440 is so close!
#1
440 is so close!
So far the big inch small block project has worked out great. It's almost go time, just a few loose ends to button up, but I serve out of state so I cant be around to finish things up as much as I'd like, unfortunately.
I have gotten a few PM's about putting in a 400 or aftermarket based small block in place of an LT1, using LT1 injection, so I wanted to update I decided since I had most of the parts, I should build an 'experimental' engine based on parts I pulled off the shelf. So far things have come together nicely. Here is the latest engine, and as soon as I see it as a success, and as soon as I verify the PCM can handle it, a more crazy one will go in it's place. This one is more of a 'budget' build My current 382 ci LT1 is on it's way out to a friends stock '95 Z.
small block chevy, 440 cubic inches
factory 2 bolt 509 block, 2 bolt main (studded) 4.185" bore
sonic checked @ .300 between cyls, thinnest spot .190".
hardbloked. Most areas check around .250" thick.
plugged deck, crank scraper and baffle.
windage tray with ARP main studs
Eagle 4" internal crank, 6" stroker clearanced rods
mildly ported Dart Pro 1 230 heads, Manley 2.08/1.6 valves
Comp 242/248 duration cam, 113 LSA
Comp 977 valvesprings, trick flow pushrods and comp timing set
machined and welded LT1 timing cover with block adapter
electric water pump with spacers
LT1 crank hub and damper
sbc 400 flywheel
Accel Proram single plane EFI intake manifold, home ported
intakeelbows.com adapter and 58mm Edelbrock TB
all I need is to find some 1 7/8" headers, custom fab another 3" dual exhaust setup (this time I will use ovular pipe) and find someone willing to give me a tune!!!
So far all of the issues have been worked out. If I can I will try to get the engine install complete by this Nov. I'm not looking into buying a super expensive set of headers, right now I'm considering making my own longtubes for this thing...
and I still have a 10 bolt so I wont be able to dyno it or even lay into it yet...I'm all bass ackwards lol
The anticipation is so thick here I can almost taste it... I wanna go on leave and finish it!!!
I have gotten a few PM's about putting in a 400 or aftermarket based small block in place of an LT1, using LT1 injection, so I wanted to update I decided since I had most of the parts, I should build an 'experimental' engine based on parts I pulled off the shelf. So far things have come together nicely. Here is the latest engine, and as soon as I see it as a success, and as soon as I verify the PCM can handle it, a more crazy one will go in it's place. This one is more of a 'budget' build My current 382 ci LT1 is on it's way out to a friends stock '95 Z.
small block chevy, 440 cubic inches
factory 2 bolt 509 block, 2 bolt main (studded) 4.185" bore
sonic checked @ .300 between cyls, thinnest spot .190".
hardbloked. Most areas check around .250" thick.
plugged deck, crank scraper and baffle.
windage tray with ARP main studs
Eagle 4" internal crank, 6" stroker clearanced rods
mildly ported Dart Pro 1 230 heads, Manley 2.08/1.6 valves
Comp 242/248 duration cam, 113 LSA
Comp 977 valvesprings, trick flow pushrods and comp timing set
machined and welded LT1 timing cover with block adapter
electric water pump with spacers
LT1 crank hub and damper
sbc 400 flywheel
Accel Proram single plane EFI intake manifold, home ported
intakeelbows.com adapter and 58mm Edelbrock TB
all I need is to find some 1 7/8" headers, custom fab another 3" dual exhaust setup (this time I will use ovular pipe) and find someone willing to give me a tune!!!
So far all of the issues have been worked out. If I can I will try to get the engine install complete by this Nov. I'm not looking into buying a super expensive set of headers, right now I'm considering making my own longtubes for this thing...
and I still have a 10 bolt so I wont be able to dyno it or even lay into it yet...I'm all bass ackwards lol
The anticipation is so thick here I can almost taste it... I wanna go on leave and finish it!!!
#2
Jeremy Formato is pretty much the prefered tuner in the state. And you can dyno it with a 10 bolt, I was at 500/550 to the wheels on spray for a few months and even made a few 1/4 passes and my rear end held.... somehow
#3
Well if he could do a basic tune so I can start it up that would be great, but I'm sure as weird as this thing is, it'll be ard to get that close without having it on the dyno.
This way I can make sure there are no issues, give it an initial run in, then when I can get more stabilized (moving soon), I can get it further tuned on the dyno.
This way I can make sure there are no issues, give it an initial run in, then when I can get more stabilized (moving soon), I can get it further tuned on the dyno.
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