I was curious to know why not many people build a 396 stroker? I just got done building a 383 stroker and I am ready for another project, next in mind being a 396. Is it too much stress on the block? If so, what is there that I can do to help prevent an overload of stress and what can I do to make a 396 stroker more reliable?

 

I love my 396, but knowledge people says that is better to stay in 383.

 

I would say most people do not build them due to the added cost(s) involved normally outweighing the benefit.

Big concerns are A: You run into way more clearance issues with a 3.875in stroke. You have to take a decent amount of material out of the block in risky areas, i.e. near water jackets.

Also, depending on how you get to the 396ci mark, I used a 6.0 rod, which limited my piston choice...due to the CH being so small. I ended up with exactly what I needed, I just had to go through Diamond to get it.

Also, I am very happy I went with the 396.

Hope this helps.

 

As parts availability has improved your seeing more of these being done. My "shop" assured me that clearancing the block should not be a problem, nor should there be clearance problems with the cam.
The only added expense I've run into are the custom piston, but that is because I'm doing a blower motor.
Today it should be no more expensive than an NA 383ci.

 

the block should be sonically checked(sp).

 

What added cost?

 

For starters how about the $900 pistons it took to achieve 1.062 ch with a 34cc inverted dome.

Also, there was over 6hrs of labor involved in clearancing the oil pan rails, bottom of the cylinders, and the rods (full base circle camshaft). Longer than a 383 would have required.

You could potentially avoid these costs by using a shorter rod, a rod with more clearance, and a small base circle cam. However, I already had a 3.875in crank, rods, and cam sitting on my floor that I would have taken a huge loss on.

I'm not trying to argue that its impossible to build a 396 for the same or less as a 383. Just letting someone know I ran into some added costs going the 396 route. Perhaps, they might run into the same problems I ran into. If thats the case, they might be able to save some coin by not making the same mistakes, or adjusting their parts "wish list".

-Andrew

 

Understood, but as you already said that's not going to be the case with everyone if they plan accordingly. Even a block stroked to a 383 will need clearencing. I too have a 396. I used Compstar 6" rods and the shop had no issues w/ clearencing. I'm using a small base circle cam. My pistons had to be custom made so they were a bit more expensive, but that had to do with using my set of LPE heads which have a 58cc chamber and I didn't want to get super crazy on the compression since it's a street car.
Ultimately the cost between the two rotating assy's and machining are extremely comperable.

 

Agreed. I made the mistake of changing my mind halfway through the build. Won't happen to everyone, but happens a lot to me .

 

where did you buy the 396 rotating kit ? I want all forged and 6 " rods with 10.5 to 11.0 C.R.

 

Doesnt Golen make a 396 short block and long block for the LT1??

http://www.golenengineservice.com/sp...l/396_520.html


How good are these setups and is the cost worth doing it this way?? My friend almost went this route when he did his 383.

 

Why so low on the compression?

 

Can't you guys go more then 396 cubes, or is that about it? 396 just seems small these days somewhat......

I thought I saw a 409 LTx a few years ago?

 

Yes you can go bigger but WHY. Performance wise the 383 works, blind faith in displacement has lead a lot of guys to spend a lot of money for little return.

An engine is a whole package, it all has to work and you are going to be hard pressed to find data to support a 396 LT1 working better than a 383.