LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

396 rod bolt issues....

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Old Feb 7, 2004 | 01:15 AM
  #1  
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396 rod bolt issues....

I went with the L19 rod bolts and my engine builder said he couldn't get them to clear the pan w/o a ton of work and using double gaskets. The guy who did my motor has had many other issues and left MANY leaks on this motor which I must now fix.

I used the following
3.875 Scat forged crank
Eagle H beam 5.85 rods
JE Pistons
Eagle L19 rod bolts
Canton 15-242T pan

He also cut and welded on the pan alot to try and get it to clear the bolts.

Has anybody got these rod bolts to work in a 396?

If I have to step down does anyone have the ARP 2000 series part # for these rods (or what should I use)?

Since I had to take the timng cover off and seal the WP shaft hole he left leaking I'm now forced to pull the pan and want to fix all this stuff in one shot.

Thanks guys!!

Mike
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:15 AM
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I never had them side by side. But is there any difference in the dimensions between the L19 and the ARP2000 rod bolts? The problem is more likely the rods. I have seen clearance issues with Eagle H-beams on 383's, so a problem on a 396 doesn't surprise me.

For the benefit of others: the best mid-priced rod that I have seen wrt stroker clearance is the Lunati Pro Mod and the Oliver forged. At the hgh end, Oliver billet. Oliver will clearance the "shoulder" of the rod on one side if you order specifically for a stroker. Another FYI: the problems mt is having is one reason I prefer a 383 to 396, but no one seems to listen to this. They are solvable, but a PITA. The effort/cost is not worth the 16ci, IMHO.

Rich Krause
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:18 AM
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Had I known what I know now a 383 would have been built, unfortunatley it's too late for that and the 396 has been on the road (leaking badly) and performs well. I just need to get this oil pan to seal...

Somebody also mentioned a possible thicker than normal oil pan gasket set, is this true as I can't find anything on the web.
Mike
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:29 AM
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It might be a better option to look into an aftermarket oil pan for clearance. Something like a Canton pan would probably clear a little better than the stocker.

I agree with you Rich, but only cause I couldn't get a 396 assembly with 9:1 compression without buying expensive AFR heads.
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:32 AM
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Please read my list on the motor - already bought and heavily modified the 242-T

Mike
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:32 AM
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Originally posted by mtxpert
Had I known what I know now a 383 would have been built, unfortunatley it's too late for that and the 396 has been on the road (leaking badly) and performs well. I just need to get this oil pan to seal...

Somebody also mentioned a possible thicker than normal oil pan gasket set, is this true as I can't find anything on the web.
Mike
It's possible to double up oil pan gaskets. No sure what is causing your clearance issue and therefore if this will help though. There has to be enough K-memeber clearance, and as many times as I have been under my car I can't exactly visualize it? But that souldn't be a problem.

The 383 v. 396 comment was not a dig. Just an FYI for those contemplating a stroker. I just did a new motor and thought this through again, came up with 383 again. However, I am forced induction and the cubes really aren't the limiting factor in power output with FI, so maybe I am biased.

Rich Krause
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:34 AM
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Why are others up so early? Is stroker clearance really that fascinating?

Rich
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:35 AM
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I'm working my first grave shift filling in for a guy.
I don't have a choice as it's 2:35 AM here...

Mike
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:38 AM
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Originally posted by mtxpert

I'm working my first grave shift filling in for a guy.
I don't have a choice as it's 2:35 AM here...

Mike
I've been insomniac ever since med school and residency messed up my circadian rhythm

Rich
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:38 AM
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Also the builder installed double pan gaskets and about 1/4" of RTV between front and rear of motor and pan to fill the gap.

It's blowing oil out the side of the motor by the dipstick, since he welded on the pan I'm thinking it also might be a pinhole leak through that.

I'll pull the headers and look some more prior to deciding on doing the rod bolts etc. I just want to fix the leak on the side and the timing cover leak in one shot and just enjoy it...



Mike
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:41 AM
  #11  
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Originally posted by mtxpert
Also the builder installed double pan gaskets and about 1/4" of RTV between front and rear of motor and pan to fill the gap.

It's blowing oil out the side of the motor by the dipstick, since he welded on the pan I'm thinking it also might be a pinhole leak through that.

I'll pull the headers and look some more prior to deciding on doing the rod bolts etc. I just want to fix the leak on the side and the timing cover leak in one shot and just enjoy it...



Mike
Hey: I didn't know that was your nitrous jet calculator. I like it! Nice work

Rich
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 03:43 AM
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Thanks Rich!
Now if I could just get a pass or two on nitrous to validate this 396.
I went 12.9@106.9 on street tires with a 1.95 60' and bad posi...

Hoping to get mid to low 12's on motor soon and some high 10's on a 200 to 250 shot.


Mike
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 05:17 AM
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Sorry I overlooked your oil pan Mike. Gets a little crazy here sometimes.

I'm only up cause I'm at work. I work every Wednesday through Saturday from 9 pm to 7:30 am. When it isn't crazy there isn't much else to do.

I wasn't trying to jab at ya Rich, I really do respect your opinions since you've been at this for a bit longer than I.
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