where can i find a flywheel to adapt to the T-56?

 

Get the LTCC & you'll prolly have no probs reving to 9k as far as opti falling apart goes

The main reason the opti falls apart at those speeds is the rotor is spinning to fast by that time, now all you do is take the rotor out & put the opti together with no rotor (use spacer where rotor used to be) & since you don't need the rotor with the LTCC you're laughing

 

I run from 6800 to 7000 on a blueprinted stock bottom end. Stock components balanced and blueprinted that is. I've got around 20k on it now with no real problems

I've had to tame it down a bit though as I'm wearing out the lifter prematurely due to the high revs. Thats been about the only issue. Not a single one with the bottom end.

Comp cam pro mags, trick flow chrome moly pushrods, comp springs and retainers, stock reworked valves.

-Shannon

 

Speaking from experience here I would like to silence all the know it alls on this thread about how you cant do this and that with an LT1.

1st of all I have a 383ci LT1 that was built to handle 8000+ RPMs
It was very expensive, the block had to be specially machined and strengthened. All of the parts of the rotating assembly and valvetrain are extremely expensive. Nothing but the strongest parts went inside. The above still doesnt mean the engine would handle 8000 RPMs. Next over $2000 in Balancing and blue printing EVERY internal part on the engine increases the longevity and durability of my engine.

2nd my peak HP is above 7000 RPMs, but it is correct that the stock PCM doesnt work well past 7000. It doesnt actually cut off, it just takes the last fuel and spark cell and keeps that amount beyond 7000 which causes loss of power due to too much spark and not enough fuel. a bandaid to this would be to lower the spark and increase the fuel in the PE tables in the 7000 rpm cells. Which I did on the dyno but didnt help alot. I made peak HP at about 7100 RPMs on the dyno. an aftermarket DFI will increase the power above 7000 RPMS and most likely with my cam profile have peak HP around 7400-7600 RPMs.


My optispark has seen numerous 7000+ rpm runs and still works fine, however an aftermarket MSD ignition is a must because beyond 6500 RPMs or so the stock ignition coil doesnt have enough power to deliver a strong spark with such a short dwell time.

Another way around this is to convert to an LS1 coil pack setup which will cost about $1000 or so.

With all this said, after Accel DFI 7 I will be making 8000 RPM shifts on a 383ci LT1. and with the nitrous probably shift about 7400, it all depends on peak power after the DFI goes in.


SO yes it can be done, but its expensive.

 

if you were to go to www.fbodycentral.com and check out the forums, theres a guy named Joe Ovetun and he's got a N/A LT1 thats in the 9.8' range, now hes pressin 9.6's i hear

my old v6 ran to 7000rpm's, course that was by accident tho... doh! damn floormats on my pedal...

 

ive never seen a post with so much blatently false and misleading information. Please get rid of this!

 

Very true. A friend of mine has a 355 SB2 in his 69 Firebird, its got a 14:1 CR ratio and he runs methanol. At the track he launches at 7800 rpm, and runs it up to around 9000 rpm.

 

 

simply said-
the molecules in synthetic are much smaller. thus why it flows so much better. but this means the smaller molecules are more likely to leak through the small cracks in your seals etc.

 

Im not sayin the lt1 cant do it but it takes more money then most people want to spend. Anything is possible as long as you got the green. I just tring to get the point across that it is way cheaper to mod a sbc1 and get tons of power. I mean why make it diffcult. If you want something one of a kind go for it do some researching blow some cash and bam you got a lt1 that can withstand that. But for cost reasons, and just for the time, and the amount of effort you would have to go threw in order to achieve it you might as well swap to the sbc1. I never said it couldnt be done, the lt1 cars running 9.8 and so on why dont you ask how much money they dropped into it. Im not lookin for a arguement or anything, I am all about the money so people have it and can afford to play other cant.

 

i have no need to rev past 6600 (on the dyno, power starts to drop off at 6800, took it upto 7000)

reving out of your powerband is useless....unless you want to sound like rice

 

This is not a Honda Civic. It's a Small block chevy. You don't need 7500 RPM that's ridiculous. If you want to rev high get a GM847 or a CC306, major top end, a nice bottom end and you can rev to 7k if your heart really desires although I believe the cams stop making power at a max of 6800.

 

For what its worth, my blue printed stock short block with gm lt1 heads would see in the range of 7400-7600. This was with stock pistons, rods, and crank.

My 370 ci motor see 7800-8000, nothing really trick in the bottom end, std cole crank, egal rods, cp pistons, gm lt1 heads the flow around 275, I still use the gm opti spark.

This is an NA motor

 

When we dynod my engine after rebuild, motor was still pulling 530 HP at 7,300 rpm. This was done on stock ported LT1 heads. Don't beleive all this BS about stock heads not being able to make the HP.

 

How are you revving past 7k???