Im going backwards here!
Last trip to the track 5 years ago I ran a 13.87@ 99.5 with a 2.100 60 ft. Since then Iv'e added a Vig 2800, Transgo shift kit, Spohn adj. TA.. Nittos, 1.6 roller tip rockers on stock springs and a cat back exhaust.
Traction on the street has always been bad since my Eiback pros were put on. When the Vig. went in it only got worse . I new this would happen. I'm not a total dummy. So I put some Nitto's on. This was no help. Bought a Spohn adj. TA. The one that gets it off the trans and has the crossmember that replaces the tunnel brace. Installed and set at -1 degree I took it for a ride. What a difference. I go to the track and turn a 14.04 avg. with a the same 60 ft. time. Whats up with that?
My question is do I need to lose my Eibacks, I like the lowered look. I'll sacrfice the cornering if I can keep the lowered look but get my weight transfer back.
Do you think if I cut a coil off my old stock springs for the rear and use V-6 springs with some QA1/s on the front that would solve my problem? Oh and by the way, the next day after the track I took the front sway bar off and it made no difference.

 

Lowering the car is not the best for drag applications. There are some steps to take however

The most critical thing that changes with the rear suspension geometry on a lowered car is the antisquat. You need to get some lower control arm relocation brackets on there! Without any antisquat you can't hope to make use of the potential traction you do have.

 

Throw you some ET Streets on and be done.

 

Buttercup

I do have relocation brackets on the lowest setting. This was another one of those mods where I saw no improvement. All though Im sure it would help if I got the total package right.
Thanks for your help though.

 

Alright on to the next thing then

Are you heating the Nittos up real good? These tires love heat!

 

Many variables...

Are you going on nights when the track is treated or on street nights when traction is so bad I couldn't hook up on slicks?

Try around 18 pounds in the Nitto's. Remove front sway bar. Make sure your front shocks have 12" of travel and are set loose if they are adjustable. On a decent track you should hook at your power level. The next step is ET Streets which will hook but it would be a shame to waste the Nittos...

A lowered car is not optimal for drag racing.

Also, try and follow cars that are running slicks and line up in their tracks. Avoid getting behind front wheel drive cars that just drag water up to the line.

 

I can't believe this. Some of the best names on this site are anserwering one of my first questions. This is why I've watched this site the last couple of years. But back to my question, should I change my springs and front shocks

 

Guys, could his springs really hold him back that much? I mean with his mods he should be hooking like crazy.
Not saying something else is wrong (although there may be)
just that it would be wierd if just puttin on lowering springs killed your hook like that.

 

nobody has mentioned rear shocks, but when i turn the rebound to 0 full soft on my koni single adj, the front rebound to 4 and lower my tire psi to 25 lbs (street tire) the gain in traction is very noticeable.

i don't have a torque arm either. cut 2.0 60' w/ 2-3 year old Bridgestone RE730s w/ 15,000 miles and near the end of their lives.

i need new tires!!!

i like the: "get ET Streets and be done w/ it!"

 

Tires (and the torque to turn them) are the biggest thing. I was running pretty consistent low 1.5's with an M6 and a lowered car with stock shocks and swaybars. Sticky tires will make a far greater difference than things like removing the front swaybar, etc. I had the Spohn TA and relocation brackets on that setup as well along with a set if cheap LCA's (Lakewood).

Rich Krause

 

tnthub,

It was a street night, but I though with the Nittos and the way the Spohn TA helped the street traction I would be able to hook up at the track. Tires only had 75 miles on them and 22 psi. Shoud I try more than -1 degree pinion angle with 18 psi in the tires. Has anyone found that the tires work better with some miles on them. I really expected to knock off 3 or 4 tenths with VIG and the other upgrades.

 

I have the same springs as you have.


12 psi in nittos, heat the heck out of them, launched really hard

My best 60 is 1.78

M6 car, 4.33 gear, stock Torque Arm, stock shocks. Panhard bar and LCA with brackets. Just something to compare by. Most of the time i am 1.8s

 

1.9 60 foot times with slicks and a lowered car. That was the worst performance mistake I ever made, but probably the best appearance mod that I have done. I am going to try some adjustable rear shocks pretty soon here and if they don't help out at all, I am going to throw a torque arm on, and if that doesn't help, the V6 springs are calling my name.

 

I've heard the Nitto's need a couple hundred miles to break in. After that they hook alot better. So if they are fairly new that may be a issue. When I was running NA with my old 3,200 stall, I pulled a best of 1.70 on Nitto's. So they do work decently. I still stick to my post above.

 

Good question... I'm taking notes right along with ya.

Looks like I'm gonna be spending some money with BMR cause my 60's are shameful too..... anyone remember where Elba is?



-Mindgame