383cid long block is almost ready
383cid long block is almost ready
Hello; in these day I will get my long block engine.I sold my engine,and I should get everything.I have only intake parts like 58mm TB,MAF..
-Is anything missed or wrong let me know please?
-Also what should I expect about hp at flywheel and at rear wheels ?¿
BTW: Car is 97 Z28 6-speed D&D Viper specs Transmission, and a few weeks later I will get 12 Bolt rear end..
Block: Billet splayed 4 Bolt main caps
Crank: Lunati Forged 3.750" stroke
Rods: Oliver Billet I-Beam 6.00" Length
Pistons: Diamond Pistons Forged Flat Top -5cc Valve Reliefs 4.030"
Rings: Diamond Pro Selected 4.030 Bore 1/16" - 1/16" - 3/16"
Bearings: Clevite & federal Mogul
Head & Main Studs: ARP performance
Core Plugs: Brass Pioneer
Heads: AFR 210cc Competition package CNC Ported (288cfm @.600)
Guide plates: AFR 5/16"
Springs: AFR 160lbs with AFR titanium retainers and locks
Lifters: CC 'R' lifters
Rev kit: AFR hydra rev kit
Pushroads: CC Hi-Tech One-Piece Chromemoly
Rocker Arms: CC Non Self Aligning Pro-Magnum 7/16" stud 1.60" ratio
Rocker Arm Studs: CC 7/16" Magnum Stud
Camshaft: CC 237/245dur. 584/579lift 113lsa (for nitrous)
Timing Set: GM Extreme Duty Timing Set
Timing Cover: GM Timing Cover
Crank Sproket: Oversized Crank Sproket for use GM extreme Duty Timing Set
Other Components:
*GM LT4 intake Manifold (Bored for 58mm TB and Gasket matched to AFRs)
*Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gaskets
*ARP 12 Point Intake Bolts
*Melling High Volume Oil Pump
*Canton Oil Pan
*Racetronix Fuel System with 255LPH High-Pressure Fuel Pump and Series II plug & play Wiring Harness
*Delphy 37lb high impedence injectors
*Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator
*Hypertech Fuel Pressure Gauge
*PCM reprogramming 96-97 year Models (custom programming match to engine)
*GM optispark distributor
*MSD replacement cap & rotor
*MSD Spark plug wires, Super conductor 8.5mm
*NGK TR6 Spark Plugs
*Polished Aluminum Valve Cover
*ATI SFI Approved Hub & Damper
*160 degree thermostat
*Mcleod Street Twin Clutch with Aluminum Flywheel
*Adjustable Master & Slave cylinders
*Pro 5.0 Shifter
-Is anything missed or wrong let me know please?
-Also what should I expect about hp at flywheel and at rear wheels ?¿
BTW: Car is 97 Z28 6-speed D&D Viper specs Transmission, and a few weeks later I will get 12 Bolt rear end..
Block: Billet splayed 4 Bolt main caps
Crank: Lunati Forged 3.750" stroke
Rods: Oliver Billet I-Beam 6.00" Length
Pistons: Diamond Pistons Forged Flat Top -5cc Valve Reliefs 4.030"
Rings: Diamond Pro Selected 4.030 Bore 1/16" - 1/16" - 3/16"
Bearings: Clevite & federal Mogul
Head & Main Studs: ARP performance
Core Plugs: Brass Pioneer
Heads: AFR 210cc Competition package CNC Ported (288cfm @.600)
Guide plates: AFR 5/16"
Springs: AFR 160lbs with AFR titanium retainers and locks
Lifters: CC 'R' lifters
Rev kit: AFR hydra rev kit
Pushroads: CC Hi-Tech One-Piece Chromemoly
Rocker Arms: CC Non Self Aligning Pro-Magnum 7/16" stud 1.60" ratio
Rocker Arm Studs: CC 7/16" Magnum Stud
Camshaft: CC 237/245dur. 584/579lift 113lsa (for nitrous)
Timing Set: GM Extreme Duty Timing Set
Timing Cover: GM Timing Cover
Crank Sproket: Oversized Crank Sproket for use GM extreme Duty Timing Set
Other Components:
*GM LT4 intake Manifold (Bored for 58mm TB and Gasket matched to AFRs)
*Fel-Pro Intake Manifold Gaskets
*ARP 12 Point Intake Bolts
*Melling High Volume Oil Pump
*Canton Oil Pan
*Racetronix Fuel System with 255LPH High-Pressure Fuel Pump and Series II plug & play Wiring Harness
*Delphy 37lb high impedence injectors
*Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator
*Hypertech Fuel Pressure Gauge
*PCM reprogramming 96-97 year Models (custom programming match to engine)
*GM optispark distributor
*MSD replacement cap & rotor
*MSD Spark plug wires, Super conductor 8.5mm
*NGK TR6 Spark Plugs
*Polished Aluminum Valve Cover
*ATI SFI Approved Hub & Damper
*160 degree thermostat
*Mcleod Street Twin Clutch with Aluminum Flywheel
*Adjustable Master & Slave cylinders
*Pro 5.0 Shifter
Re: 383cid long block is almost ready
Do you already have the piston? Are the "nitrous" specific design? The 6.00" rods and "nitrous" pistons can be a mismatch, if they've correctly lowered the ring pack on the pistons. The small compression height with the 6.00" rods can put the wrist pin way up into the ring pack.
As far as I know, no one has been able to buy an MSD Opti cap/rotor, even though they have been advertising them for about a year. Why not consider the Delteq or the LTCC setups, rather than sticking with the high voltage section of the Opti. Those of us who have removed the high voltage function from the Opti have eliminated most of the problems the Opti has.
