Your right and I'm not. I was specifically commenting on the vernerability and potential of the cam in question - CC306

 

How did the performance world ever exist before AI or LE...or the stupid three letter acrynom for everything....BER...LE1...LE2...AI5...

These guys are popular in the LT1 world...do they do good work...sure, but just because another shop is doing work does not mean these other shops are going to produce ****.

That aside....

Ask yourself...what octane gas do you want to run and what can you run? This would be how I determine what compression ratio to run.

How do you like your cars to drive....street manners? Do you like having good brakes? Do you want the car to sputter and drive poorly under X rpm?

Do not get stuck on how much "power" you want....a peak number means squat. I would rather have less peak power and a better torque curve...the car would run better and be more enjoyable without having to rev it to death to get performance out of it.

And be cautious...the internet is full of a bunch of experts....I built 6 LT1 in the last decade....tried many cams....tried many things....alot of the things I tried I got from here were complete bull****.....keep that in mind. Does that make me an expert...no way...but to some guy that simply bought parts and had someone do the work for him...I have more experience.

 

Well put. Finally on optimist on this thread.

 

Guys, I do appreciate all your feedback, dont get me wrong. It just seems like most are quick to condemn the set up and say "no way" and if thats the case, thats fine. I asked if would make 500 at the motor, if not, thats cool. If you think 475, 450, 425...I'm fine with that...just thought I had a "decent" set up that may be close to 500...

 

Change your combo, wat you have listed will not cut it.

Go ahead and scrap this ****:

Eagle Connecting Rods 6.0
Ported And Polished LT1 Heads Gasket Matched
Resurfaced Heads (010)
Three Angle Valve Job
CC306 Camshaft (230/245 - 1.6RR=544/577 total lift)
Ported Intake Manifold Gasket Matched
52MM Throttle Body
Accel 36# Injectors
PCM For Less Custom ECM

Your going to need alot of stuff, you will first of all need some good heads, either LE or get some proven/tested heads RESEARCH IT! , on intakes, Id rather see either a proven LT4 PORTED intake or an Edelbrock PORTED LT4 intake to make some good power. Your gonna need bigger valves in watever heads you get. You will need poly locks to lock down the rockers so you wont be adjusting them all the time, this will really help when you get a bigger cam, the cc306 is a good cam for a mild street car but if you wanting to make 500 RWHP, id go with a custom grind cam or give the CC468 a try, I have this cam in my 388. You will have to toss those 36#ers for some 42#ers atleast, you will run out of fuel if you dont, go get some lucas ones for Racetronix. As mentioned, with the HV oil pump, your gonna need atleast a 7qt pan to hold all of that oil, why? youll suck the thing dry if you dont. You will also need to add a double roller timing set, id recommend GMHP. 58MM TB to pull all that air, and on a 350, get a pcm, or get a mail order tune, but if your gonna go wild on it, get a personal dyno tune to squeeze out all of the power and get your money out of this beast. And do yourself a favor, get 5.7" rods. And I make 12.1:1. Thats my input......... built my 388 LT1 and did the research, i have experience with this kind of thing, but listen to everyone, they are telling you wat you will need.

Your current setup i believe wouldnt run very good, you wont make much power due to robbing your car of fuel, sucking the pan dry, and just basically not having much air flow, why have a stroker that would be just as fast, if not slower than a 350 with your mods. Id recommend if your gonna use that setup, go 355 to get the most out of it.

 

What you seem to think is "crap" is what most of these guys recommend or are using. "Longer rods also travel further distance for the same amount of degrees, so the rod puts less side load on the up/down travel of the piston (since the distance is the same with the same crank, the longer rod travels less degrees. That puts less side load on the block wall). It's another theory that is suppose to free up all possible power. The reason they make pistons to correct the extra .3" is so your piston does not hit your head. If your piston is already flat with the deck, and you add .3" to the stroke your piston is going to hit the head, and with a lot of force (short answer, it's bad). So if they have a piston that sits the wrist up .3" it now corrects for the extra .3" of the rod, and now the piston is still flat with the deck." "On some cranks you need more rod length to clear the counterweights, common in BBC stuff that is internally balanced. The big deal with the weight is that the piston will be smaller in a longer rod setup, so the total mass will go down because even though the rod gains a few grams the piston loses more than the rod gains.

