Mobil 1

 

Ok but then my statements still stand you need to research the oil to know truely what weight it is M1 30wts. are very close too 20wts. whereas Amsoil 30wts. run closer to 40wt. as does the German made Castol. The numbers on the bottle just mean it falls into a range and the range is wide enough for a motor too prefer one end of it over the other. The LT1 likes thick 30 to low 40 and I would encourage anyone using sytnetic to do some reading on extended drains. The 3K rule is badly outdated, it was set when carbs were fuel loading the oil and making carbon, machining was poor mechanical fans slowed warmup and oils were not as good. That is why many vehicles come with change oil lights that will not light till 5-7500 under most usage the OEMs are even telling you in the owners manual that up to 7500 is safe on dino(10 years ago imagine todays cleaner engines and better oils) as long as the usage is not severe. The change oil lights are not oil monitors really but more track your usage cold starts high revs etc. contribute too when it will light up it can not measure dirt.

 

These are pretty much my thoughts as well. I run M1 0W-40 and I still change it every 3K miles. Even though I'm sure the oil is still perfectly fine, I change it anyways. I beat the s**t out of my car every day, and with the 160 stat I'm sure condensation in the oil can become an issue rather quickly, especially in these cold temperatures. I keep tabs on my oil pressure every time I drive the car, and things look peachy. I can understand how everyone wants to find the oil that will protect their engine to the umpteen-millionth degree, but at what point does it really matter all that much? I'm not trying to say that anyone is wrong for researching this or wondering about it, as I myself have tried many different oils in many different cars and read probably every single oil thread on this site. I'm just curious as to why there is so much debate and splitting hairs over this stuff?

 

Depends on the use. For the most part, I agree with your sentiment for most peoples' use. But it's important for some people to "use the best" even when their needs may not require it, and there's nothing wrong with that. This hobby is about having fun and that means different things to different people.

In my case, I put 850 racetrack miles on my car last summer. Around four hours of WOT operation (equivalent to well over 1000+ 1/4 mile passes) with oil temps reaching as high as 310 degrees on its way too the bearings before I finally got a cooler installed. So, I really think I do need the best or that rebuild will be coming sooner than it may have. That's why I worry about it.

 

I have to agree with 96capricemgr about the link he provided, I am a member there and it is full of EXTREMELY knowledgable people and great information. My next oil change with my LT1 I will be using the german castrol 0-30 with an oversized (3002) k&N filter. I have used Scheaffers 15w40 in the summer that gave GREAT results if you want PM me and ill give you a link to the wear numbers. Really I would try one of the suggested oils by one of the board members of that website and get the oil tested then if you want try another or stick with it if its good. ONe thing to consider is it takes a quite a few thousand miles to fully break the motor in so wear numbers may be missleading...

 

that was more directed toward the guy who was being a smartass, not you. i can definatly see your point of veiw, sorry for the confusion.

 

I apologize for the tone of the response, however I have read a few threads where you like to explicitly point out that you have phone numbers of real important people. Im not saying that you dont and youre full of it, Im simply saying that people would rather listen to real world results, which the oil board provides. And just to clarify, I dont know ANYONE smart, including myself, but, I like to read up and research stuff. And it seems like this German Castrol provides the best protection for an LT1. Not that Mobil 1 is bad, far from it, just that this might be a little better.

 

I can certainly understand your need for the best there is. Those are some very harsh conditions your engine has to endure! I have no doubt that the right oil is most likely the reason that your engine isn't in a million pieces. It just seems that lately EVERYONE is getting into heated debates about which oil is the absolute best, and I would wager that most of these vehicles are stock to mildly modified, like my own. As I said before, I have nothing against the pursuit of knowledge and protecting the cars that many of us have big $$$$ invested in. I'm definately going to take a look at theoildrop and check out the bb there to get some real information and see how the different oils are analyzed. I gues I'm just a little behind the times, as I've never had a problem with conventional oil of the proper viscosity that is changed on a regular basis. I'll read up on it.