I'm not a fan of a high volume oil pump. Most people have good results with a standard volume stock (or similar Melling) pump, but with the high pressure relief cspring installed, the pump blueprinted and the pickup tack welded.
Why do you need "Oversized Crank Sproket for use GM extreme Duty Timing Set"? Have you already identified a problem with crank to cam spacing?
The LT4 intake manifold needs wayyyyyy more than "gasket matching" to flow well. ITs really no different than a stock LT1 intake when you look at the runners. To flow well, and support a good set of heads, it needs a lot of work.
As far as I know, no one has been able to buy an MSD Opti cap/rotor, even though they have been advertising them for about a year. Why not consider the Delteq or the LTCC setups, rather than sticking with the high voltage section of the Opti. Those of us who have removed the high voltage function from the Opti have eliminated most of the problems the Opti has.
I'm not a fan of a high volume oil pump. Most people have good results with a standard volume stock (or similar Melling) pump, but with the high pressure relief cspring installed, the pump blueprinted and the pickup tack welded.
Why do you need "Oversized Crank Sproket for use GM extreme Duty Timing Set"? Have you already identified a problem with crank to cam spacing?
The LT4 intake manifold needs wayyyyyy more than "gasket matching" to flow well. ITs really no different than a stock LT1 intake when you look at the runners. To flow well, and support a good set of heads, it needs a lot of work.
Re: 383cid long block is almost ready
Originally Posted by Injuneer
Do you already have the piston? Are the "nitrous" specific design? The 6.00" rods and "nitrous" pistons can be a mismatch, if they've correctly lowered the ring pack on the pistons. The small compression height with the 6.00" rods can put the wrist pin way up into the ring pack.
As far as I know, no one has been able to buy an MSD Opti cap/rotor, even though they have been advertising them for about a year. Why not consider the Delteq or the LTCC setups, rather than sticking with the high voltage section of the Opti. Those of us who have removed the high voltage function from the Opti have eliminated most of the problems the Opti has.
I'm not a fan of a high volume oil pump. Most people have good results with a standard volume stock (or similar Melling) pump, but with the high pressure relief cspring installed, the pump blueprinted and the pickup tack welded.
Why do you need "Oversized Crank Sproket for use GM extreme Duty Timing Set"? Have you already identified a problem with crank to cam spacing?
The LT4 intake manifold needs wayyyyyy more than "gasket matching" to flow well. ITs really no different than a stock LT1 intake when you look at the runners. To flow well, and support a good set of heads, it needs a lot of work.
As far as I know, no one has been able to buy an MSD Opti cap/rotor, even though they have been advertising them for about a year. Why not consider the Delteq or the LTCC setups, rather than sticking with the high voltage section of the Opti. Those of us who have removed the high voltage function from the Opti have eliminated most of the problems the Opti has.
I'm not a fan of a high volume oil pump. Most people have good results with a standard volume stock (or similar Melling) pump, but with the high pressure relief cspring installed, the pump blueprinted and the pickup tack welded.
Why do you need "Oversized Crank Sproket for use GM extreme Duty Timing Set"? Have you already identified a problem with crank to cam spacing?
The LT4 intake manifold needs wayyyyyy more than "gasket matching" to flow well. ITs really no different than a stock LT1 intake when you look at the runners. To flow well, and support a good set of heads, it needs a lot of work.
Firstly thanks for your long reply..
1) I will not use a big shot nitrous.So I tought its not necessary to build engine for nitrous.I picked a cam with wider LSA to prevent any problem if I spray.
2) MSD cap & rotor was my machine shop choice. I know nothing about it..
3) Yes I know lots of people recommend to go stock, but what would be happen?
4) No lol
he (my engine builder) identified a problem, and choosed to go with sproket.. 5) Ohh yes I don't want to loose lots of flow numbers because of my intake, but when I told this he said Victor Jr or something intake will be better for race.. My car will be street/strip car, but mostly street..
What do you think? Can I see +450 rwhp?? I spent lots of $$$
BTW: In the future I will get a blower for that reason I built a high quality rotating assembly.
Re: 383cid long block is almost ready
On the oil pump, nothing would "happen". It would work fine. Stock pump with high pressure spring, and stock oil pan have successfully supported LT1 strokers up to 1,125HP. I'm running the stock oil pump/pan with a 300-shot of nitrous.
On the LT4 manifold, a Victor Jr is a major undertaking (conversion to reverse flow cooling required), and mainly for exceptionally high output NA engines. The LT4 is a good choice, but not if all you do is "gasket match". It needs work to flow well. It isn't going to support those AFR heads with only a gasket match.
If you plan to add a blower, you've got the wrong pistons and the wrong compression ratio. You're going to have to tear it down and make changes to run a blower. With both nitrous and a blower, you may want more than an 8-degree spread on the cam for exhaust duration. And maybe an even larger LSA.
On the LT4 manifold, a Victor Jr is a major undertaking (conversion to reverse flow cooling required), and mainly for exceptionally high output NA engines. The LT4 is a good choice, but not if all you do is "gasket match". It needs work to flow well. It isn't going to support those AFR heads with only a gasket match.
If you plan to add a blower, you've got the wrong pistons and the wrong compression ratio. You're going to have to tear it down and make changes to run a blower. With both nitrous and a blower, you may want more than an 8-degree spread on the cam for exhaust duration. And maybe an even larger LSA.
Re: 383cid long block is almost ready
Originally Posted by Injuneer
If you plan to add a blower, you've got the wrong pistons and the wrong compression ratio. You're going to have to tear it down and make changes to run a blower. With both nitrous and a blower, you may want more than an 8-degree spread on the cam for exhaust duration. And maybe an even larger LSA.
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