I know this probably has been beaten to death but.. Does going to 4.10's put alot more stress on the already brittle 10 bolt? I dont ever plan on running anything more then street tires and the OEM clutch until I can afford a 12 bolt, but I dont want to regear this thing if I'm going to risk granading my rear. I dont beat the **** out of the car yet I do take it to the track from time to time.. What do you guys think?

TIA
Craig

 

I've been wondering the same thing. I wonder if 3.73s would be a better choice for such a weak rear end? But then, 3.42s to 3.73s doesnt really seem to be enough of a change to warrant the money spent. I havent even priced a 12 bolt yet, but then again I dont even want to think about how much it'll cost.

What to do, what to do.

 

my 4.10s are holding out just fine *knock on wood* but they do put more stress on it. Just dont launch too hard and you should be fine.

 

Exactly what I'm thinking, is going from 3.42s to 3.73's really worth all that work.. I think its either 4.10's or nothing.. I would bet till its all said an done, its at least $2500 to swap a 12 bolt in..

 

$2500?!? Thats WAY beyond my budget!

Now say the 10 bolt with 4.10s inside decides to explode... I wonder how much it would cost to rebuild it? Is it possible to strengthen the 10 bolt?

There has to be a cheaper alternative to a $2500 rear end.

 

Personally I think 4.10s are easier on the differential than stock gears. The increased gear reduction is puts less load on the gears, kinda like starting up the car in first gear instead of third. the clutch will not last as long if you're always starting up in 3rd gear. People tend to think 4.10s are weaker, but most of the guys with different gear ratios are also making salot more power.

The most you can do to the stock rear end is get 4.11s instead of 4.10s, get a stronger posi unit, get a solid pinion spacer and a differential girdle.

 

Whats the difference in 4.11's from 4.10's? Not being a smart a$$ or anything, seriously whats the difference?

 

That's exactly what I did when I installed my 4:10's and its held up fine to 60+ hard launches. I have an SLP clutch, grabs stronger than stock but doesnt hit that hard. With a hard hitting clutch the rear probably wouldnt have survived until now. I'm actually not sure if mine were 4:10's or 4:11's, bought the gears used and didnt know the difference at the time. I'll have to count the teeth next time I change the fluid and see, I'm really curious.

Importeater, 41/10 is 4:10's (# of ring/pinion teeth) , 37/9 is 4:11's if I remember right.

 

4.11s have fewer teeth

4.10 = 41 teeth on ring gear, 10 on pinion
4.11 = 37 teeth on ring gear, 9 on pinion

Fewer teeth on the same size gear makes them bigger. On my webpage I have a picture of the 2 gears next to each other.
Some may argue that fewer teeth means less contact between the 2 gears so they are infact weaker but if that was so, GM Motive would not have stopped making 4.10s infavor of 4.11s. Besides, I've broken 4.10s on the street with only 330rwhp and street tires, I have yet to break my 4.11s and thats with 400+rwhp and dumping the clutch from 3000rpm with 15x10 drag radials.

 

You can buy a 12 bolt for $2000.

 

I asked Motive about the difference between the 4.10 and 4.11 gears. Grease has it exactly right. Funny thing is that if you order them, you could get either. They told me that it depends on which factory they're cut at whether you get the 41:10 or the 37:9. To them, they are the same. I got the 4.11's in mine.

 

I have 4.10s in an other wise [pretty much] stock car... I dont know how long theyve been in there, but lighting up the tires once in a while doesnt seem to bother it.

 

Great info thanks!! I can't seem to find any 4.11's that are 7 5/8 only in 7 1/2", does this matter? It still says for an 82-02 Camaro, will either work? Any suggestions on where to get them from?

Thanks again for you help!
Craig