors fluctuate a lot that is so I gave it some throttle to see how it acted and it was continuously above 800. I dont know what hardly any of this stuff means. I just have general ideas.

I am also throwing codes 33 (low vaccuum) and 41 (ignition, open)

The car has the stock stall, could that be the cause for some vacuum loss?

The car killed 2 coils prior to this one too. They ran fine for about a day then the next day went and dead. Wouldnt start. Switched coils, started right up. So far this coil is on day 3. Hopefully it starts when i go out there today.

I also found I have a small fuel leak where my SFCs were welded. Must have thinned out the plastic so I need to look at that today also. Dont know if it would cause any bad #s to the PCM.

 

If that MAP is in inches of Mercury ("Hg) it is way too high. Are the valves adjusted properly? Or you have a huge vacuum leak. I would agree.... 15-16"Hg with that cam and the correct tune.

No sign of a DTC 43? Those kind of retard numbers look like what you see when the KS is disconnected and it uses default retard values.

 

No sign of DTC 43. Just 33 and 41. I will check all my connections on that though. After giving it partial throttle and letting off, it directly goes right to 9. No higher or lower. Someone in my other thread mentioned my timing chain. It is a double roller and I was told I didnt need to clearance it so I didnt which was probably a mistake.

I think the valves must be too tight b/c that vacuum is really high. I started working on them. Would you agree 1/2 turn past zero lash?

Any idea what would cause 3 coils to die?

 

I had a PCMFORLESS tune too. My car is now in the shop getting dyno tuned and "troubleshooted". The guy said there was WAY too much timng with the PCMFL tune and the A/F ratio was close to dangerously lean. I saw it for myself on the graphs.
No more mailorder tunes for me.

 

That's the trouble with a mail order tune...too many people think that they are what their car wants, or needs. Most of the time they need quite a bit of work to get them correct. You'd almost be better keeping your stock programming for a little while and saving the money you spent on your mail orde tune and putting it towards a dyno tune. To tune a car, it has to be in front of you.

I don't understand how some people can spend thousands of dollars on parts for their car, but skimp on the 1 thing that is going to make it run the way it should.

 

This might come off as harsh but it isnt the way I intend it.

The closest dyno tuner we have around here is in Buffalo. I am not skimping on it either. I just need a tune to get me by until I buy tuner cat, learn how to use it, and get the car to the dyno. I already bought the cable and everything and the tune was only $50 so why not. The dyno around the corner is working on getting LT1 edit so that may be an option but i doubt any time soon.

 

Bryan Herter of PCMforless.com lives in Temple, PA which i dont think is that far away... didnt compare on a map but youre in the same region at least. If he got his hands on the car then he could really do some good tuning. Madwolf is also up in Indiana and i believe does hands on work but im not entirely sure. mail order tunes are only an estimate and place to start... thats also why they are so cheap when compared to a dyno.

now about your... 41 - Ignition control circuit, open. that is possibly the reason your car is eating coils. maybe you have a bad ground??

 

Grease had mentioned maybe a bad ground too. What places would I start to look and how would I know it is a bad ground? Initially I didnt get that code. I only got the code when I was on the 3rd coil. I put everything back just how I found it. Could the DTC 41 come from me sticking my electric waterpump wire in with the fuse? That is on the ignition control circuit.

I just finished adjusting the rockers and I had them way too tight. I think I might have had it at #6 TDC instead of 1. I also thought zero lash was until I couldnt move the pushrod with my fingers. So I did make them way tighter than needed. Now set properly at 1/2 turn past zero lash.

I think I am getting close to getting this thing running though. Just fix the fuel line and figure out the coil and it should go.

EDIT: That would be an idea to take it to Brian or Ion. They probably could do some good things with it. It is still a decent drive though.

 

I realize this is an old post. However, I've got a cc306 and I'm looking for information. I just noticed a couple things in your post. What is your idle set at? You map is WAY different than mine. However, I had brake difficulties too. Upping the Idle to in park/nutral to 800 rpm and idle in drive to 950 rpm solved my low vacume brake problem.

I was curious though you were experiencing knock? I seem to be experiencing knock as well when I get into the pedal. Did you ever figure anything out about that?

Thanks!