Bret"

Explain how any three angle valve job is crap?
There are several threads on here of 355s and strokers running in running 400-440rwhp using a cc306.
If im using aftermarket heads or ported stock heads LE and and AI still recommend porting the intake.
52mm throttle body I can see being debatable
Both PCMforLess and MadZ28 recommend at least a 32# injector and I would be using 36#
PCMforLess seems to be the most popular and respected LT1 tuner so why should I not use him?

Now, all the counterpoints to your "crap" list I just brought to your attention are not by me...its what came up on this board by the guys whom have tried it or by some of the actual vendors on this site. Believe me, I dont know that much about this. Most of it I copied and pasted it here. Some of these answers are from emails responses by LE, AI and Bryan Herter.

 

linky...

couple posts down from this one....417rwhp LT1 383.

with a 20% drivetrain loss that's exactly 500rwhp. with a little more cam and heads you should be all set.

Lloyd is the man

 

well throw wat you have listed together and see how it performs, put $100 on it that it runs like ****.

 

FWIW, only a very loose race converter (4,000+ stall) is going to show a 20% drivetrain loss.

Rich

 

Silverzz28 on this board at one point in his cars evolution had almost this EXACT combo in his car...at 3700 lbs it ran in the mid elevens. If memory serves he had some OLD GTP heads, stock ported intake, 58Mm TB, Hooker headers, GTP6 cam(very close to a comp 306) a 4L60E and a 3.73 gear. On a 100 shot it ran 10.80. But hell this was 7 years ago.

Don't be so quick to judge, his combo is basically sound. Just needs a little tweaking. Take it easy on him, he came here for ADVICE, not a thrashing.


Be careful though, a zero deck 383 with a flat top piston is gonna have lots of compression with a stock head casting, look that over well.


David

 

Finally someone said it. I'm not putting knocking those guys as they can put out some nice combos...but on this forum it seems if you aren't running one of those guys parts your setup is crap. The lt1 is basically a reverse cooled SBC with a funky distributor. There are TONS of very successful guys in the small block chevy world that can build you a very potent LT1.

That being said. Your combination looks good for a fun street/strip car. If your looking for 500 rwhp a good bit of changes will need to be made. If your looking for a 500fwhp setup you may get close with that setup but some tweeks would need to be made.

 

I guess if thats the case then you need to pay up $100 to each of the guys who just responded.

I'm not trying to argue. You do bring up some valid points which I will consider. But most of what you have said goes against what most are saying on the board. If it doesnt make 500hp, fine. I just thought what I had "may" be close to it. Another point I should mention is that this is not a track car, although it may see the track on a saturday night for fun, its primarily a street car/my fun car.

 

First off, thanks for understanding my point. It is almost strictly a fun street car. Mostly something to keep up with the "Jonses" such as supercharged Cobras, LS2s, LS7s, EVO's, STI's...etc. I know its against the norm but, yeah, I was looking at flywheel numbers.

 

You might be close, I would guess closer to a solid 450-480 at the crank. However, you may want to reconsider the scat crank, I know some racers who hate SCAT parts, one sid they are pieces of **** made in China. (I know people have been ******* on your setup, but I'm not tryingto do that just mentioning what I've heard some racers say, they could be wrong) He's got some internals from a Scat motor on his wall from a race team he quit driving for cause they used scat parts. Just his opnion.

You are probably better off with a GM racing crank. But dude, one thing to keep in mind is that there are so many theories about the bet way to make power and each builder has their own techniques so to speak. you can talk to 2 guys about the same exact setup and you will get two very different opinions.

Another thing to keep in mind is that unless these folks on the forums are builders themselves, and experienced builders, as in they do it for a living, don't pay too much attention to their opinions. If you want real opinions call some engine shops, talk to professional builders.

Now before everyone get pissy, I'm not knocking you guys who did teh work yourself, I'm just saying that you figured out what worked well for a few applications and that's great, but you don't have teh experience and variety of combinations that a professional engine builder would have.

If that's the way the motor already is in your car, than what can you do? you'll spend thousands pulling the motor and reinstalling parts. If the motor is out then talk to a builder and see what they recommend. A lot of this performance world is opinions and biases. Just like we chose Chevy, builders choose certain ways of doing things they like, some are right, some are wrong, and some are more right, but its really hard for laymens like us to tell.

The only surefire way to know exactly what your setup should get you is to copy proven successful builds, unless you happen to be an engineer yourself.

And that's all just my OPINION.